Hi all, Looking for a little help. I was given this Victa 5/26 and when the clutch is released one belt is tightening and one belt is loosening. I have attached a picture of the pulley config which I think is wrong if any one is able to confirm as a new motor was put on and wither the pulleys were put on the shafts wrong or something is missing like a idle pulley.
The loose belt that is hanging down goes to the cutting deck and that comes directly off the motor. The pulley on the left back of the picture comes off the gearbox and the front pulley is the sliding pulley attached to the clutch.
Thank you for your help
Last edited by CyberJack; 30/10/1510:36 PM. Reason: Rotated image.
Hi do you have any photos and/or dimensions of the two engine pulleys? I need to know these since mine is missing these, the part numbers dont exist but I can likely get and MTD one if I know the dimensions. Basically the spacing between the two pulleys and the diameters. Thanks
When the pulley comes off fairly easily ,I've removed the engine with the pulley on, then turned the engine upside down and held the engine off the ground by the pulley while the original pulley bolt is removed and putting a longer bolt into the end of the crank you hammer the bolt ,it's easier with 2 people.
Sometimes the hole in the frame won't allow the engine to be removed without first removing the pulley, then I have put wood on 2 spots opposite ends on the top of the pulley and with 2 long Tyre irons to lever the pulley down ,I will hit the crank up but is more of a tap with the hammer so as you are levering down you hit a long bolt in the crank upward and it will slowly move the pulley off but both these ways I will first use a lot of WD40 to soak in.These 2 ways are if it's not too stuck.
If you have to use heat you may need to replace the lower oil seal afterwards.
And below are a few other ways I would use if the pulley is really stuck.
Well Max, any ideas on the one I am doing at the moment, a Victa 24 that you have to get the pulley off the taper so you can remove the motor. Guess what is going to happen with a jig saw once I get the motor off
If I remove the pulley on the mower I would tip the mower on it's side put a metal bar on one side of the hub and onto the ground as long as you aren't on the v belt part of the pulley then I use a big brass punch on the other side of the hub and hit the brass punch and the pulley should pop off.
You can make a tool if your not pulling on the v belt part of the pulley and use a balancer remover in the tool you make.
Thanks Max, yes I got the pulley off and then cut an 80mm hole in the base and now I can lift the motor on and off. I replaced the bottom seal on the motor and now I can't get it started it seems like it is too far advanced but I have tried several positions and at the moment I have it fully retarded and it is still kicking back
It's probably worth 🔍 Checking the list below just to make sure you haven't missed anything.
Kickback on a 2-stroke engine like the Victa 160cc in your 24" slasher—especially with a vacuum-controlled decompressor and V-belt driven blade plate—typically points to ignition timing or decompression issues. You've already fully retarded the ignition, which is the first and correct step. However, since the engine is still kicking back, here are the most likely causes and solutions:
As we know even a small failure in the vacuum-operated decompressor can cause excessive compression during cranking, leading to kickback.
Valve operation – it should open during cranking and close as the engine runs.
Carbon build-up or sticking in the valve seat area also the small port that the decomp connects to the combustion chamber can become blocked with carbon.
I've had a few motors where the exhaust port is restricted with carbon so I usually remove the muffler to check the ports not blocked if there is a problem with starting or running.If it's blocked you can use a screw driver if your careful to remove the carbon.
Also you can temporarily remove or disable the decompressor and test cranking to see if kickback is reduced. that will tell you if the port is free or decomp is blocked.
Fully retarded ignition might still be too advanced at low cranking RPMs, especially if:
The flywheel key is partially sheared.
The ignition module (if electronic) is faulty or triggering early.
I've had bad spark plugs that advance the spark.
Check:
Is the belt tension correct?
Any drag on the crankshaft? If the bearings on the blade plate shaft aren't free ,example grass jammed in the rotating assembly then the preloading the crank on start up will cause kick back.
Lean mixture or a bad plug can cause pre-ignition which leads to kickback.
🔍 Check:
Plug heat range – should be cold enough (e.g., NGK B6HS).
Plug gap.
Fuel condition and octane – stale fuel is notorious for causing detonation.
âś… Fix:
New plug with correct gap.
Fresh, high-octane 2-stroke mix .I'd try 98 ron see if it makes a difference on start up.
Another thing I try, just to see what happens is to remove the decomp and put a short plug in the decomp hole as this will lower the comp slightly.
If this is a full crank motor they don't usually kick back and on the 24 they usually use a high comp head.
Another thing that might effect the kick back is if you chose an earlier motor the crank is heavier and this can help reduce kickback as we know.
Any problem and I like to replace the coil with a good known coil as it saves time if it fixes the problem as a faulty ignition coil can cause kickback on a 2-stroke engine
Hi Max, I had this F/C motor starting and running yesterday but it wouldn't keep running which I believe was the lower seal slightly leaking so I pulled the motor and replaced the seal, and now trying to drill start it is causing problems. The decomp is working because it spins over for a few revs and then once the decomp closes is when it kicks back. I will try a module on it tomorrow and see if that helps
If it was me Norm and the bottom seal has been replaced and the old seal if the rubber had gone hard I'd be wanting to change the top seal, I know it's a bit of a pain with the later 160 cc FC when the motor has to come apart to hit the seal in from the crank counterweight end,
It's just that we know when there's a problem like this kickback you need to know where the problem is and to change the seal will rule out that as a possible cause but you can check the rest and see how you go and do the top seal last if the other checks and remedies don't fix the kickback.
I've always found most old 2 strokes run and start better with new crank seals also it's interesting when I have a 2 stroke that I know the seals need replacing and it's hard to start and keep running and all I do is convert them to electronic ignition and they run and start a lot better but I still know the seals need replacing.
The way I look at it is every old 2 stroke motorbike I've ever owned ran and started better when I changed the crank seals
As we know crank seals aren't made to last
A leaking top seal allows air to enter the crankcase during the intake phase.
This dilutes the fuel-air mixture, making it too lean or inconsistent.
It can also reduce the vacuum needed to draw in fuel from the carburetor properly.
.
Condition Expected Lifespan Regular use, well-maintained 5–10 years Infrequent use, dry storage 8–15+ years (less wear, but seals may still go hard over time) Poor storage (heat, sun, fuel exposure) 2–5 years
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