OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Tech Talk Toro 246H Crankshaft Pulley Removal

A slide puller is because with a screw puller you can not put the nose of that into the centre of the crank as you will damage the hole/thread.
If you put the bolt in, then use an old nut to go ove the point of the threaded shaft, hold both the head of the bolt and the nut with a spanner against a leg of the puller, you can use a threaded puller. All you have to watch is that the bolt you have screwed in has plenty of thread up in the crank, that you do not load it sideways and bend the bolt.


Cheers, bob.

its off now it was frozen onto the shaft i ended up having to heat and cool it a few times putting engine oil around the shaft it finaly gave in today tho its one ruined pulley now .thanks for the input guys

Hi Bob, Thanks for pointing that out, I have not seen that technique with a slide puller used before. It makes sense once explained.

Hi Mike, glad to see that you got it sorted at last. Sometimes things are just stubborn!!
Well done mate.

Mike, can we see a picture of the pulley please? We'd still like to know how it was designed, so this thread can be useful as an archive.

sorry for the delay guys and the pulley is not quite as it should be but never the less here it is the before shot
what you see here is the pulley only it is one piece with shaft extension built in.it was seized onto the shaft and i ended up having to heat and cool it pouring engine oil around shaft while hott when cooled it draws the oil in.i had so much preasure on it that it destroyed the pulley so now i have to make a new one as they are no longer available new i will cut the old pulley off the shaft and fit an alloy one in its place the after shot

both rods in the engine had nipped and it broke one and put it thru the block behind the starter



when i pulled it down all the fins on the engine where chok a block full of dirt grass etc and i recon it was over heating there was no metal in the oil so to speak and the bores are in good nick.it had broken one ring on the rod that didnt break there was a piece about 10mm long in the wash up bowl

Can you verify that the bolt that held the lower pulley and clutch on, fed right through the extension and screwed into the end of the crankshaft please?

The engine problem looks much more like lubrication failure than overheating. Overheating, in my experience anyway, leads to ring/piston seizure, not big end seizure. My guess is that there was very little oil in the sump and he was running it hard. I understand all of the OHV v-twins have pressure lubrication, so if the oil level was not low, there may have been a failure of the pump or filter, or a blockage of the pump intake in the sump.

The crankshaft would have to be ground if you wanted to use it again, and you'd need undersized connecting rods to match. I don't know how practical that is, but it is a modern engine so it may be easy. A short block (short motor) may be a more economical solution, depending on the other damage inside the crankcase. The hole in the crankcase looks easily fixable by an argon-arc expert, if you wanted to repair the old engine.

grumpy yes the bolt went right thru and threaded into the crank it held the pto onto the extension shaft there seemed to be plenty of oil in the engine it was black so it hadnt just been topped up.so it may habe been the oil pump failure or oil filter it wasnd goey etc the oil looked normal viscosity

Mike, if there had been overheating, there would have been a smell from the grass on the cylinder head fins and it would have been dark brown, verging on black, getting darker as you got closer to the surface of the fins.

If you start to dismantle the engine, take a look at the suction pipe for the oil pump to see if it is blocked or nearly blocked by sludge. You might also check the condition of the filter. Usually there is an automatic bypass for the oil filter if it blocks up, but the bypass can block up too if there is sludge involved.

Unless you are going to replace the whole engine, it is important to find out why it broke, so you can be sure you've fixed it and it won't happen again.

The pulley and extension shaft has been fabricated from three pieces of steel. The damaged pulley could be parted off and a replacement pulley welded on, if you can get a steel pulley of the right diameter and belt width. Provided the bore that fits over the crankshaft is undamaged, this may not be a very expensive job.

motor is in pieces now and the gunk in the fins was black and verry dense there didnt seem to be any sludge in the sump but i think by the time i buy new rods machine crank new gasket kit new rings and weld block im up over 500 bux and can buy a new 19.5 hp briggs intec for about 850 from the states including shipping.the pulley i have organised a machine shop to remove old pulley and machine a new one and refit for 150.00

If the grass in the fins (not the mud) was black, it's been way too hot. You did say there was a broken ring, but on the rod that didn't break. I can't see any way the crankpin could have got into that condition if oil had been flowing across it. Overall, I'm not comfortable with the theory that the problem was caused by overheating alone, or even primarily.

I'm guessing you are leaning toward replacing the engine, at those prices. It gets you back out there mowing for $1,000 with a new engine. Life could be worse.

yeah could be a lot worse grumpy ill park it up untill something comes along im in no hurry to fix her.thanks for all the advice guys ......regards mike

Mike, I'll close this thread. When you do the re-engining project, please start another one - we'd all like to see it going back together.