OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions On Victa Ride On Mower Frames Victa 4012GXT

I just bought a Victa 4012GXT and I need all of the info I can get so I can get it going. Do you have workshop, parts and or owner's manuals for it? I looked all over for a model number but I think it's been removed. I believe it's manufactured by MTD so I looked on the seat bracket. It appears that there was a sticker there but it's gone. It has a 12.5 hp B&S I/C engine with a Tecumseh Peerless 6 speed transmission. Right click on picture and select view image to see it better.
Thanks.

Paul_S,

We have the owners manual which includes the parts list. This can be uploaded to the parts list and manuals area of the forum.

The workshop manual for the Briggs & Stratton motor can also be uploaded but need the model number and code.

Note that the Peerless transmission is already in the parts list and manual area of the forum.

Thanks Bruce. I'll subscribe and take everything you have.

B&S model 286707 type014001 code 9301294a

Paul_S,

I will upload the information today for the owners manual. The workshop manual has a lot of stuff just tell us what area you are looking at and we will upload that as well.

If you are ever chasing information just request and we will upload as quick as we can.

Thanks Bruce. I appreciate it.
At the moment I'm not sure if the supplied engine pulley is the correct one. My dear old Dad used to have a mower repair business and he thinks the drive belt is wrong too. The ignition has broken and I'd like to wire up an on - off switch and a push button start. The brakes also don't appear to be working.

Paul_S,

The owners manual is now uploaded for you ride on mower.

Bruce, I'll also need wiring info. The engine has a plug with 2 wires coming out of it and it's obvious where that goes but there's a black single wire coming from under the cover towards the cylinder head end and I have no idea where that goes. The loom has a 2 wire plug with 1 of the wires being purple and a yellow wire with a small strange looking plug. I don't know what they attach to.

I'm getting access denied when I try to get to the manuals.

Paul_S,

You need to subscribe to the area to get access and to do that you need to click My Stuff at the top of the forum.

Yeah, did all of that. It seems you have to log out and log in again.

I gather from the manual that the yellow wire with the strange plug is supposed to plug into something on the engine but I'd say the engine that came with the mower is a different model from standard. Do you have wiring info for the model Briggs engine mentioned above?

Paul_S,

Below is the parts list for the engine.

Parts List Model 286700

Thanks Bruce. I have that though and unfortunately it doesn't show me what I need to know. The yellow wire with the strange plug seems to be part of the isolating switches circuit but I just don't know for sure. Do you know if the armature has an earth wire or does it earth to chassis?

Any idea what that black wire coming from under the cowling connects to?

The single wire coming from up near the cylinder heaad should be your ignition kill, so if you earth it to the base while it is running it wil stop the engine.

The yellow wire reminds me of one I did up a while back I am pretty sure it was part of the charging circuit, We did need to put a diode in line with the charging circuit before the battery.

Thanks Joe.

Now I notice that it doesn't generate a spark so I guess the previous owner was lying about having started this replacement engine. If I'm not mistaken the engine will make spark when it's turning over and only earthing the armature will stop it. I tried a different spark plug with a reduced gap. So I guess the coil is shot. Is there a way I can test to see if the coil or armature is ok or not?

Completely disconnect the black wire from the coil, it may have rubbed through on the insulation under the blower housing. If still nothing, while you have the housing off clean and check the coil gap.

If the coil is confirmed dead, I am lead to belive 8-12hp single cylinder b&s engines share the same magneto.

The coil is dead. The previous owner had run battery power to the ignition kill wire.

Do you think Outdoorking will be able to help with a part? The idler pulley that keeps the tension on the drive belt is missing and no mower shop yet has been any help. They just say the Victa parts are unavailable and the Victa part number doesn't line up with any Murray part number. I'm told the machine was manufactured by Murray. The part number is 91179.

Paul_S,

If the number that you quoted is correct then I have it in stock just send me a PM and I will give you the cost.

Fitted a new coil and it has spark now. I also fitted a new ignition switch but the starter won't work off it. I had to hotwire it. It runs...but badly. I guess I need a new needle and seat plus a bowl gasket. It's leaking fuel from the carby. It's running rich and revs up and down.

Bugger, just saw this on eBay and thought of you http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Briggs-Strat...023QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

As for the carby its leaking over the top of the bowl, check your seat, etc as you have said. If the revs still hunt afterwards try adjusting your tuning.

Ha!! I didn't even think of looking on Ebay for one.

I dropped the bowl again and found the usual problem. Someone took it off and lost the gasket for the bolt. I reassembled it and now it's not getting any fuel. Guess I'll have to remove the carb and give it a cleanout.

Engine runs but still seems to be flooding. Governor keeps opening and closing. I can't see anything obiously wrong with the needle and float. Is there a place to measure with the bowl off to see if the float level is too high?

I don't know what has convinced you it is flooding. If it is hunting (surging up and down in speed by cycling the governor between its stops), that behavior means lean mixture. If it were rich it would slow down and emit black exhaust smoke with a characteristic smell of singed petrol. Engine speed might still vary, but not by slamming the governor between fully open and fully closed throttle. Instead it would be what is called 'rolling', varying in speed smoothly like a car with the hand-choke pulled out too far. Petrol running out the carburetor only means flooding if it is running over the top of the float bowl out of the overflow vent, or running out of the main jet into the venturi. A leak from the bottom of the float bowl only means a leaky float bowl.

it puffs a bit of black smoke when it surges and I can see it is spitting fuel out of the carby as I have the air cleaner off. I didn't run it very long so the new spark plug isn't readable yet but it was a bit wet when I checked it.

Paul_S,

Did this ride on mower come from a farm?

It's possibly from a farm but I don't know for sure.

I ran it again and this time it wasn't puffing black smoke but it's still spraying some fuel out of the carby inlet. I tried the mixture screw but it didn't make much difference. It might be lean as it backfired and stopped.

Paul_S,

Can you try running it without the muffler and see what happens?

OK. Will try it tomorrow.

What you called a backfire sounds like what the trade calls a spit. Essentially it blows back through the inlet manifold which results in a blast of petrol-air mixture puffing out of the carburetor inlet. It is often on fire as it puffs out. This is the main reason it is unsafe to do carburetor tuning experiments with the air cleaner removed.

Have you checked the ignition timing? Does the engine have normal compression? Spits can be caused by extremely lean mixture but they can also be caused by grossly incorrect ignition or camshaft timing. If you have a sheared flywheel key or a camshaft drive failure, much of this could be explained.

grumpy,

It could also be damaged valve seats or valves. In the past I have seen valve seats come loose which can cause the problem and if the valves are pitted will cause a bad seal as well.