OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Rover Ride On Mower Rover Colt 8 brake pad replacement

I'm trying to replace the brake pads on a Rover Colt 8. The manual is quite clear on what to do but appears to be missing information.
I probably could have kept the pad on the caliper assembly since it wasn't as worn and saved myself all of the trouble. The pad on the arm is not an issue as it is easily accessible.

If you look at my photos, you can see there is two extra holes that don't appear in the parts diagram (the shot below with the red dots) - the rivets that hold the pad onto the brake pad assembly caliper (A10108) poke through the side of the mower and out of these two holes. To remove the assembly, I had to take of the wheel and then drill out to break the rivets. This is not mentioned in the manual which is a little odd.




The second issue is the rivets that come with the brake pads (CHD1733) are not long enough to securely hole the pad to the caliper. If using the rivets specified in the manual 73AS 5-5 then they stick out and match the Original. Problem is, you cannot slide the assembly back between the chassis and the disc brake. The disc brake needs to move. The issue with this is it hasn't been moved since 1996 and won't budge. This also isn't in the manual (which has the disc brake facing the wrong way - it only appears as if it would slide toward the chassis and not the other end judging by the slot to slide of the key).




What have others done to replace the brake pads?

1) use the CHD1733 rivets and some epoxy glue and slide the assembly back into place? Or is it okay to have pad a little loose since it is sandwiched between the caliper and the disc so can't fall out?
2) thread the caliper holes and use a small bolt to attach the pad?
3) remove the disc brake somehow? Penetrene/heat I guess but since you can't buy replacements I don't really want to touch this.

I guess most people just don't worry about the brakes that much!

On a serious note, looks to me like the same setup the rancher 2 had, in that the brake disk just rides against the frame side and the arm side pushes against it. there is a set screw in the brake disk so it won't float like you would think.

Believe me, brake disks are a problem on greenfield just as much as most rovers, I've cut them off before. That one doesn't look in bad nick, so with a bit of heat and some careful prying you may get it loose.

You're other option might be to space the frame side pad out so it almost touches the disk, then it should all work as intended i think.

I have had trouble with the rivets in the aftermarket pad kits too, the rivet just pulls through the factory hole. You could use a bolt, but the idea of an alloy rivet is as the pad wears away if the rivet hits the disc its no big deal, whereas steel on steel will damage the disc. I would see if you can find some bigger alloy rivets

Thanks, nath.

Taking out the set screw and some gentle thumping with a hammer hasn't made the disc budge at this point. Which way does the disc go? Towards the side it is near? Is there a key slot on both sides?
I've ordered some rivets from NHTB in Newcastle - hopefully these will be the correct size.

Well that didn't go well

Heat + some gently tapping and the disc moved but is now touching the bolts that hold the bearing housing. I can't get it back the other way.
It would be interesting to know how on earth Rover assembled the rear axle.

Looks like I'll have to take the belts off, the chain, the engine, the wheels, and take it to a shop.

They would have put it together the same way it would come out.. everything can move on the shaft, when new and not rusty the brake disc would have just slid on the shaft, as would the bearings. you just put the shaft through one side, put the brake disc on and put it through with the other bearing on the outside. there will also be a key way in the brake disc.

When that happens I use a multitude of screwdrivers, pry bars and cold chisels to wedge it back across the shaft. if you tapped it one way it will go the other, the problem is getting leverage on it.

It looks like the brake disc (like the rear wheels) only has a key slot on one side which prevents it sliding the other way. Attempt 500 on sliding the disc back into place didn't work. I'll try again with screw drivers later this week.

No go, there isn't enough clearance to get enough leverage.

I've taken off the wheel, the flangette bearing and half the flange bracket.
How would I go about taking off the actual bearing? The other half on the bracket wiggles but won't budge. The bearing can freely spin. The collar/race? part won't budge and with the 3 cuphead bolts sticking out, a puller can't get enough grip.
There isn't any grub screws holding it on to the shaft.

Is there a trick to it or should I cut the bolts off to get more room to use a bearing puller?

Hi Roger,
I'm thinking you might have to make up a puller that bolts to the 3 bolts in the flange. There is also the chance that pulling on them may bend the flange. It is obviously just rust binding it up. What is that pin in the shaft, that may also cause problems when you get the bearing to it so make sure it is below the outside of the shaft before you get the bearing stuck on it

The pin norm is just the mark left behind by the locking collar grub screw.

I spent several days replacing the same type of bearings in a header last week. Because of the eccentric locking collar the bearing always has a gap between the shaft and inner race. water gets in there and they lock on. if all else fails the bearing itself is not terribly expensive, i have in the past either split the outer race or broken the ball cage inside the bearing to separate the bearing and then cut the inner off later

Hi nath,
that certainly is another way of doing it

Finally got it all back together! The bearing lock collar came off easily enough but the bearings themselves didn't budge. The solution was to cut the cuphead bolts + flange + bearings using a Dremel, lightly sand the shaft and replace with new.
My advice to anyone replacing the brake pads: DON'T! unless they are really worn. The pad on the arm is easy, but due to the manual being incorrect, the disc pad takes a lot of time and money.

A06235 (bearing flange) is a pressed steel 47MS bearing housing. A suitable replacement can be purchased cheaply from Collier Miller.
A01396 (flangette bearing) is a NSK EN204DR bearing (new part #AEL204). A suitable replacement is AEL204012NBR from Collier Miller.


The CHD1733 rivets from GA Spares does not have enough gripping strength to hold the pads on the caliper or brake arm. As the original Rover manual says, use 73 AS 5-5 rivets which so far, appear to be a good fit. If using 73 SS 6-5 rivets listed in the 2003 updated manual, they won't fit the countersunk hole in the pad - you will need to widen these.


The brake disc also has the key slot on both sides it can in theory move along the shaft over the woodruff key in both directions.


The brake disc is a little lollopy, I'll take the setscrew out and tweak it a bit before giving the brakes a final adjustment. Overall, I'm quite happy I could do it myself without separating the rear mudguard assembly and taking it into a shop.

Well done RogerWilco, always a lot of satisfaction when you beat it yourself, demoralizing if you have to give up and take it to a shop

Thanks NormK. I've adjusted the brakes and the mower no stops which is very handy. Before you'd have to put your foot on the brake about 3 metres before you wanted to stop.
Changing the oil + new air cleaner + tweaking the carbo and she'll be right for another summer.