OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions On Ride On Mowers Frames Anyone heard of Rally Roper?

I've acquired a Rally Roper with a briggs 12hp. I'm trying to obtain a bit of knowledge before I start pulling it down. It has no forward drive and the motor needs some attention with the massive oil burning problems. The steering needs some work as well. Should be a good project.

I'm hoping that the gearbox problem is simply a busted shear pin for the forward gears and a hone with a set of rings for the motor. Anyone have any clues for me?

Mark

Hi zedman, firstly, can you please post some pics of your project, it may help to identify your machine.

Hi Zedman and to our forum.

Murray was one of the two that produced the Rally Roper and parts list should be available but we need you to give us the model number and it should look something like this EXAMPLE: 405001X78B.

So if you can locate the model number which should be on the rear of the ride on we can help you further.

Yeah, I've got some numbers and some photos to post up. Just need to upload them to my photobucket account. Be back soon

Righto, here it is. A Roper Rally L1904BR.



Fitted with a B&S 12HP and it has a 36" deck.



The cockpit:



A couple more of the reason why there is no forward motion. I've pulled apart the transaxle assembly and found out that the spur gears and the drive shaft are knackered. Thought about boring the gears and pressing in a bronze bush and welding and machining the shaft. The gearbox/transaxle is a Foote 3264-5 and a long winded search on the web reveals that replacement parts are obsolete.

I seem to see 4 Woodruff keyways on the side of the shaft that is visible, which probably explains why you would rather fix the old shaft than turn up a new one. Not sure what has been going on near the right hand end of the shaft - surely it can't have been eroded away to that extent, unless something awful has happened (like tearing out a keyway)? Also, I'm not clear how your bushing-the-gears idea would work if the gears need to slide on Woodruff keys. Looks like we need more information, unless you have just posted this material for general interest.

Hi everyone
I am looking for a part list / instruction manual for the same model (Roper Rally L1904BR). Can anyone help?

Gday

Long story short, I tasked a local machine shop to knock up a new shaft out of 4140 with standard keyways etc and bore out the gear and fit a bronze bush. Twelve months later, they still hadn't done it so I gave it to Dad who has access to lathes and he had the job completed.

The transaxle was regreased and put back together. I found out that at some stage, the transaxle was pulled apart and put together incorrectly which meant that it no high range. This was fixed(I found a diagram on the www) and now the mower drives!!

The cutting deck has two knackered spindles that will be replaced. The bearings collapsed whilst giving it a test run. This gave my lawn an awful fright with chunks and high/low grooves everywhere.

Whole spindle assemblies have been sourced in the US and should arrive for under $120 delivered. I'm also going to replace the little wheels that roll beneath the deck as their bearings have also collapsed.

The motor goes well and is easy to start. I'm pretty happy with what was a freeby.

I'll post some photos when all is done..

Mark

Geez mark if you were down south and west of me i would appologise.

I spent my youth on one of them mowing a 3 acre yard and they do awesome roll backs
Something gotta give and nothing ever did.



From what i recall it was a pretty good bit of kit. Heaps better mower than the Cox that my Grand father bought. Those cone drive things dont like warm days.


Can you tell me mark, is my memory right in thinking that the fuel tank had a cap on it with a guage in it??? Cork float up to the needle??

I have a victa here that has the same thing, the dome is broken and i want to replace it with a straight cap. Any tips anyone???



Cheers, Bob.

Try a plastic cap of a 20 litre plastic square drum,the dome fuel caps are the same as a plastic fuel tank for a boat (tinny)...ken

Don't you need a vented cap, Ken? Unless the mower's fuel tank has a separate vent, putting a non-vented cap on it will result in mysterious engine flame-outs at very short intervals.

Thanks guys i will hunt around in the shed.

I forgot to say that i drilled a tiny hole in the cap and put a rubber grommet inside to keep the dust out...ken

Ken, I think you'll need some holes in the rubber gasket. The way I'd do it is more or less a copy of the B&S tank cap: drill a hole in the center of the cap, and cut an oil-resistant rubber disk that just fits inside the cap. Punch four holes in the rubber disk, in a pattern so none of them is close to the hole in the cap. When a vacuum starts to form in the tank it will pull the rubber disk away from the cap, allowing air to flow through the holes in the cap and the disk.