OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines Briggs 35 classic?

Hey all,

This morning I picked up an old Rover easypush on a rubbish pile.

Deck and wheels are in great nick, so onto the engine. It is a BnS 35 classic. It appears to have everything where it is meant to be apart from the muffler, which is a little round one that I found sitting on the deck. It appears to go in a hole on the left lower side (facing the mower from the catcher/push side)? Is there a flange or something I need to attach it on with?

Anyway, it has petrol in the tank, age unknown.

It has plenty of oil in the sump, which I found tucked down on the rear left, which you have to open with a flat screwdriver. Oil is nice and amber, not black.

The cord only pulls out a bit and then stops, but doesn't appear seized, so Iooked underneath the mower.

Blade carrier is a disk with four (very worn and chipped) blades. However, the disk wobbles quite a bit, so if this operates the same as a Victa, I am assuming this is where the starter cord not pulling out properly comes from?

I know virtually nothing about these engines, so if any of the experts here could let me know what I should go through as a check list that would be great. Seeing if I can tighten the blade carrier is obviously a must, as well as finding a way to reattach the muffler of course, though I would assume it would still start without the muffler attached? If there is anything else I need to take a look at, by all means, let me know.

Hi Sapper,
you were warned about this, once you start...... Anyway the Briggs are very basic, first tighten the blade carrier. Next find out why the pull start doesn't work. The fact it has oil is a good sign.. If the pull start is broken do you have a drill you can use to spin the motor over, this way you can test for spark, you need to make sure the throttle plate is not over the kill switch point. If you have spark, take the air filter off and see if the primer squirts fuel in through the carby, If it does see if you can start it with the drill. Often you will find somebody has folded the handles down and bent the throttle cable so it is usually a good idea to disconnect it from the throttle plate, just be ready to shut it off if the motor fires and starts revving too high. Get this far and let us know how you get on

Morning Norm and Sapper

Plus 1 for Norms comments. Drain the old fuel from the tank and put fresh in before trying to start or pop a little bit directly into the cylinder to see if it fires.

Cheers
wce

Hey fellas,

Yeah Norm, but I only have 4 mowers mate. I can stop at any time, honest...

I will have to grab some fuel, maybe from the car. I only have 2 stroke in the garage, haha. Then I will proceed with the directions you have given.

Should I also get the oil out? Or just tip it toward the sump?

Just thought I would add, after closer inspection of the blade plate, it seems it has been a touch sheared from its centre hole. I can move it left and right a bit on the bolt. I will see what I can do with that first.

Probably why it was dumped. Don't worry about the oil get it running first. Just put the 2 stroke in it to make sure it runs before going too far. Remember if the blade carrier is loose it can give a nasty kick back that can really hurt your fingers

Thats what we all say haha

Clean oil could indicate someone added some after running it out

watch the blade disc - nothing worse than losing it at 3000 rpm

Good thing is probably 50% of thrown out mowers in Australia have a classic 35 / Sprint 375 or very similar

Ok, so I have some fuel in it.

I cannot tighten or remove the blade carrier at all. It just turns over the motor, which in turn pumps oil out of the exhaust port.

I will have to find a way to tighten this blade plate, or lossen it so I can then retighten it to where it is supposed to go. Any tips for allowing the bolt to be undone/tightened? I have tried spraying wd40 on the bolt and washer to hopefully loosen it, but it is still seized shut. Is there a good way to stop the boss moving?

Rattle gun undoes those bolts, I'm guessing this is the reason it was dumped. Might have to see if you can get stilsons or something like that to hold the boss. Have you got the mower tipped on its side, oil should not come out the exhaust like that unless you have it tipped on its side. Did you remove the petrol tank before tipping it over? Best way if you want to work on it is tip it up on the handles, that way the oil and fuel won't run out, otherwise remove the tank and drain the oil

I agree with Norm, rattle gun is the best way. And for god sake don't slice your hand open on those old blades

Norm, this is happening with the mower tipped on its handles. I am suspecting it might be overfilled with oil, so I will drain that out as well. I will have to see if I can snag a rattle gun somewhere, but I have stilsons.

I think I see what the problem is, though it will only be helpful later.

The rover blade disk has the central bolt, and should have 3 small bolts that also connect to the boss around the central bolt like a triangle. Some retard has put the disk on, and not put the surrounding smaller bolts on, so the thing just spun like a top and has slowly sheared its central hole out. If I can source the correct three smaller bolts and washers, I may not need to undo the central bolt at all (for now). This would of course simplify taking the disk off, as you would take the central bolt out first, and the other three later without the boss spinning issue.

If a rover owner can verify the above setup, I will start looking for another dead rover and see if the blade disk has the bolts in question.

I will still see if I can get it off with a rattle gun, but this might be a cheaper way of doing things.

Sapper
The Rover and Flymo bosses look the same but the 3 bolt holes are just a fraction off. I'm not sure what the thread is probably 1/4 unf but some are different but they may have been rethreaded at some stage, who knows. If you can get them locked up that will be good enough to test it but the oil coming out is a worry.

Norm,

Is the oil coming out how I described something you have seen? If so, what can it signify?

Yeah, they are 1/4 inch going by the vernier reading.

Sapper ,
Yes oil can come out the muffler if the mower it tipped forward so the oil in the sump can work its way past the rings but this usually only happens after a motor has been left in this position for some time

Thanks mate,

Once I source the bolts I will put in an update here.

Hi Sapper, they are 1/4 inch UNF and are readily available from Bunnings in small packs (6 bolts per pack i think)

Hey Ted,

Thanks a lot mate. That has made things easy.