You could extend the lead if you wanted to to try it. These coils are getting a bit hard to find these days as they were only used on the side pull full crank motors. This is why I am interested in seeing if I can get a PT coil to work on the full crank cradle. I do know the terminals are reversed but hopefully that won't be a problem. I will get to it one day.
What a damned pain in the a-hole. I ordered a new replacement coil from All Mower Spares a month ago and when I asked for an update on my purchase, they tell me their supplier didn't in fact have any to sell, so they're sorry for any inconvenience caused, but have refunded my money. Well they can stuff their sorries in a sack. Their online store said they had one in stock. I paid for it. Why wait until I ask them a month later to give me the update. How unprofessional. So I'm back to having to source another coil and then wait for that to arrive. Sheeeeeesh. I'm so sick of the lack of professionalism in today's society. Seems to be rampant across the board these days.
I looked at the time, it said their supplier is GA for that part GA have not had that part on their books since at least 2015. And it hasn’t been on their website for at least 3 years.
So to say it’s the SUPPLIER fault is bullsh*t. It is THEIR fault.
I am on the phone to EMPR computer parts (Toshiba registered preferred supplier). I ordered an internal screen cable 21/9/20. 4-6 week lead time. Turns out they cancelled the order on the 14/10 and never told me.
Luckily I pulled the laptop down and did a temp fix. For a 5 year old nearly $2000 laptop at the time, that is complete and utter bullsh*t.
Will be going HP next time, who apparently keep parts 10-15 years.
HP don't make the prettiest equipment, but that leaves other better reasons to buy their products. I bought a pack of 5 blank DVDs with individual cases and fancy packaging (forget brand) claiming it's good for 100 years archiving footage and after a decade in my drawer they wouldn't record. My blank DVDs made by HP that came in a 50 pack stack, still record fine after having them about the same amount of time.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Dan, If you get super stuck I can send you one but I would do it with great reluctance because I hate feeding that bitch at Aus Post. I have vowed several times that I would never under any circumstances ever post anything again using that thieving mob
So, the saga continues. I got the new replacement coil in the mail from outdoorking.com (is that affiliated with this site?) and anyway, the coil that arrived has a different wiring setup than my original and I'm wondering how I should got about connecting it together.
Hi Dan, This is going on a sidepull from memory and this coil from what I see requires an ignition module to get spark. Did your motor have a module fitted, most did but some of the later ones had the electronic coil. I will check it out in the morning to see which wires need to be connected. I have to pull the flywheel off a motor in the morning and after cleaning up and finding new homes for everything I have to go looking for my puller. At a guess I would think the green wires connect to the black wire from the coil with the round connector. These can be connected to one of the coil mounting screws. The other wires are then connected together
I have a module on it yes. I know how the wires normally connect, but the new coil has wires on it that my old coil didn’t and my original wiring doesn’t connect straight onto the new coil wires, so I’d have to do some rewriting of the ends to be able to join them and I’m not too clever with such things. Here are the two coils; my original one being the one of the right.
I hate electrics with a passion, but had to put in a new alarm system battery - and one of the terminals had to be cut off due to corrosion. Did it in 5 minutes - not hard at all
First cut the old bits off, 2 strip the wire - probably a 1.0 thickness. Note, turn the whole crimper to slice through the plastic coating right the way around, then pull outward to get it off.
Put on the correct size connector and crimp it closed using the equivalent size at the top (blue connector = crimp location beside blue dot)
Hi Dan, the only difference is the original coil has spade terminals on it and the new one has wires protruding. Cut the ends off and connect them up with terminal connectors or do as Tyler suggested
Hi Dan, Go down to supercheap and buy one of these .........If I can do it, anyone can
Thanks Tyler. I already had one and have done it now. Cheers The design of the coil is a bit of a nuisance though, because you have to mind how you attach it to the e-coil as the wiring can interfere with the cowling.
(A SHORT TIME LATER)
Woohoo, I managed to get a spark, so that's one issue solved! Tomorrow I'll see if I can get her started. I was too tired to get into it today so looking forward to testing it.
Just so you know why the wires are different Shannon, the new coil is from the earlier cup starter type motors with the coil mounted inside the flywheel, not outside as it is on the sidepull.
I went to test the pull and something was causing a major clunk. So I pulled the cover and cowl off yet again and saw that the magnets on the flywheel were hitting the e-coil, which I didn't think could move, but sure enough they had just a couple millimetres of play when I loosened the bolts. I tightened the bolts with a gap enough for the magnets to pass by. The last thing to attach was the new cutting blades. I was really happy that she started first go and gave it a little test mow. Worked just fine, if not a little fast on the revs, but I can adjust that on the carby. All in all I'm pretty happy with the result and proud of myself for accomplishing this project. Thanks for all the advice guys.
In case you are wondering, you adjust top end speed via the port on the cowl the rear vac hose plugs onto. The knob on the carby only does idle adjustment