I think its Alloy. Had quite a bit of trouble sourcing a replacement as the current batch of 5/8 inners was faulty around the country, poor fit apparently. I've managed to source a almost new one from Gumtree around the corner, pics look good, will pick up Thursday and hopefully i can reassemble the clutch.
Its been a pleasure stripping the machine and giving it a good clean. It's amazing how taking things apart makes things easier to understand. Will post some pics once its up and running again
Good luck with the project Alex,\. Yes It's always a mystery stripping a machine as you find unknown problems and can fix them........ and can make and as you say understand a better machine. speedy
........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Before you paint it slide it over your PTO shaft and if there is any slop or lateral movement you've bought yourself a dud and are wasting your time.
Currently all the new cast 5/8 clutches that are out there are known faulty units and it seems there is no positive outcome in sight as they all came from GA Spares who had them manufactured in China and we all know the situation there don't we ?
This why both George and Lincoln have invested in having batches turned up (not cast) to accommodate this current shortage. One day GA's will get this sorted but currently it's a stalemate and we're held to ransom with clutch halves at $160.
Cheers, BB.
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Just an update and some advice please I have replaced the inner clutch half, bearing, grub screws and cork The rebuild went fine... however I’m finding it hard to fine tune the clutch. It seems if I set it so when engaged the fork is vertical and there is a small gap between thrust plate and cone..THEN when disengaged, the reel is still spinning ever so slightly.
Is it just half turns to find that happy balance, I don’t want to over tighten the clutch thrust plate as to melt it when engaged.
When the clutch is engaged you should have no pressure whatsoever applied by the clutch fork and just enough clearance between the cone, pad and fork for free running, but nothing great either. I think that if you've had the engine off then you have a slight alignment issue with the engine being slightly off dead centre, thus the cone is ever so slightly grabbing the cork. This is always an issue when new cork is installed as the cork is at it's maximum thickness and rather grippy until it gets a tad glazed off with usage.
The other issue could also be a slightly worn end of the PTO transfer shaft where it is meant to fit snuggly into the thrust bearing and with some slop it will allow the PTO shaft and associated parts to be able to oscillate inside the bearing and create some grab in the clutch area. But first I'd look at your alignment.
The other thing I noticed was that your primary chain is probably a tad loose and requires a bit of adjustment of the slide block to reduce this somewhat. Not too much though as many folks seem to run their chain too tight and this then presents a whole lot of other issues.
Cheers, BB.
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Thanks BB In regards to engine alignment... excuse my ignorance, but isn’t that determined by the 4 engine bolts that secure the engine to chassis. Or is there some play, so I can align it better ? Any tips on alignment