OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines 13.5hp B&S Intec fuel solenoid

Hi Again People,
I had my Rover XC running like a dream for a max 4 hours total (not constantly), I just went to start it and flattened the battery, take it out recharge it no problem, Tried to start the motor no go , check spark (heaps), check fuel out of tank to carby, runs out of hose ok, take air filters off no go, pour some fuel down the carby throat, away she goes till it uses the fuel and stops , can anyone tell me how to bypass the fuel solenoid as I think that is the problem ? and where can i buy one please
Cheers
laurie

Hi laurie,i had the same problem with my v-twin.my fuel stop solenoid screws into the floet bowl from the bottom,when there is no power to the solenoid the internal plunger blocks the main jet.to test the solenoid disconect the wire and supply 12 volts to the wire going to the solenoid by tapping it on/off the 12 volt supply-if functional you should hear a click-click-click.mine stoped working all together so i unscrewed it from the carby bowl and replaced it with a VERY short bolt of the same thread guage and away it went...ken

I do not recommend removing the solenoid except for brief tests. There are reports on the internet of it being a troublesome component, and it often fails partly rather than completely, so it could emit a click on test but still be useless. You can check it though, by following two steps. First, replace the solenoid temporarily with a suitable screw or bolt and see if the engine runs. If it does, reinstall the solenoid, apply 12 V directly to it, and try to start the engine. If it starts, the problem is in the wiring upstream of the solenoid. If it doesn't, the solenoid has failed.

Ok, pulled the solenoid out and tested it works fine, plunger goes up and down ok, makes clicking noise when hooked to 12v power, still wont start & I am stuck any suggestions please
Cheers
Laurie

Laurie, it would be good to plug the hole in the bottom of the float bowl temporarily so you can verify that the solenoid is not implicated: I've read that it often ends up with reduced armature movement even though it still moves. Also, you've checked that the solenoid's armature moves when you put 12 volts on it, but you haven't checked that it gets 12 volts when you turn on the ignition. This needs to be cleared up before going further.

Next question is, when you removed the solenoid, did a float-bowl-full of petrol run out all over your hand? If not, you have a problem either with the fuel tap (like, you left it turned off and that is the problem) or with the needle-and-seat (stuck or blocked). If the float bowl was full, we'll need to get into the gizzards of your carburetor, so we need a picture of it please, along with your engine model number.

Good Morning all,
I got the beast started, I checked the spark again and got nothing, plugged a screw driver into the plug lead and hung on to the screwdriver, tried to start the motor and nothing no bite or kick, found an old coil on the old 13.5hp motor I had lying around the shed hooked it up changed the power lead to the fuel solenoid and away she went YAHOO went and mowed the front lawn in the rain, now all I have to do is chase a new coil under warranty HA HA, Happy new year to all and thanks for all the advise

Cheers
Laurie

Thanks for keeping us posted crackers, that gives an ending to the case for our archive. I don't understand why there was strong spark when you tested it at the beginning of this thread, if you had an ignition problem - I wonder if replacing the anti-dieseling solenoid wire didn't have more to do with fixing your engine than replacing the ignition unit did? You might have had a problem with the safety circuit when you tested the ignition at the end of the process, which would have caused the kill wire to be grounded. Anyway, I'm glad it was something so simple. I'll close the thread.