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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3
Novice
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A big hello to all.Happy to be aboard.I am a bit of a mower nut.I am new to the forum. I have a 160 cc Bronco Victa with the what now seems "infamous" plastic carbie.( They were metal in my day !)Who makes a carbie out of plastic ??? Same carbie troubles.Goes full boar,no rev range and won't idle."It seems someone could make a full time living on their own just fixing these blighters" A real engineering masterpeice it would seem.Please help. Many Thanks Fozz ...
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3
Novice
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Many thanks for the info. What parts are likely to need replacing with my particular promlem (Goes full boar,no rev range and won't idle.)Cheers Fozz
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi Fozz and a warm welcome to the forum.  We are all "mower nuts" and like to learn new things and tinker here.  These plastic carbies can be a nightmare and unfortunately outside my area of expertise, but hopefully Joe Carroll will jump in here and give you some good advice. Once again, wazzbat,
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 580 Likes: 2
Qualified Senior
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This will happen if the carby is sucking air. Check for cracks or if the wire plug (where the kill wires go) has been removed. It also happens if the throttle cable has come out of its guide. This can happen if the cable is bent at the ball end. On my mower I can tell when this happens as the throttle control "feels" loose or there is a jerk at the start and then it feels loose. The jerk is the ball popping out of the guide.
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Joe Carroll
Unregistered
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To start with it would be worth checking out the following O rings:
- under the starter, inlet manifold to crankcase, carb to inlet manifold
After that I would remove the carb and carefully inspect the body of it for cracks or damage, under the back cover is a rubber diaphragm and sometimes they can pul in allowing it to suck more air.
The plastic carbs are pretty good in my opinion, there are plenty of worse ones to work on out there.
Cheers. Joe.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,819 Likes: 6
Junior Technician
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Nothing like asking the same question in two threads. the other thread you asked in I dont mind the plastic carbs. They are pretty simple with how they work. If its together and complete and not worn through or broken its a safe bet that if you clean it out and put it back together it will work fine. Cheers, Bob.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2
Novice
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g'day, got a victa vortex, plastic carby job, won't start, plug seems wet, got spark and compression, any tips much appreciated, thanks
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926 Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
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Welcome to Outdoorking, acawse. I suggest you go through the basic process, to get reasonably reliable data. First, remove the spark plug, clamp its metal body to a cylinder head fin, reconnect the lead, put the speed control in the starting position, and pull the starter. Check the even-ness and blue colour of the string of sparks. If you pass that test, turn off the fuel, pull it over a few times without the spark plug to clear the crankcase of fuel, squirt a spoonful of fuel into the spark plug hole, put the plug back in and connect it, put the speed control in the starting position and pull it over (leaving the fuel turned off). Check for it starting and running for a short time.
If that approach shows that it has spark, and will fire with the correct amount of fuel, the main question is whether you have a carburetor fault or an air leak into the crankcase. The wet plug suggests you may have a flooding problem, and it hasn't been starting because it has a crankcase full of fuel.
Please give us an update after checking these things.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2
Novice
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yeah cheers grumpy, i'll get back to you on that
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,819 Likes: 6
Junior Technician
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If it passes what grumpy suggested, fires runs and dies out.
Pop the back cover off the carb and check that the cable is rotating the grey plastic thing. Some times they pop out. Check for any cracks in the cover or carb body. Hoses rubbing on them can wear through them.
If it still wont run.
Grab the disc under the mover and see if it has any movement in the bearing. do this with the plug out. If there is it will need new crank bearings. If its real leaky it wont start.
Another common problem with not starting is bad compression. A warped head is one cause.
Head down to the local mower shop and get some parts. Top crank case seal (its a big O-ring under the pull start). Inlet manifold O-rings (big one and little one), take it off the block to fit them. Stop pin rubber. Primer cap (face) O-ring, when you fit this dont roll it on. Put it round the bottom and hold in two spots with your fingers about 1/3 of the circumfrence, then stretch it out to get it over the lip. And if it needs it and new primer face and needle. The brass screw that holds the face on is the main jet, make sure this is clear and not blocked.
Get a some diesel or Kerro and a suitable container. Pull the carb off, strip it down clean everything up. Blow the body out with compressed air. Suppose you could just use a can of spray carb clean. Wear glasses that stuff stings like hell if you get it in your eyes. Its bad enough on the face or arms etc. Put it back together.
Theres a video on Youtube on how to do the throttle cable. Check it out its a big help.
Before you put the carb back on poke the stop pin rubber in and put the pins in with the carb just sitting in the general area. Then check spark. If it passes put the carb back on and it should fire up.
If it was running and now its not i would say the most likely problem will be the O-ring under the pull start. I had one the other day that had ingested the Oring, little bits of it everywhere. Dont try and use silastic etc on it, just a smear of oil and try and put the starter back on evenly.
Cheers, Bob.
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