Here's a printable crankcase/sump gasket template for a common Briggs & Stratton Sprint 375 engine (OEM gasket #692218). I thought others might find it useful. It was drawn by laying the sump on my scanner and "tracing" around the inner and outer line of the sump using a graphic drawing program.
Please note that it is an exact trace of the SUMP case itself. NOT an exact copy of an original GASKET.
What's the difference? Well, when it was complete, I printed and cut it out with scissors. Then I lay it on both the sump and what was left of the original gasket to compare. When it is on the engine crankcase, it is as close to perfect as you could hope for. But when compared to what was left of the original gasket, I could see the original gasket was slightly larger by about 1mm in and outside the printed lines.
That "extra" 1mm on the original gasket only poked just in - and out of - the crankcase/sump. So that extra 1mm possibly isn't even necessary. However I thought I'd mention it in case you want to allow for it. I did by just cutting slightly to either side of the inner and outer lines. The centre of the holes of course do not move. They measured as 7mm on the original gasket using a vernier caliper.
I'm a perfectionist, so I did try to solve the extra millimeter in the graphic drawing program. But because of the way the template was drawn (using many lines, curves, and partial circles), the program would not enlarge it evenly in all directions.
So it's up to you folks. As I said the 1mm of "extra" gasket only poked in and outside of the cast of the engine anyway. So you can do as I did and just add that extra mm by cutting slightly either side of the inner and outer printed lines. Or you can cut right on the lines. (You can always cut one out of paper first to test.)
Some people may be able to print directly onto the gasket, but the way I made it up was to cut up a manila folder and feed that through my inkjet. Then I cut out the manila cardboard with scissors, leaving the holes uncut/intact. Then I lay the cardboard template onto the gasket material and traced around it.
With the manila cardboard template still in place I punched the holes with a 7mm hollow punch - right through the manila cardboard and gasket at the same time. (This was much easier than one of my past attempts, when I tried to "save" my cardboard template by judging the hole position on the gasket material after the cardboard template was removed.)
I've attached it as both a *.gif and *.pdf file in case people have trouble with one or the other.
Oops, nearly forgot... The hole at the bottom left is a dotted line, because it was stamped out of the original gasket - but there was no corresponding hole in my engine. So I put it in as a dotted line in case some engines need that hole - but also to remind me I didn't need to stamp it out with the hollow punch.
Hi Allan, and for the template upload. It is great to see members helping other members of the forum by contributing threads, such as your template, which may help somebody who needs a gasket urgently. Once again Allan, well done, mate!
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
hi allan i have made quite a few sump gaskets over the time by using the housing as a template. your template will be real handy, thanks mate. i find with good quality gasket paper, good sealant,and make sure the bolts are dead tight theres no problems. cheers micka
You're both/all welcome. I've tried tracing gaskets before. Simple ones are ok, but I can never seem to locate holes just right. Doing an inner cut usually turns into a dog's breakfast too (for me anyway). It took me most of a day (on and off) to complete this one on the computer. But I was pleased with the end result (this time).
The local shop "guessed" this gasket by itself - a special order (why?) - would cost "about" $12. But the last time they "quessed" (guess-quoted) something, it was going to be ~$10 and turned out to be ~$30 once it arrived. It was under $6 for a roll of gasket material from the local auto store instead - and there's still plenty left over. Already had locktite aviation sealant and the hollow punches that were a few bucks from GoLo.
Micka... Tight bolts, yeah... Just think, if it wasn't for some guy at the factory not doing up that last bolt...
for the template upload. 
