OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Victa Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers VC-160 Restoration

I have found (once you manage to drill out the snapped bolt, and re-thread the hole) that if you put the puller on, and ad tension (not too much, just get the pressure on) then soak with WD-40 or Penetrene as Emmo mentioned, it should slowly come free using both Grumpy s method, and a suitable tire lever or long Flathead screw driver.

I.E.

WD-40, Wait, Apply Pressure, WD-40, Wait, Slightly up pressure, Insert lever under lip of flywheel, Slowly work your way around the flywheel, in 1cm steps, lighly tapping the lever with a hammer each time, WD-40, Wait, Bump puller, then go areound with the lever again, upping the pressure slightly each new lap.

thats a good point better off tracking down another one.
i didnt even notice the broken fins when i saw the pic.
id bin it

Thanks guys for sending in the helpful hints.None of which worked.That puppy was really stuck.So the ball pain hammer of destruction come out.

As you can see from pictures.Then very carefully used an angle grinder to make a grove into the center piece then carefully again with a cold cheisel cracked the centre piece.All in all minamal damage done and now I can service ignition and replace flywheel.

Sometimes you just have to be a bit rough to get the job done.Nothing else was working but at least I got there in the end.

ROFLMAO

reminds me of .........well me really

if it wont come apart break the f@%king thing and get another one [applies to almost everything really]

After I got it apart I could see that there was no way it was going to come off the way it should.The pin and the shaft had that much rust on it.I still have to clean a bit more rust of the shaft.So I guess it was the only way of getting it off.I was happy that the flywheel wasn't that good.Didn't have no problems in breaking it.I did when I had to do the same with a Model 2 Rotomo.That was very sad.A very good flywheel that one was.

Wow! I'm glad i chucked in that extra flywheel with it, i'd feel pretty crap right now otherwise, if you need any other parts (Key, Cam, etc.) let me know, i should have some here.

MMMM, Being a bit lazy here, (by not looking back at prior posts) but a crank case full of ice water or over night in the bait freezer and a gas burner around the flywheel centre the next day would have got that off I reckon...(sorry the fitter in me coming out). How's is the crank for tru now? bent? Might be a wrecker now...

That is what I was worried about to.Was pushing on the bore side wasn't keen on pushing the other side.With it being as stuck as it was it would have broken for sure.Ty thanks man I don't need a key for it as I have one here of the old sized motor.Not sure about the cam yet I haven't tried to remove it yet,still got rust to remove and lube the shaft before I do that. I did have to remove points and ignition plate when getting old flywheel centre off.Now I have no workshop manual so what are the points cap suppose to be and what is the best way to get the timing right?

Perhaps whip the plug out and spin her over, set something up to judge your eye against it, it wont have to be bent much to make it U/S....

Geez hope i never strike one that stubborn, i would bin it.


I wiggled one off by hand tonight. I think ive only ever threaded and pulled one. Usually a good soaking with WD40 and a couple of screwdrivers sorts them.


Dont hit the end of the crank with a hammer, i bought a tilt a cut that someone had damaged the crank thread on, was quoted $75 for a die nut. In the end the guy down at the mower shop let me bring the machine down and borrow his die nut to chase the thread. Did the nut up rather carefully and its never missed a beat since.

Hope you have better luck with the rest of it.

Bob, Briggs and Stratton say you should always put the flywheel retaining nut on the crankshaft thread while you pull the flywheel off the taper: it should be just on the thread for about three quarters of the nut's length. That way the flat plate puller bears on the top of the nut, not the end of the crankshaft. Once the flywheel has been pulled off the taper, you remove the flat plate puller, and the flywheel retaining nut, before you lift off the flywheel.

Ok, so for the timing, take the piston to TDC (top Dead Centre), then turn her aniti-clockwise, till the piston has moved down exactly 3mm from the TDC point.

Adjust the breaker plate so that the brakers are only just begining to open, tighten it up, then re-check your mesuremrents (begins open at 3mm from TDC, full Braker point gap is 0.685mm)

Hi fast grass no the shaft is not bent.It didn't receive blows to make it bend.Although I did have to destroy flywheel to remove it didn't get massive amount of force to do any damage.

Thanks for that Ty.Just going to have to buy a set of feeler gauges now can't seem to find my anywhere. In-fact when I sat and thought about it I don't think I've ever got them back from when I lent them to a friend back when we were in Batemans Bay some 4 years ago.Anyway you get that.

Have you found out yet what the proper colour green the vc should be?

Not yet, i have my cuttings now (i took a few samples from the inner side of the chute on a few scrap bases) and hopefully i will get to a paint shop this comming week.

Are you getting close to painting time?

Both bases are just about ready.Really just need a scuff over with some sand paper.Have the back flaps in a solution right now cleaning the paint off and neutralising the rust ( I hope I spelt that right).I will most likely run a steel brush underneath to get them a bit cleaner.So I guess if you don't find out what the colour is I might run the bases up to the paint shop.Maybe next week,but most likely the week after that.Both motors have been cleaned.I am going to paint the bores in black as they look (In places) rusty.Still having some problems in getting the heads clean enough.Again maybe a wire brush on the end of drill.Going to get some gumption to clean the other plastic parts down.Just started to work on repairing the catch(Wow that is looking like fun).All in all it is going along well.

What is the relationship between the VC and the VC Mustang?

Also, I have found another head, but it has numbers stamped into it.Does that mean anything?

Following the Run of the VC-160 & 125, the VC label was continued onto a few new mowers in 1973 (the VC-160 Was dropped) this was the replacement for the VC-160, the VC-Mustang, and the new Mid-Range, the VC-Sports.

The Mustang has had a number of different releases, the first few, 1973, 1974, 9175 and maybe 1976 it was labeled the VC-Mustang, later the VC was dropped, and it was called just Mustang.

The first one or two VC-Mustangs had the G3 Metal Carby, then it went to the G4 Plastic, the first of witch had it facing backwards to let the air hose in, the next year however, it was turned around, and a hole has made in the cowl to let the hose in on the other side.

if you are looking to go within the VC-range and make the full VC Family, i would start by tracking down the 1973 or 1974 VC-Mustang's, the ones with the metal carby.

Don't worry about putting to much effort into hunting for a VC-Mustang of the later times, with the plastic carby, they are fairly common, and one will crop up without to much effort.

Pop up some photo's of the head and I'll let you know if its good for the job.

I'm not sure about the bases, but i will look over the ones i have tonight.

You are looking for the mustang with the same air filter and throttle control as the VC-160 (in White)

The plastic carby uses the black one with the air filter and control in the same unit.

I'll try and dig up a photo for you.

I got it wrong it is the one with the decompression value.However it is a better head than the one for the mark 2.I don't want to put it on if it doesn't fit the era.Here are the pictures.


Don't know if you can read the number but it is 189

Looks normal, does the cup inside seem the same size and shape as the one it is replacing?

I don't know I haven't pulled the other off yet as I wasn't sure as to whether I was going change it,as I what them to be as original as they would have left the assembly line.

Hi Ty have a question for you.Do you have another VC-160 Mark II engine?I pulled the Mark II engine down that I got of you.It's not a good story.The rings are shot,the piston is scored and the bore would need to be re-bored.Bascilly it's about the same amount of work as the one I have here.The one it was replacing.You wouldn't have known what it would have been like unless you pulled it down to.I mean yes it is fixable but I didn't want to spend that kind of money on it.I guess that why it's here.





If you look on the right hand side you can see how the ring is thinner on that side.


Rust all over the inside of the crank.Would have to be cleaned off.So rust doesn't go through the rest of the engine.



Even after I cleaned this side you can still see the groves in the piston.All in all about the same size job as the one it was replacing.So if you have another Please I need it.All I can say is it has been a while since this was a running engine.My guess is it would have blown some smoke as well.Let me know how you get on.Thanks man

No worries, I will have a dig around and see what i can work out, naturally it's replacement will be free!

[Censored] your a good lad.I had my head in my hands when I seen it.Do you have another,that's what I'm worried about?I was going to give it the big clean tomorrow,and start the shine processes.Anyway I will have to find something else to do tomorrow.Any more ideas as to what I can do with the twin,it's still doing the same thing as before,being backwards that is.

I think i have one, I will have to see, but if i dont have another, i will get you one, I dont feel good selling something that cant be used (Wish i had had the time to give this a good look over)

Thanks Ty I appreciated your effort.I wished it wasn't such a big job either.I was looking forward to getting it back together and working again.

[Censored] I started to pull the VC-160 Mark II engine I had the one that came on the mower and [Censored].I got it down to the crank, con-rod,piston and bore.I stopped there not worth trying to separate.Though it into my small,but growing larger scrap pile.The only parts salvageable was head,crankcase (big big clean needed to be used)boss nut(for cutting disc),spring for carby,nuts and bolts.The rest is all throw away.Not a good start to the restore at all.If it was going as well as the VC-160 Mark I restore,I would be very happy.That is still going well engine is now together and ready to go.Need to work on the rest now.

Well, I have looked in the shed, and there is good and bad news, crank cases, pistons, heads, cranks, ignitions, con-rods for the MKII, no worries, the one thing i can't unearth is the Cylinder, apart from one that i fear is worse.

I will get everything i have to you asap, and as soon as i can get my hands on a good S70 MKII Cylinder, It's yours!

(Naturally, this gives you first priority to any S70 MKII Engines we find on our trip, if i cant get you one first)

Also, as for the dud engine, feel free to keep it if you like, and salvage what you can (I remember it having a good spark!)

Ok cool man.Do you know where I can get it bored out then.Really didn't want to go that way,but I may have too.