I am after assistance to fix my Late Model 2 Stroke Victa Lawn Mower.
To give you some information. I have replaced the Spark Plug. I have purchased a Victa Carby Kit and replaced the Diaphragm , Cutoff boot and O rings. I am still using the original Needle and springs.
The Poppet valve, is an A, 3, C type Poppet Valve and it is set to C. Without a Rev Meter, I am thinking it is revving at about 3000rpm, but I could be wrong.
When cold, I set the throttle just past the Cold start spot and pressing the primer bulb about 6 times it will usually start within 2 pulls and keep running until turned off.
Whilst running, it seems okay, it may bog under heavy load, but it will regain speed once I back off.
My Problem
If I restart the lawn mower within a minute of it being turned off , it will usually restart.
But if I leave it off for 5 minutes , it will not restart. And I have to try priming it and pulling the pull cord so many times for it to restart and sometimes I succeed and sometimes I do not succeed and need to go to a backup lawn mower to finish the lawn.
After an hour or so, it may or may not start. But if I try it the next day it will restart.
Does anyone, advise what I can do to fix it. I quite enjoy the 2 Stroke mower and feel something minor is amiss causing these issues.
I don't want to just throw money on stuff hoping to fix the issue, but if advice is this is the cause and more than likely fix the issue I am happy to proceed and advise all, with a follow up post.
Hi Harry, I'm not sure if the way I modify these carbys helps with this problem but I haven't had people tell me they are having this problem. 2 strokes have always had this sort of problem, it was really bad with the early Victas, not so much with the Powertorques
Usually with this type of problem I would do a service starting with checking the compression with a compression tester.
Sounds like the carby is sorted but it may have a plastic float needle that is sticking ,I would buy the metal needle with the float clip.
I've had starting problems when the 3 starter bolts come loose so every motor I work on I always check the bolts are tight and always tighten the screws that hold the intake manifold to the engine as they can come loose with age.
Just to rule out any decompressor issues I would remove it and screw an old spark plug in , a short plug will do, the same plug the engine takes.
Using the plug to block the decompressor hole will allow you to now feel the compression when starting and when the motor gets hot you should be able to tell from the starter if the compression is much less when hot than when cold.(This way you don't need a Comp tester)
If the above fixes the problem then put the decompressor back in and if the problem comes back you know the decompressor needs replacing.
I'd also take the fuel hose off the carby and turn the fuel on to check the fuel flow rate from the fuel tap as I often need to clean the fuel filter to get a better flow rate.
I usually find with the metal needles the motor requires less priming to start.
If you already have the metal needle just use that and see how it goes.
Yes once you replace the decompressor with a plug if the compression is down you will know the rings / cylinder are worn.
If the top of the plug is in the way of the top plastic engine cover when you block the decompressor hole I would just break the top porcelain part of the plug off.
Another test is to start the mower and turn the engine off by turning the fuel tap off and just before the engine stops if it runs a lot quicker you have an air leak.
(If the engine accelerates or runs more quickly just before it stops, it could indicate that there is an air leak somewhere)
This has probably been covered here but I have a bad migraine and struggling to even read. I recently had a very similar problem with a Victa Utility 2 stroke I was recently given though it would start hot it just wouldn't rev. It turns out the plastic carburettor cover was turned away from the level mark meaning once it warmed up the float wasn't allowing enough fuel in to rev. I had no idea of the level mark on the white carburettor cover because my primary mower is a much older hand wind start (so much easier than pulling the cord (but I'm having trouble after replacing the spring on it the other day, (I'll get to it but not today) Victa Mayfair with the metal carby which is so simple. Though friends own a local mower shop and were quick to point out the problem from a photograph I took and they really are a simple carburettor until you lose the needle in 4 inches of grass. New needle, new white cover with new primer and new o'ring are sitting in my kitchen (don't ask, I won't lose it in there). I was shocked though when the owner explained how to set the float height by adjusting the brass insert where the needle goes, he'd given me another cover with good primer bulb but it was a cheap after market unit he found in his stock (and gave it to me free saying it was used but in good condition) but somehow I cracked the fuel plastic nipple inlet slipping the fuel line back on. His son gave me another new unit better quality yesterday and set the float level with a file on the plastic needle, they've changed.
When did brass needles disappear? Yes, I'm feeling old!
I purchased the Metering Lever from [Censored] and installed the metal needle and the Metering Lever into the Carby.
I pumped the Primer bulb 5 times. It started on the 3rd pull.
I checked the RPM on Startup with the Throttle on Run. The RPM fluctuated between 3020 - 3040 - 3060.
After 30 minutes of cutting the Lawn. The RPM fluctuated between 3120 - 3140 - 3160.
I Turned Off the Fuel Tap and the Lawnmower ran normally until 1-2 sec before it cut out where it revved a little bit higher, maybe 100 rpm higher. So, I don't think there is an Air leak. But you guys might need to advise.
I Turned the Fuel Tap back On, Pumped the Primer Bulb 5 times, where it took about 10 pulls to start. The RPM fluctuated between 3120 - 3140 - 3160.
After a few minutes of running normally. I turned the Lawnmower Off normally by putting the Throttle to Off. I then tried to restart the Lawnmower. The Throttle was set to Run, and it started after 2 pulls. The RPM indicated was 3120 with no fluctuations.
So, when I get a chance again, I need to retry and also leave the Lawnmower off for a bit longer maybe 10-15 minutes to see what happens.
I don't think I fixed it yet, I have probably eliminated a possible sticky needle. I still need to set the throttle just past the Cold start spot to start when cold. This never used to be the case originally and it would always start on first pull. So even though I have replaced the Diaphragm and Orings on the Carby (Carby Kit). Maybe the Control Spring and Return Spring are not working Properly.
My next test will be to remove the Decompression Valve, block the hole and try to start the Lawnmower Cold and then when hot after 30 minutes to check compression and see if the Decompression Valve is faulty.
I pumped the Primer bulb 5 times. It started after about 10 pulls of the Cord with the Decompression Valve removed. (Not what I expected)
Whist the lawnmower was running I still had the Decompression Valve connected to the black hose, it would cause the valve to close.
I run the lawnmower for about 30 minutes when it run out of fuel. (I forgot to fill Fuel Tank).
When I filled Fuel Tank, I noticed that fuel was leaking from the Primer Bulb hole.
I presume this means that even with the new metering lever in place it didn't stop the fuel from over filling and coming out of the bulb.
I had to tap on the white Primer Cap to get it to stop flowing through the Primer Bulb hole.
Whilst the Lawnmower was hot , I checked Compression, it felt about the same amount of compression as it is cold.
So now, i am curious as to why it leaked fuel through the Primer Bulb, I will reinstall the Original Victa Primer Cap as maybe the aftermarket Primer Cap bought through Amazon is no good. I may keep using the aftermarket Diaphragm.
Any ideas, as to why without the Decompression Valve it took 10 pulls to start from cold and why it overflowed.
Harry are you saying you removed the decomp and obviously put a spark plug in the hole. If you can start it like that it needs new rings, it should give a big kickback
Harry are you saying you removed the decomp and obviously put a spark plug in the hole. If you can start it like that it needs new rings, it should give a big kickback
You are probably on the right path, as I didn't think it would give me a kickback.
More info.
Day 2 later on,
As I was getting nowhere. I decided to pull apart the Carby and see what was happening.
Upon re-installation I found it was jamming on the Kill switch Pin. This originally occurred quite a while ago before I got it working but didn't think it was an issue now.
After trying to adjust the throttle cable and throttle cable screw (near Filter housing), I decided to leave it out. But leave the Kill switch hole open.
After Priming 5 times and pulling the pull cord 3-5 times it would start but now rev up to 4200 rpm.
So , I get the feeling it has some thing to do with the Carby and Throttle Cable setup and compression.
But I am about to give up, i think it is beyond me. I don't know what to do next.
And as I have an older green base 2 Stroke Lawnmower, I am better off pulling the old green base Motor and installing it on the newer Victa base/Covers with its 4 Blade setup. This motor always starts first try and doesn't give me any issues when hot.
The Powertorque motor will not kickback with the spark plug in the decomp hole ,Victa made Powertorque motors that never used a decomp the hole was never drilled or threaded in the head on some Victa mowers .
Kickback is usually felt when you try and start the motor without the blade plate fitted as the blade plate acts as a flywheel also the spinning mass is reduced on a Victa 24 with a V belt to the cutter plate.
I even made a video showing no kickback on a Powertorque without the blade plate fitted but the boss on the crank was slightly heavier than standard because the mower was a 460 utility
.
The compression hot sounds ok if you can still feel a fair amount of compression so you can put the decomp back in.
Just sounds like a carby issue, if the kill switch is playing up buy a new rubber for the wire.
If fuel comes out the primer bulb it means the needle and seat in the carby are not shutting off and the fuel level in the carby gets too high and fuel leakes out the primer ,fix the needle and seat so it shuts off and has a good seal when the fuel is at the right level and this will stop fuel leaking out the primer bubble.
Video below at the end shows how to test the needle and seat to see if it's sealing when closed, without a pressure tester you will need a hose connected and blow air down the fuel inlet to see if it's shutting off.
