Haha, you did a number on that one. It makes me wonder why the manufacturers don't give this things a coat of anti seize when they are throwing the together. It might take them half a second and some peanuts.
Sapper, they couldn't care less about servicability. Like the Victa cowl screws - if they put a drop of grease on the bolts they wouldn't be a nightmare
If Norm was just a regular customer without plenty of spares - Rover would have just sold another blade boss
Wouldn't a little heat help? Now that is heavy enough material you should been able to remove it in one piece. I have remove things like that without even hurting the crankcase seal.
Here I have pulleys that refuse come off too especially drive pulleys on Cub Cadet ZTR where they apparently didn't use anti-seize either. Either that or just plain poor quality metals. With the bearing separators that have I can't break the rust seizure even I can get to the separation point. They so seized that I end up destroying the stamp metal pulley in the process. It takes lots of heat, the puller, and a high powered impact gun to even remove the pulley hub. If it was machined pulley I most likely could get it off without damaging it.
So much force so that l illiterately stripped the forcing screw. Now of course it was a cheap Chinese puller setup from Harbor Freight. I got a new American made forcing screw and had the upper puller bar re-machined for the new larger screw and haven't it out yet. You notice I said "yet". Give me enough time I probably strip it too but I think any other country made forcing screw is probably better that Chinese one except maybe one made in India.
AVB, I have plenty of those bosses here from dead motors, I just cut the shaft off with a grinder and put the boss in the press and they come out easily. Most times I can get them off it was just that this one wouldn't move and I couldn't be bothered wasting time on it, When I cut it with the grinder and got the first section off the boss was very hot and the puller still wouldn't move it and even after I cut it through into the keyway slot and split the side off it it was still a struggle to get it off with the puller and it fought all the way to the end
Then it sorta like here where I know I going those stamped pulley so I just go ahead and destroy them then put on a new pulley. Sometimes it is just the best way. Just can't wasting a lot time on that is easily replaced.
Here those Cub Cadet engine drive pulleys have to come off just to get the engine off.
That is also something that does my head in, dumb manufacturing, why in gods name do manufactures put a motor on a base and then put the pulley on knowing well that one day the motor will have to come off. The hole should allow the motor to be lifted off with the pulley still on so you can put it on the bench and work on getting the pulley off without all the other bits in the way. Manufacturers are just ignorant bastards
Just on the same Cub Cadet ZTR there is an electric PTO sticks on for the reason, lack of anti-seize. What worst is that there is no puller for it as it is the bearing the sticks and the clutch has rounded shoulders. I am look into making my own puller just to figure to one strong enough to fit in the limited space. The last one I had to remove I end cutting it off with Ace/Ox cutting torch. Then pulled the bearing. A half day time wasted for something that should only taken 1/2 hr to do.
Yes they need some field techs in the design department so these thing are field repairable without half day or longer on a simple repair.
I feel for you AVB, trying to do this sort of work and trying to explain it to the customer. It is easier for the bigger shops, they don't care they just say to the customer take it of leave it, with your sort of operation it is far more difficult
I think the hub would have come off a lot easier Norm if you had of used a 20mm puller bolt and a thicker puller plate,I use a home made 14 mm plate and that has bent slightly, next time if I make another I would use thicker steel.
The two bolts that go into the bearing clamp break eventually when using standard bolts but I just replace them when they stretch.
I've tried many different ways to get the blade plate hub off ,except a jack hammer or air hammer ,I was using a fine thread on the puller bolt because of the mechanical advantage of tightening the bolt and getting high tension on the puller but I have striped too many bolts that way so I use a large coarse threaded bolt ,it just takes more effort to tighten or just a longer spanner so you get a greater perpendicular distance then less force is required.
Hi Max, Yes I had to make new rods yesterday to fit in the puller because they are 3/8th unc and I only had 10mm rod here. The amount of pressure I had on it I thought was going to break the puller and from memory I paid about $60 for it and I wasn't going to destroy that all because of a stupid boss that I had plenty of in a box that owe me nothing. I have thought about some sort of porta power head I could adapt to it but for the number of times I can't get them off it probably isn't worth the expense I have always used angle iron on these pullers and they are multi drilled so I can use then for all sorts of pullers, not just the bearing puller, the angle gives it a lot of strength although it does have a bit of a bend in it these days
Hi Norn, I don't think there is any chance of breaking the bearing clamp ,that's why I use two standard bolts .(the ones with the orange arrows in pic above)
The standard bolts will stretch and break before the clamp can be damaged.
The clamp I have I paid $5 for, but it was high quality ,it was just a clearance item being sold off.
I usually get a heap of pulling force on the puller then put the side of the boss on solid steel then a few hammer blows on the opposite side and they always pop loose, although If you hit the boss too hard it can split down the side.
I feel for you AVB, trying to do this sort of work and trying to explain it to the customer. It is easier for the bigger shops, they don't care they just say to the customer take it of leave it, with your sort of operation it is far more difficult
It because I have been on both sides of this issue. I had that fuss a little at to tell me if I knew how then I should just do it and then told me to leave. So I did both. As far explaining it to customer it is kinda easy as usually it is their tech that brings the hard to do stuff and they don't ask questions.
Now I just need to design the new puller I need and either make the prototype tool, modify a commercially available one, or get my machine shop neighbor to make the item from my design plans. He is still trying to figure where I got my CAD program from. Funny he doesn't have a problemwith my designs but of course he making items for SpaceX which is a lot tougher; though, we sometimes have to do redesigns as actually application can be a little than just thinking about it.
Just wondering if anybody has tried one of these hydraulic pullers. I would have to make something up that would fit around the shaft because usually it is too difficult to hold/keep the 3 jaws in place while trying to operate the puller. Would probably be easier if it was a 2 jaw puller but I haven't seen one of those in hydraulic. This problem only comes up when removing the Briggs bosses, all the Honda/Chonda ones usually come off easily, often the Chonda ones fall off when you remove the bar blade. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Heavy-D...arator-Hub-Tool-Kit-3-Jaws/123845066272?
That looks a beast master, I've been trying to remove the blade/boss off my SB Demon as the bottom engine seal is leaking badly. A friend and I made a two legged puller and tack welded it in place to get maximum leverage, didn't budge at all. Anyone had any luck with getting these off ?
Some of the Briggs ones are near impossible, just another thing I dislike about Briggs. Replacing the seal becomes a major problem and usually if I can't get it to move I dump the motor, not worth the hours you can waste trying to get it off. Just not sure if this 5 ton unit will be strong enough, when I cut the shaft off and put it in my 12 ton press, sometimes they take a bit of getting off. Bit hard for me to justify me paying over a hundred bucks to get a few Briggs bosses off.
I know where you are coming from, I have a go at it for an hour or so periodically until I crack it for a sad then put the mower back on the stand and threaten it with all sorts of horrible endings to it's existence, I swear I heard it have a giggle as I was walking away.
Hi Norm The hydraulic puller on eBay looks like it has a position for 2 legs ,meaning the puller has 4 leg positions.
The description reads Forged steel 2-way yoke allows twin or triple leg pulls.
Just mentioning this because you said you haven't seen a 2 jaw puller in hydraulic.
This other type of hydraulic puller " the Porta Power" works well and it's 10 ton.
Since I've used the large coarse bolt on the manual puller ,I haven't had a problem removing the briggs boss .
A long time ago when I could not remove the boss I would cut a slot on one side usually where the square keyway is on the shaft then hit a screw driver or chisel into the cut on the boss and the boss would tap off easily with a hammer.
Funny he doesn't have a problemwith my designs but of course he making items for SpaceX which is a lot tougher; though, we sometimes have to do redesigns as actually application can be a little than just thinking about it.
