I have a Lectron 2000i generator that refuses to run unless fuel is manually sprayed into carby. Highly suspect fuel pump is faulty because the primer bulb refuses to show any petrol at all and appears intact with suction ? Fuel flows freely from the tank. The fuel pump is stamped XINGVUZHOU PBT-GF30. It has 4 connections - to fuel on/off tap, to carby bowl, to primer pump, to engine side of carby. I can find nothing on eBay etc for this part, and all of the fuel pumps listed have only 3 outlets shown. Is it worth dismantling fuel pump to check condition ? Any info most appreciated , Gary
The vacuum pumps with 3 connectors are more common.
Plenty of 4 connector pumps are available online ,I just googled something like ,snowmobile vacuum fuel pump 4 connectors.
The 4 connections likely correspond to:
1 Fuel Inlet: From the fuel tank/on/off tap.
2 Fuel Outlet: To the carburetor bowl.
3 Primer Pump Connection: This is likely where the primer bulb draws fuel through the pump to prime the system.
4 Vacuum/Pulse Line: This line connects to the engine (often the crankcase or intake manifold) to provide the pulses that drive the pump. This is the "missing" connection on typical gravity-fed or simple electric pumps.
Pros of dismantling:
Diagnosis: You can visually inspect the diaphragm(s) for tears, cracks, or hardening. You might also find blockages in the small internal passages.
Potential Repair: If it's a simple tear in a diaphragm (which is common in these types of pumps over time), you might be able to find a suitable replacement diaphragm . Sometimes, just cleaning out debris can restore function.
Learning: You'll gain valuable insight into how this specific type of pump works, which will help in future troubleshooting.
Cost Savings: If you can fix it, it's free!
Cons/Considerations of dismantling:
Depending on the material used for the pump . Fragility: The plastic and rubber components can be brittle, especially if they're old. You risk breaking something during disassembly or reassembly.
Lack of Parts: While you might identify the issue, finding individual repair parts (like a specific diaphragm) for an obscure pump like "XINGVUZHOU PBT-GF30" can be extremely difficult or impossible.
Complexity: Reassembling vacuum pumps correctly can be tricky, ensuring all diaphragms and check valves are seated properly.
Diaphragms: These are the most common failure point. Look for tears, holes, cracks, stiffness, or warping. There might be one or more diaphragms.
Check Valves: These are small, often rubber or plastic flaps that control the direction of fuel flow. Ensure they aren't stuck open or closed, and are intact.
Debris: Look for any dirt, rust, or other foreign material obstructing passages.
Springs: Note the placement and condition of any small springs that might be involved with the diaphragms or valves.
I had a quick look and saw a new pump for $37. with free postage from china that was on eBay but I haven't checked Temu, AliExpress or Amazon.
Hi Max, thanks so much for your most informative reply. I will certainly try and buy a 4 outlet pump on eBay but still dismantle the old one for experience. If I find anything interesting will post info, Gary
I am having trouble finding a similar 4 port fuel pump. There are plenty 3 port pumps available - without primer facility. I am happy to fit a 3 port pump and manually prime it with fuel or starting spray on the odd occasion that I use this generator. Does anyone see an issue with this scenario - other than inconvenience. Thanks, Gary
I usually find searches go better with Firefox and Google. Sometimes I go to the eBay.com instead of the eBay.com.au and find one that is free postage from China.
The 4 port pumps are available ,eBay ,Amazon ,etc ,a 3 port makes it more difficult to start but I don't see any major issues with this setup beyond the inconvenience, as long as the fuel pump is appropriate for your engine's needs. It may take a little extra time to get it started, but it sounds like it should work fine if you're willing to put in that extra effort when you use it.
1 The primer port on a 4-port pump usually helps to get fuel into the system and ensure proper fuel delivery to the engine. By manually priming a 3-port pump, you're essentially recreating this function but on a manual basis. This shouldn't cause any major issues, as long as you're able to reliably prime the system each time you use the generator.
2. Fuel Flow:
If you're swapping the 4-port pump for a 3-port pump, ensure that the pump you're using is still capable of providing the necessary fuel flow and pressure for your generator. A 3-port pump should still work for most applications, but itβs important that it matches the fuel delivery requirements of the engine. If the pump is too weak or not designed to handle the flow, you could experience issues like poor starting or stalling under load.
3. Inconvenience:
As you mentioned, the main downside is the inconvenience. Manually priming the system each time you use the generator is an extra step, but it's not something that will cause long-term damage if done correctly. However, if you're using the generator regularly, this could become more of a hassle.
4. Potential Risk:
The only real risk with this approach is that you might forget to manually prime the system, which could lead to difficulty starting the generator. Over time, that could lead to some wear and tear on the starter system, or potentially fuel starvation during startup.
5. Alternative:
If youβre willing to go through the manual priming process, it could be worth checking if there are any additional or aftermarket primer kits available that might fit your generator and allow for a more automated priming solution with a 3-port pump. Some aftermarket parts can make priming easier or more efficient.
I guess if you start putting in an electric primer or vacuum controlled primer for automatic priming it all adds up in cost .
