OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers Novice Owner - Scott Bonnar 45, 20inch

Off to the sandblaster...

Hi Aussie, Just a heads up, I notice that your handle-bar cover Scott Bonnar sticker is still in place, please make sure that you mask it up well with tape before you sandblast, these original stickers are irreplaceable, they are no longer available.

Deejay, the original sticker was in bad shape and since the resto I am keen to get all new stickers. I may make them myself unless someone can put me onto some else who can? So that means the original one is gone....

Hi Aussie, yes, with a full resto I can see where your coming from....you want every detail to be perfect.
It's a shame that someone isn't manufacturing stickers and decals for the different models of Scott Bonnars, I think that they would prove popular, if placed on the market.
Regarding Steve (deviosi), I did ask him to share some of his resto tips and tricks..and that hopefully that would include his stickers. At present, he has not posted any.

Maybe he just wants to keep all of his secrets to himself Deejay....? lol

Can anyone tell me where I should be able to source a clutch cone cork and outer cork for this machine ; or, if I even need to replace the ones that are currently fitted. How much wear before they should be replaced?. What bonding adhesive do I use to stick the new ones on?
Cheers, Craig.

Craig, try your local mower shop, Outdoor King online shop, or do a search on the inet. Even try the web-site I gave you the other day. They are not high price items & should not be too hard to get. (I paid $5.00 for the clutch cone cork a few weeks back). Double check that you actually need them though. I assumed I needed the clutch cone cork, bought it & my "old" cork was the same thickness as the new (about 3 mm). Adhesive- Kwik- Grip (according to the fellow at my local mower shop). Just make sure you put the clutch cone cork in the correct way.
I hope this helps.
Cheers-Ross.

Thanks, yeah the fact that whether i need them or not is the issue as the current ones at the moment seem ok condition. Not sure of the "new" thickness..
Cheers, Craig.

hi! aussie blue the 2 clutch corks are worth replacing as they are cheap and if u are doing a complete pull down why not getting the engine clutch cork in even and making it stay there is a bit tricky attached is a photo of my method to keep it in place for 24 hours kind regards steve....

Thanks Deviosi,

I will replace the corks, thanks for the tip. Also what brand an type of paint did you use especially for the engine, and did you use the same paint on the engine as on the reel??

Cheers, Craig.

Oh Deviosi,

Stickers.... where did you get all your new decals / stickers from? They look great on your restos.

Craig.

Craig, re your paintwork. I was quoted $350.00 today for "wet spray paint" hammertone (professionally painted), rather than powdercoat as there are more green colour options available. This includes reel, catcher & all components in your pics, plus outer/ inner clutch cone, clutch handle & bottom blade holder. How does that compare to your quotations for similar work thus far? I have used this fellow before & his work is top notch.
Cheers Ross

Well It has cost me 35 dollars so far as i only paid for the sand blasting. I was lucky enough to know a paint supplier who gave me a litre of hammertone green enamel (for nothing) to spray.. I had the red paint already in the shed - galmet signal red and mixed a dash of golden yellow to make the briggs orange. That will be for the engine and reel..

But i suppose if i had to pay for all the paint you could set aside say $75 at least. So total $110 for the paint and sandblast and all labour done by me. I think thats getting out of it pretty cheap though!

So Id say 350 is probably a fair price for someone else to do it esp if he has to prep it all.. But if you do it yourself you need the tools, materials, consumables such as thinners, masking tape, clean up, utensils etc plus the time.. So I'd say for everything painted with no fuss or worries it'd be reasonable..

The thing I keep reminding my self is that to buy a new 20inch cylinder mower i am looking at upwards of $1400. So if i can get away with spending half that or less for a fully restored machine with all new components, bearings etc you'd be getting an ok deal..

I have also spent $100 on getting the handle bars rechromed.
I am yet to buy bearings and other small parts I require. I'm thinking my resto will be up around 350 but i have done it all myself and have had luck with having a few things already.

hi aussie, the hammertone paint i used is a custom mix to the inside of the chain cover. it takes a bit to get it right, as the base code that scott bonnar used to form their green, is not available and yes the kirby engine and the cylinder cutter are the same color which is the way they came out of the factory and that color is called international orange. both above colors i add 369 hardener and apply with spray gun 10% enamel thinners and 8 mls per ltr of hardener at 30 psi. the decals i have a friend who makes them their not crap...they are made to suit the elements back to matching the green. Its done with several hammer colors, this would have to be noted next time i get some made and i could pass on the ratio; but with the info above seek out a paint supply in your area. Good luck regards steve.....

the paint brand is protec enamel /hammertone

Hi Craig, just a reminder, it depends on the "model" of the SB 45 that determines certain factors, as there were significant changes between the two.

The "Mark 1" shall we say, has; a solid engine deck, a solid cast height adjuster knob, cast alloy front roller end-caps with rivets, different grass deflector upper screws, cutter chain tension set-up, horizontal chain case cover screws, different complete frame colour and early SB stickers and decals. (Steve's machine)

The "Mark 2" has; a 2 piece split rail engine deck, cast alloy height adjuster knob, plastic front roller end-caps,
polypropylene cutter chain tension set-up, vertical chain case cover screws, the last version of the hammertone green and the "shield type" SB logo on the catcher, chain case cover, and handlebar cover plate.

Seeing you are doing a thorough, back to original, ground up restoration, the "Mark" of your machine is important for frame colour and stickers.

hi! all i have attached a photo of what a 3 piece chassis looks like which was changed to a 1 piece with welded engine rails as opposed to a single engine deck that was bolted on. regards steve....

Devoisi,
The three piece / solid deck, looks much sturdier than the one piece / split rail engine mount frame I have..

Where the engine sits on my split rails it looks like they (the rails)"sag" a little. Will this be a problem for proper engine / clutch shaft alignment?

I noticed another forum members' machine looked to have had a similar issue, Stu45 from memory..

Also, my machine has all the details as Deejay has explained to match a "Mark 2" though has horizontal chain case cover screws..?

Hi Craig and Steve, I have a sneaking suspicion that your machine Craig must be a "Mark 1 1/2" which would be a very early model "Mark 2" which would have been a transitional machine using some bits from the "Mark 1".

Shame they didn't put on the solid deck tho....

Deejay,
So what stickers / decals should i use and what do they look like? I could only make out the one on the handle bars..
Cheers, Craig.