Found this in a mower shop skip recently. The chain is pretty rusted in place and doesn't move. I haven't tried it but there must be something wrong with the motor to be thrown away like that. Still looks menacing in the right hands.
Trivia. The chainsaw used by Leatherface in The Texas Chainsaw Massacre was a Poulan. The filmmakers had to cover all the labels as the maker wouldn't permit their name to be used in the film.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Most likely it is just carburetor problems. This was sold several different labels including Craftsman and Skilsaw. I have repaired several of the series lately. They with operating chain brakes and no chain brakes. The last I repaired had to converted to chain brake version as the non brake clutch is no longer available.
But it is always the chance it has been straight gassed which makes to expensive to repair vs replacing. Bar and Chain (BNC) is a consumable items so they are not figured to actual repair costs as they are a given cost of ownership just like fuel and oil.
The thing is with chainsaws it is cheaper to replace them than repair them usually, you can pick up a reasonable quality one for a couple of hundred dollars, use it till it gives trouble and then just replace it. Mower shops simply can't do much work on them for that sort of money.
The thing is with chainsaws it is cheaper to replace them than repair them usually, you can pick up a reasonable quality one for a couple of hundred dollars, use it till it gives trouble and then just replace it. Mower shops simply can't do much work on them for that sort of money.
I usually repair them at near cost if it is carburetor problems; otherwise, most of the low end saws are like you said just as cheap to replace. Here I do 2 cycle handhelds as a curiosity repair that generally bring in more profitable repairs.
If I didn't do these as near cost many good items would simply be tossed because of need for a carburetor repair or fuel lines. Now I got a craftsman blower in the shop that I am killing off due replacement vs repair cost. It got a nice 120 psi compression but the cylinder is heavily scored and to repair would take several hours short blocking when even charging one of labor plus parts is as much as a new $99 unit.
Now one of personal costs over 450 usd if I was try to replace it so it will get rebuilt when the time comes but those 130 usd saws is different story. The last nice one that repair cost nearly 100 usd just in parts to just replace the PNC but it was worth to me since it is now my saw.
Hi AVB, different perspective if it is something you want and are prepared to spend the time fixing it yourself, as for trying to repair something for somebody else or to try and make a quid out of it is now a waste of time. I can spend a couple of days stripping down a mower, repairing any damage, sand it back, paint it and get it in excellent working condition, warranty it and then you get some clown offer you $50 for it. I do get a bit of pleasure out of having fun with my reply to them though
It might just be carburettor related as the primer bulb disintegrated as soon as I pushed it. There is a yucky paste of fine wood chips and bar oil enveloping the clutch area. I think this is condemned to remain a chain sword rather than a saw.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
It might just be carburettor related as the primer bulb disintegrated as soon as I pushed it. There is a yucky paste of fine wood chips and bar oil enveloping the clutch area. I think this is condemned to remain a chain sword rather than a saw.
Just takes some patience. They are good running saws when they are running right.
Just normal lack of maintenance. It is actually a fair good sign when it oil and chip clogged. It show that the BNC [bar and chain] is getting plenty of oil. Lack of oil is one main killers of BNCs.
You will find the Poulan used Tygon F-4040 fuel line 3/32 x 3/16 fuel line. Probably a 2.5 x 5mm Nitrile rubber will work but it will be a tighter fit. The Tygon line is plasticize rubber fuel line and is prone to hardening or softening depend which fuel additives are use. I tend to replace this size line with the Nitrile rubber line whenever I can. As for Walbro WT324 the carburetor kit K10-WAT is dirt cheap from DC Spares especially when you order 10 ea at a time as I do. They do have other parts too for the 2 cycles. Of course , they don't have everything as they are primary fuel system components.
Hi AVB, different perspective if it is something you want and are prepared to spend the time fixing it yourself, as for trying to repair something for somebody else or to try and make a quid out of it is now a waste of time. I can spend a couple of days stripping down a mower, repairing any damage, sand it back, paint it and get it in excellent working condition, warranty it and then you get some clown offer you $50 for it. I do get a bit of pleasure out of having fun with my reply to them though
I know exactly how you feel, It is why I don't restore any equipment for resale anymore, just got tired of being insulted.
Getting to the problem of any handheld can consume a lot time; just depends on what needing repair. I recently had replace the recoil spring on a Weedeater brand left blower. It took half a day just get it apart and another few hours putting back together.
Lately I have been on ATV and getting to their carbs is a pain too. A lot disassembly just to get to carb so you can clean it.
