OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Victa Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers VC-160 Restoration

Actually, i could get them in monday, i have to drop her off before i go to the coast.

Ok cool to easy.My mobile number is 0403556783.Sunday is no good for me as I have to go to Sydney and pick up a heap of mowers myself, and parts. Mainly for Victa 18's.One Sheerline and a stack of Model 5 parts mainly bases as I the ones I have here are buggered.Saturday and Monday are good days for me.
Thanks

No worries, I'll let you know when i have them for you.

Thanks for the advice bob.That would work with the cracks.The only big problem is there are 2 very large holes one is where the top handles goes.So naturally the handle is missing as well.That's why I believe I would have to fibre glass it.

Hello Ty I started to pull the VC engine down.It is just a complete waste of my time.Started to get the crank case apart it is just completely full of rust.The crank is just brown and has all those nice rusty spots of flaky rust over it.So I can only imagine how bad the bore is.I will tomorrow pull the rest of the crank case apart,but I do feel it will just be very little usable parts inside.Don't even think the crank case will be usable as it has taken a lot of prising apart,and I'm really only doing damage to it.So if you do have another engine I will take you up on that offer, as I would prefer to rebuild something that still have signs of life.I do believe that this engine has already gone to the God Of Victa.May it rest in pieces.Also do you know what sort of colour to do the base in?I'm a bit confused as when I cleaned it down it was like a charcoal grey on the outer part and green where the motor sits.Is this right?Also does any body have the white fuel tap? As trying to get the old fuel off it the end broke of it.I have black ones but would prefer the white one.
Thanks

Jeffrey, I will make sure to keep a MKII aside, and bring it in this week, i have one here that should not take to much to get up and running. as for the colour, that is a mystery plaguing a few people, i am taking a small section in to the paint shop soon to try and get a match, the actual colour is what you find inside, the outside grey is what happens due to sun fading. i will have a look for a white tap, but i'm not sure if i have on at this point.

BTW, the VC badge went across a range of mowers, i believe it was phased out in 76/77 when the VC was dropped from the mustang and sports. The VC-160 was given 3 releases, 1970, 71 & 72 and was the premium model, it was dropped in 73 when the new premium model was released, the VC-Mustang, along with the mustang came the VC-Sports, and the re-designed VC-125, which was now modeled as a 125cc version of the VC-Sports.

Hi Ty.Need some suggestions on how to remove the flywheel of the VC motor you brought around to me on Saturday. Doesn't matter what I try it just doesn't want to come off.Tapped a thread into the holes on top and used a pulley,All that did was pull the bolts out threads and all.Then trying to do that again ended up snapping the bolt off in the top of the flywheel.Now can't get the remains of the bolt out.The only other flywheel I had this much trouble with was on a Model 2 Victa Rotomo.The only way I got that one was to break up the ignition plate underneath then destroy the the flywheel and then cut the remains off with an angle grinder.Not real keen on doing this in a similar way. HELP?! I'm running out of ideas. Have already spent 5 hours on it so far.I'm starting to run out of patients.A giant ball pane hammer is starting to look good.Then I could smash it off.Problem with that is I could do damage onto the top of the motor.Help any body if you have any ideas.Please let me know.
Thanks let's help save this VC Mark 2 motor before the hammer of deconstruction finds it.

My standard way, and I think the traditional way, is to tap the holes, apply a force within the capability of the puller threads, then bump the center of the puller (directly over the end of the crankshaft) with a hammer. You shouldn't expect to get them off just with the puller screws, the bump with the hammer is essential unless it isn't on tightly.

Having said that, I pulled my B&S flywheel off not long ago just with the puller screws, by accident. Was just about up to the preload I wanted, and it jumped off with a loud bang without any use of the hammer. That is common with the B&S, but I think many other engine types require the bump to make it happen. The same applies with 2 or 3 jaw gear pullers: apply a decent load, then bump the end of the puller screw. Trying to get things off with sheer preload is abusing the puller, plus it often writhes around and doesn't pull straight if you try to do it that way.

I have always used a 3 jaw puller, spray some WD40 or similar and a couple half decent hits with a rubber mallet around the edges, smack the crank one as well using short piece of broom handle or similar [whatever isnt steel and fits in the gap} before attaching the puller.
put a small amount of tension on the puller spray some more WD40, have a smoke and crack a beer, finish beer and tighten puller to remove flywheel. never broken one doing this never had to do more than that either and ive removed some very hard ones that mates have stuffed with all day.

P.S coffee and coke are acceptable subsitutes for beer and so is CHIVAS REGAL
and if you dont smoke twiddle your bloody thumbs for 5 minutes.

HaHaHa.... Emmo!!

I have found (once you manage to drill out the snapped bolt, and re-thread the hole) that if you put the puller on, and ad tension (not too much, just get the pressure on) then soak with WD-40 or Penetrene as Emmo mentioned, it should slowly come free using both Grumpy s method, and a suitable tire lever or long Flathead screw driver.

I.E.

WD-40, Wait, Apply Pressure, WD-40, Wait, Slightly up pressure, Insert lever under lip of flywheel, Slowly work your way around the flywheel, in 1cm steps, lighly tapping the lever with a hammer each time, WD-40, Wait, Bump puller, then go areound with the lever again, upping the pressure slightly each new lap.

thats a good point better off tracking down another one.
i didnt even notice the broken fins when i saw the pic.
id bin it

Thanks guys for sending in the helpful hints.None of which worked.That puppy was really stuck.So the ball pain hammer of destruction come out.

As you can see from pictures.Then very carefully used an angle grinder to make a grove into the center piece then carefully again with a cold cheisel cracked the centre piece.All in all minamal damage done and now I can service ignition and replace flywheel.

Sometimes you just have to be a bit rough to get the job done.Nothing else was working but at least I got there in the end.

ROFLMAO

reminds me of .........well me really

if it wont come apart break the f@%king thing and get another one [applies to almost everything really]

After I got it apart I could see that there was no way it was going to come off the way it should.The pin and the shaft had that much rust on it.I still have to clean a bit more rust of the shaft.So I guess it was the only way of getting it off.I was happy that the flywheel wasn't that good.Didn't have no problems in breaking it.I did when I had to do the same with a Model 2 Rotomo.That was very sad.A very good flywheel that one was.

Wow! I'm glad i chucked in that extra flywheel with it, i'd feel pretty crap right now otherwise, if you need any other parts (Key, Cam, etc.) let me know, i should have some here.

MMMM, Being a bit lazy here, (by not looking back at prior posts) but a crank case full of ice water or over night in the bait freezer and a gas burner around the flywheel centre the next day would have got that off I reckon...(sorry the fitter in me coming out). How's is the crank for tru now? bent? Might be a wrecker now...

That is what I was worried about to.Was pushing on the bore side wasn't keen on pushing the other side.With it being as stuck as it was it would have broken for sure.Ty thanks man I don't need a key for it as I have one here of the old sized motor.Not sure about the cam yet I haven't tried to remove it yet,still got rust to remove and lube the shaft before I do that. I did have to remove points and ignition plate when getting old flywheel centre off.Now I have no workshop manual so what are the points cap suppose to be and what is the best way to get the timing right?

Perhaps whip the plug out and spin her over, set something up to judge your eye against it, it wont have to be bent much to make it U/S....

Geez hope i never strike one that stubborn, i would bin it.


I wiggled one off by hand tonight. I think ive only ever threaded and pulled one. Usually a good soaking with WD40 and a couple of screwdrivers sorts them.


Dont hit the end of the crank with a hammer, i bought a tilt a cut that someone had damaged the crank thread on, was quoted $75 for a die nut. In the end the guy down at the mower shop let me bring the machine down and borrow his die nut to chase the thread. Did the nut up rather carefully and its never missed a beat since.

Hope you have better luck with the rest of it.