OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Victa 160 disassembly

G'day SR,
Can't find the UK Victa parts seller I've recommended before via Google - will have to run a search on my old ODK posts.

There is this mob, but it's not clear what bits they might have for the older models. http://www.victaspares.co.uk/

The head gasket is made from a special material; the later PowerTorque 160cc head gasket will fit, IIRC.

The base gasket is nothing special; gasket paper, or even cereal packet cardboard, will work just fine.


Tyler, the 'poppet valve' we refer to here, is the one in the deco valve, not the one used in the G4/LM carby.

Yep, these nuts often only respond to impact.
Which can also be applied by using a long ring spanner and a 2lb hammer, as we had to do in the old days...

Hi Norm

Tried Rattle, nothing doing. I think I need an air impact one day

Gadge, understood - usually think carby when hear poppet and victa in same sentence haha

Hi Tyler,
when I said rattle I meant air impact mine is a 1050nm and it has never let me down on a crank nut or bolt. My old 320nm just wouldn't cut the mustard on the Victa nuts. Only downside is with the big one is you can destroy sockets easily

Hi Norm

I have only ever used anything up to 340 ish, so that makes sense. My regular one doesn't normally have significant issues, but sometimes just won't touch it

Hi Gadge,

Thanks, that helps a lot.
Think I can get hold of a new piston and rings fairly easy but the gasket was illuding me so good to know I can use a powertorque one.

Took the piston off as picture and gave it a bit of a clean but presume that this is too far gone?

Bit confused what the shim is and why it's there, was underneath one of the rings. Is this normal?

Problem seems to have been at least partially caused by coking round the exhaust port.

Now looking at honing tools, and excuse to buy new tools.
What kind of grit do you use and presume it just needs a light going over to avoid oversizing it.

Also, what size are the engine nuts? Might as well take the engine off the body, will be easier and can give it a good clean.

Made some progress today, cleaned up head and cylinder ready to reassemble.

An impact gun would have been nice but working with limited set of tools although this has now expanded to some long angled needle nose pliers!


Thanks

G'day SR,
Yup, that one's 'had the Richard'. The Powertorque piston kits fit the earlier full-crank motors like yours, but not vice versa.
Yes; it's an 'expander ring'; which is no longer used, due to improvements in piston ring technology since the 1970s.
If you can find a local motorcycle workshop, chances are they'll have [or can refer you to someone who does] a suitable cylinder hone for this job. Good hones aren't cheap!
These nuts are [as are all on that mower] Imperial AF/SAE system fractional inch sizes.
For sure; but none of this advanced technology was available, back in the early days of Victa mowers.

Hi all.
I thought it was the other way Gadge, not backwards compatible. Rings a bell now I think about it.

Nice to see a good old back to basics Victa 160 repair refresher thread. A lot to learn /be reminded from here.

Hi Gadge,
A few years ago I was rebuilding a 1948 350 Enfield motor and somebody had fitted a Toyota piston to it, was all good till they tried to rotate the crank and the piston skirt came down and hit the crank. Believe it or not, instead of removing the piston to shorten it they cut the skirts back on each side with a hacksaw insitu. How did I know they used a hacksaw, the cuts were how it ended up cutting and I could see the teeth marks and I would say it was an 18 tpi blade. The motor was running because we went on several club rides before it gave up the ghost. Moral of the story is sometimes you can get away with murder regarding pistons

Think I can get a new piston and rings on ebay and victa spares has the powertorque head gasket.

Trying to keep cost low so any advice around honing at home welcome. Don't really want to pay labour charge for someone else to do it.

I guessed they were imperial but only have limited imperial sockets. Guessing its 5/8in as 15mm too small and 17mm too big.

Lots of questions I know..

G'day SR,

For the parts you need, it would be worth searching for 'Victa' in this FleaBay UK section; https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/Lawn-Mower-Parts-Accessories/82248/

As far as the crankshaft bearing condition is concerned, the critical bearing is the 'big end' rollers in the connecting rod. The crankshaft main bearings are standard radial ball types, and quite easily replaced. Not so with the big end.

From memory I paid $25 for my hone, always hard to justify if you are only ever going to use it once though

G'day Norm,
That's for sure! A well known expedient during WW2, when replacement motorbike/stationary engine pistons just weren't available, was to make a new piston out of hardwood - apparently red gum was the best timber...

Here's a vid of a Briggs running - with an Oak piston crown installed!

Hone tools seem to be cheap compared to paying for it to be done by someone else. Plus, would much rather learn a new skill and have the satisfaction of doing it myself. What kind of hone tool do you have NK? A ball hone or a 3 pronged one? Do you do it wet or dry? What grit?

Morning Shedrummager,
I'd use that piston, as compression comes from the rings and bore.I collected rings from old PTs and other Victas and swap them , long as they are not worn so thin.....
cheers
speedy.

Hi SR,
I use a 3 leg hone with 100mm long stones because you have to travel over the transfer ports and 100mm does it easily. Grit not sure, either 220 or 180, whatever was the cheapest on ebay at the time. I use oil on the stones and give it a good clean especially in the transfer ports one I have finished honing it.

Thanks speedy, gives me hope that the block is not completely unsalvageable!

Thanks NK, good to reaffirm what I've been looking at. Think the longer stones required to stop the snagging on the ports.

Have taken the crankcase off the body to give it a proper clean.
Rust on the cranks looks worse than previously observed. Will concentrate on getting that to a reasonable state before getting into honing/replacement parts.

Thanks to all who have replied to my constant questions, it's been a great help! I am quietly optimistic that this will turn into a fair runner but will take some time.

Deck looks in good condition at least

Lets hope the bearings aren't stuffed

What's the progress with this old girl

Sorry for not posting..
She's getting better (I hope).
Decided the right thing to do was strip the bottom end and see how bad the rust on the cranks was.
It was not good but buffed them with a wire wheel to get the loose stuff off, washed throughly now partially reassembled.

Got a honing tool and gave that a go, got the glaze off, not perfected the cross hatching but I think it'll be good.

Bearings were good, seals too. Reassembled with 2 stroke oil and crank seems smooth.

Gave blower housing a bit of wire wheel treatment and just painted it with rust converter for now.

Made new base gasket and now waiting for delivery of piston, rings and head gasket for final assembly, depending on the postman, maybe this weekend it'll be back together..

Picture of crank is before rust removal, looks bad but it's mostly surface rust.

You've been a busy bee. Progress looks very encouraging.
Wish I had table space like that. I can make some if I an determined enough.
That looks on track to becoming operational real soon.