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#109601 06/12/20 07:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,086
Likes: 220
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
In the last couple of days I have had a Ryobi blower and a Homelite snipper dropped off here. Both will fire up but won't continue to run. I usually just replace the carby and this solves the problem I don't bother pulling them apart and trying to get them working because it can be very time consuming and I don't really have the time to spend on them. What is the general consensus on this repair or just replace?

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 956
Likes: 20
Moderator
Hi Norm,
I'm with you on this, replace the carby and the problem's solved in about 15 mins.

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,526
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AVB Offline
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Most times it is simply a harden metering diaphragm but to me it seems techs are getting lazier every day and keep falling for those cheap Chinese carburetors.

Of course if it a cheap curve shaft model by the time you put on a carb and tack on a little labor it is cheaper to just replace them here.

Joined: Jan 2016
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Likes: 220
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi BT,
replacing the carb is far less time consuming than putting a kit through them and then if it doesn't work you have wasted your time and you still end up replacing the carb
Hi AVB,
I find anything to do with these blowers/trimmers is usually a complete waste of time because even after you have got them working properly they are still sell for about $50 anyway. I usually only look at them to help somebody out

Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,101
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SENIOR TECHNICIAN
I agree Norm; if it is for your own use or a friend, repair; if for sale, scrap.

I usually don't even put a kit through - just replacing the metering diaphragm and cleaning the filter screen is usually enough

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
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I never thought of just replacing the diaphragm. That is mostly the only offender. Where is the filter mesh usually?


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 81
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
MF, the filter mesh is normall on the other side to the metering diaphragm - above the needle valve.

Normally they will run spot on with just the metering diaphragm changed. I only keep 3 types - zama c1u, zama c1q and walbro. I really should get another c1q type with the breather hole in the middle, but I have only needed this once on a stihl

This (along with fuel lines and filter as required) will get 85-90% of engines running.

Joined: Jan 2015
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AVB Offline
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Yes the screen is usually on the fuel pump diaphragm side. Those Mylar fuel pump diaphragms seldom need changing; although the screens may need it especially if they are those extra tight filtration versions. I have seen them to clog with no outward appearance and can't be cleaned.

I actually keep four different Zama metering diaphragms along matching gaskets in stock here. Of course the fourth one is the C1M. And the Walbro I keep a couple different ones one hand too.

Last edited by AVB; 07/12/20 11:48 PM.
Joined: Feb 2006
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What about the Irish Tillotson carb? I have an 89 Ryan engined Ryobi Lawn Hornet that got a kit fitted almost a decade ago and it goes like stink.


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 81
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
AVB, is the c1m the double barrel one they have in mac chainsaws? or the white topped one that are on echo?
I agree with the extra fine screens in some zama's - a real pain

MF, if you want to keep it going for years to come, buy a few full kits and put them in ambient dark storage - tillotsons seem thin on the ground even though they were the original creators of diaphragm carbies

Joined: Jan 2015
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AVB Offline
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Don't know if it is the same as Macs are nearly non exist here. The ones I'm working regular style cubes used on Stihl equipment.
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