Hi I have received an old and rusty Cox Orion, model 25J1, as a project. Nothings rotted out and everything seems to be there, the engine, steering and drive are not seized. But, the drive chain was running over the OUTSIDE of two pulleys on arms which are connected by a spring. The pulleys seemed redundant so I moved the chain to run on the INSIDE of them with the spring providing tension. However the chain now has no slack what so ever. Could the chain be wrong, it doesnt seem to sit down on the large drive sprocket too well, or my routing of it incorrect. Any photo of the correct routing would be helpful. Thanks
Hi Sowerberry, Welcome here, I don't know anything about the Cox setup but if you have the chain fitted where you think it should go then that will be the way it has to go, then there will be an adjuster somewhere to slacken off the chain. If the adjuster won't allow any more adjustment then I'm guessing the PO fitted a chain that is too short or if as you say it is riding up on the pulley then the chain might be the wrong pitch or too narrow. They could have tried to fit a motorcycle chain and that is why they gave up
That sounds as though the chain is probably very worn and has been shortened. Yes the pulleys go on the outside, the spring holds tension. I don't have a diagram but worked on a few over the years. Last time I bought a cox chain it was about $30 from memory. part number am018 according to the manual I found.
Thank you gents for the prompt replies. Yes I think the best way is for the pulleys on the outside. I have included a photo to show what's been done and another showing how high it was riding on the large sprockets - and yes I think a new chain is needed so will order same soon. One last shot showing the brake lever where the chain has worn into it, so will need to make sure it stays clear when all is put back together. Thanks again.
Something is wrong with the chain pitch or it is too narrow , a worn chain would not sit up on the sprocket that way. It seems to fit on the small sprocket because it is narrower
Nah norm, looks like the right chain, on large diameter sprockets like that that is what happens when the chain links wear and your pitch gets longer, you can see it fits on the far side.
Hi all, Have purchased a new chain as I considered the other one US. In the meantime pulled the head off to check the condition of everything there. Someone had obviously been there before hand as all the head bolts were relatively loose and one was missing. More importantly the inlet valve seat was hanging from the valve stem after parting company from the block. I think I will remove the valve, freeze shrink the seat and JB Weld it back in wilth some staking for good measure.
Hi, I was told it was a non runner and so didnt try to start it - just as well I expect. There is slight side to side movement, maybe half a mm, Having no experience disassembling engines I am loath to redo the rings even though there is no scoring on the bore itself. I suspect the engine may have overheated as some stage ?? judging by the amount of stuff blocking the cooling fins etc - maybe the gasket went but they continued to try and use it ??. Another pic, this time of head. Best go and see if 'Taryl fixes all' on youtube has any hints. Haha.
Gadge, Q. What does the current Harley Davidson toolkit consist of? A. A credit card
True, dat!
Mind you, I have had to make use of 'roadside assistance' for my Guzzi Cali once, after a starter relay failed on the second last day of a Tour de Tas. I have RACV's Total Care, which includes towing of bikes [using a purpose-built motorcycle transporter ute, in the Greater Melb area at least].
A fellow Guzzista mate towed the bike off the boat at Port Melbourne, and I just parked it and pulled out the mobile phone to call the RACV Motorcycle Towing Service... Moto One in Oakleigh were able to sort it out straight away, replacing the 'known to be crap' Siemens relay with a Bosch one they had in stock, which was great service.
To return to our muttons a bit here,
Originally Posted by Sowerberry
Found an old thread that deals with displaced valve seats. Not sure of how to link to old threads but here is the url
Hi Gadge, Whilst on motorcycles, do you have any knowledge on written off machines. I have a bloke pestering me about wanting to rebuild his 2016 Harley that has been written off. He is talking about getting a new frame from the States and swapping everything across. I'm not sure what has to be done top get it back on the road and how a new vin plate is issued. Any thoughts?
Vic has two levels of vehicle write-offs [some States, NSW for one, only have Level 2];
1. 'repairable write-off', where it is possible to repair and re-register the vehicle, but there are quite a few VicRoads hoops to jump through to do it. These become 'inspected repairable write-offs' after re-registration, but they are still listed on the register [aka WOVR].
2. 'statutory write-off' - vehicle can only be parted-out; the VIN is cancelled, so the vehicle can never be re-registered in Oz.
Personally, I wouldn't touch it, as my bike mech tells me that even Level 1 write-off repairs can be a real minefield, particularly as far as paperwork costs go. And that one sounds like it's Level 2.
VicRoads say that they don't permit motorcycles to be re-framed, which would rule out swapping the usable bits to a new OEM frame; but AFAIK it is still legal [with the right paperwork] to fit an engine from a wrecked bike into a custom-made frame, so that might be a loophole.
Would still cost plenty though, as it will need to undergo VASS certification [the old 'Engineer's Certificate' for modified/custom builds].
Hi Gadge, I knew it was near impossible to do anything much once they were listed as written off. He says he can buy it back for a couple of thousand and it only has about 4000 ks on it. Motor and box have to be worth a lot more than that
Chain is all done with help from above, thank you.
Now onto the mower deck itself which is proving more of a puzzlement. I had the front collection of linkages off for painting and now even with photos once refitted cant get the deck to engage / disengage or height adjuster to operate properly. It doesnt seem to make any difference if the deck is hooked up or not. This assemblage of levers, links etc and coordination their movement between engaging the cutter and deck height has me baffled.
My first query is, do the points on the Cutter Housing Connecting link, arrowed, move or are they firmly tightened up ? Mine move, in fact all the bolted points on this assembly ( housing link and axle link) flop about and the bottom bar of the link can easily be pulled out of any kind of alignment (Pic 2).
Second query, if everything just needs tightening up is there a particular angle needed for fitting the cutter link to the axle link, mine varies. see Pic 3 an 4.
Any ideas or photos of how it SHOULD be setup much appreciated. The same setup applies to early model Stockmans or Orions and possible others.
