OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Victa Self Propelled

Hi, I am Andy and I am new to your forum so please be patient with me.

I have two mowers. A "Corsair" that I purchased new which I gave to my son for safe keeping telling him to never sell - this is is great almost mint condition. He is looking after it that well he purchased a cheap 4 stroker to keep the Victa for "Good".

I also own a much loved Self Propelled that I am having trouble with. I have had this mower for ages as I got it to mow a steep block and I really would like to fix and keep it.

I could do with some help identifying it and some advice on an ignition problem. I will post actual pictures of it soon as I get it back from the repairer. The repair refuses to do any more work on it after trying three different ignition units on it. He says that the coil tests perfect on his "coil tester". The repaired said it is a 160cc pre "Power Torque" and a good engine to have. The bore and mechanical check out OK.
The spark plug and lead are new.

I had to solder one of the coil lugs back on some time back and I thought the lack of strong spark would be the coil but he says not. My problems with poor starting happened around that time. This week I will get it back and replace the coil and ign unit as a pair if I can correctly identify the mower. That is if I can source the parts!

The mower is all grey with a plastic cowl that goes right over the engine. There are two long acorn nuts on the head to protect the plug. It has a prism type fuel gauge cap which was stuffed by Toluene in adulterated fuel I got once. Mongrel service station owner was busted for it. It has a plastic carby and the air hose feeds up the RIGHT hand side of the mower as you stand behind it. There is a plastic lever on the right hand side above the air filter to engage the rear drive.

Closest I can think is a Victa V198 but I am not sure.
In this picture it is like the grey one but the plastic goes right over to the front. The air tube and drive lever are the same.



In this picture the mower I have is similar but my air tube is on the other side as mentioned but the plastic cowl is like mine. My starter handle comes from a hole in the side of the cowl not on top.




Any ideas on exact model and possible repair solutions would be appreciated.

Andy

I will post actual pics and a serial number soon!

Hi Andy that is better known as a self propelled power plus.It doesn't have a power torque engine.It is a full crank 160cc,it should have a different head from and normal full crank engine.Just to give it more kick.Where as in the other picture you added is my 1977 VC-160 Auto Drive Mark III.You one should have a G4 carby,(could have been replaced with a LM carby by now)Not a lot of difference.Yours should be around the 1978-1980.Post up the engine number(Carby side lower crankcase)I may may be able to tell you year from that.I would have thought your Victa code would have been WU189A8 or WV173A8 depending on which model you have.Any more questions please ask.

A photo of the actual mower in question would be great, as its hard to pick between 4 possible machines what yours may be.

Thanks Guys,

I will get the engine number on Monday.

The repair place said they will keep looking at the starting problem now it is cooler and business has slowed. Also because he actually listened to me when I told him I had to re-terminate the coil lug.

I dont think he is honest with me as he said he had replaced the coil and CDI unit and didn't fix it. Hell there is only a couple of bits to make spark - Magnet, igniter, coil and spark plug! How hard can it be? I dont think he has actually changed the coil yet. Said it checked out on his "Coil Tester" and has thrown 3 different igniter units at it so far.

Oh the carby is plastic with no white plastic adjusting wheel on the diaphragm - that help?

So I cant photo it yet but I will get some numbers.
Ta
Andy

If/when I get it back I will put up some photos because it's interesting that so many people here are into all of the different models Victa made.

Don't forget to include points and condenser as well with the ignition.Is it the same as the self propelled mower in the picture you added?

MATE if a service technician cant get that running then i would definately go elsewhere.he is having you on mate.

Yep I also think the "technician" is not too hot.
We are a bit starved here for good help so I will let it ride for a bit and if they don't fix it I will keep chucking bits at it until it goes. I don't want to loose the mower as I like using it when it runs.

The Mower I have has no points it uses a magnet coil and CDI unit - one of which is not working.
Been raining here and I have not had a chance to get it back yet.
Cheers
Duke

Is this by any chance the mower in question? its hard to give good help on a machine if one cant be definate on whats being worked on.

the ignition system is pretty simple, the coil, the ignition module, spark plug, the wiring and the cut off rubbers. The coil can be quite dear to buy new but there are abundances of second hand units out there. At the same time try a second brand new spark plug, I have had them faulty out of the box before. Is the ignition module being used a long rectangular gold one or a small square silver one? The old gold coloured ones are notorious for being faulty, however its worth making sure is earthed well and RIVETED to the motor not bolted or screwed as that can rattle loose and cause issues down the track.

Yes Yes Yes - Good on you Joe!

That is the exact model I own.
My unit is in much better condition than that one which is why I want it back in action.

Does anyone now know which model number that it is???

Repairers are dithering something awful, I will have to take it back and have another go myself.
They say spark problem but they say coil tests OK.
They have tried 3 different ignition module with no luck.
I don't know if they riveted the new ones on as you say that is the recommended way and surely they know that.

The original module is/was square bout inch by inch by half inch and it was riveted on tightly.

When I was working on it the plug had spark just not really very bright. I don't know how bright it should be with nothing to compare it to. Yes I did try different plugs.

Where could I find a second hand coil and does anyone know what part No.s for a coil or module, now the model is shown?

I just fixed my old McCullough Eager Beaver 200A Line trimmer with a ZAMA carby kit. It was getting that tired I had to inject raw fuel in the plug hole to make it go. The inlet petals were getting stiff. It runs fantastic now, revs it's little head off. Very miffed with myself that I can't get the mower fixed.

Anyway I will post when I get the self propelled back.

Thanks for looking!
Duke

The module you describe is the newer variant and wasnt nearlly bas with failure as some I have seen. here is a couple of ideas I would try...

Remove the kill wires from the back of the carby, tape them up and keep them seperate (dont have to tape them up but make sure they dont tough the body or each other) Check colour of the spark.

Thouroughly clean the coil where the bolts go through, the bolts and the plate where the coil mounts to with steel wool/sandpaper to make sure its earthed well...


I would have a spare second hand coil (probably have at least a dozen) but any coil from a side pull start series 80 victa should work sufficiently.

Ok, I got the mower back from the "Repairers" Ha!










If you look at the pics you sill see they gave it back to me in a mess. The wiring is apart and they have lost my rear wheel cover! And they have left the ignition module off and with no lug on the end of the wire!
Talking to the dudes there,they said maybe it's not the spark after all and maybe the carby. He said that as I told him I had completely r/r and cleaned the carby and in the process knocked the lug off the coil. They haven't got a clue do they?

All of that cost me four weeks and fifty bucks.

The mower ran well after the carby clean but became impossible to start. I told him I had to inject fuel in the plug hole to get it going. It seemed that with the throttle at the start position I could never get the plug "wet" even with pumping the rubber dome heaps. I have checked the needle and seat and it works ok with the bowl holding fuel.

The ignition module has 800HC2 printed on the side and it is rectangular as per the pics. The coil has H-A printed on it. They tried to make it go with smaller square modules.

As the ignition wires are all over the place can anyone please tell me.

1. Does the module rivet under or on top of the plate?
2. Which side of the coil lugs has the ignition module and which side the earth wire? The pics show the earth wire very stretched onto a lug?

Joe, can you pm me if you have a rear wheel cover and or some bits about for this mower?

Sounds a bit like the needle is sticking.I had the same problem with another mower.Couldn't get it started but when I gave it something through the plug hole it would run.Not great but would.I found the needle was sticking.I might have a hub cap but I don't think it would be in fantastic condition.

Have been working on the mower this morning.

Re riveted on the old spark module to the underside of the plate.
Got a weakish spark at the plug.

Reversed the wires to the coil cause I don't know how they go.
Got no spark at the plug so moved the wires back.

Took the magneto off and all seems good there.
Reset the air gap to the magnets as the "repairer" left the gap big enough to jump thru.
Set the gap a double fold of A4 paper thickness about .010 thou?
Got a bright blue spark at the plug. Yay

One pump at the bowl as per the tag.
Pull, pull, pull - no go.

Pulled plug - dry plug.
Four pumps at the float bowl and moved the throttle down 5mm from the start position.
Started second pull, goes like a new one.

Now starting using that setup the mower starts FIRST pull, every time.

Some repairers I had eh?

I am going to dismantle it and paint her up over the winter as I am encouraged by some of the refurbish jobs I have seen on this forum.

Can anyone PM me if they have a rear hubcap and a flap door that shuts off the chute when the catcher is off?? My flap has a huge stone hole in the middle of it.

Thanks for the suggestions and help guys!
Andy

Some repair shop that is. Remind not to go there. Nothing better than having a play around yourself. I knew you'd work it out. Is that the catcher flap with the hinged part down the bottom? As I don't think I have one of those. Should have a hub though as I said I don't think it would be great. Ill have a look over the weekend.

The one in my photo above will be getting parted out sooner or later as I have 3 of them.

man i hate hearing of stories like that. how can they possibly call themselves a repair shop. its obvious they didnt have a clue? glad to hear you sorted it yourself mate. best wishes bazz

Finally worked out what model this is.
Victa Powerplus Self propelled mower, purchased in 1981, model number WV 155 AO.

Just chasing up a complete set of new wheels including driving rears.

Going like a dream
Andy

I have totally stripped and am half way through rebuilding this unit with the help with some hard to procure parts from "Outdoor King"

I have made up a "self propelled sticky from scanning the remains from the original.

I have just finished re painting the parts am am having a hard time finding an image from the from of the plastic cowl.
I believe it should say "power plus" not "mustang"

Any one got a front on image of my mower or a pic of the decal??

Joe, maybe you could take a nice piccy from the front of the one you posted earlier as it is the correct model.

any help appreciated,
Thanks
Andy

try asking vintage decals on ebay he has lots of them.

Hi duke12 sorry mate this is the best I can do.I've only ever had the one and it was is terrible condition as you can see.The base was real bad condition,and I ended up wrecking it out.I hope the picture is some kind of help.


Also Joe isn't a registered member here anymore,which is a real bummer.

Thanks Blumbly, I think using that and the previous pic I can make one up. Seems to be

POWERPLUS
160cc SUPER 2 STROKE
ELECTRONIC IGNITION

I have already re made the "SELF PROPELLED" Sticker - came out well. SO I can rob the colours from that.

I will post all of the decals when finished.

Her ya go Duke.








Have one in pretty good nick to do up one day, not self propelled though unfortunately. Looking for one.

Oh Bushie you'r a Champion!

They will be easy to use for rehabilitation in Photoshop.
I think I have the lot now.
Will post em all soon!

Got a as new fuel cap to replace the one eaten away inside by ethanol in the 80's. Never knew what it did, do now. It was advertised on the net with some other stuff and the guy ended up being 30 kays away, sold it to me for $5. Win win!

I only use premium in my Triumph Sprint, hate to have ethanol eat it's guts away.

Getting the grass shute flap welded today. Panel beater deal.

Never selling my self propelled, it now owes me more than one of those crap new mowers. Number two son will get it eventually with a promise never to sell that or the Corsair.

Cheers Duke

Just a quick question.
I have pulled the head and barrel for cleaning repainting and new gaskets.
The piston seems to be in the wrong way?
The locating pins for the piston are pointing towards the exhaust?
I was taught when motorcycle racing the pins should face the inlet.

I read from an old Victa manual that the 125 faces (the pins) the exhaust but the 160cc faces the inlet. This is too confusing.

Is there a correct way and a reason for it?. Like away from the exiting flame to stop blow by?

Well I'm not sure duke12 as to what the technical reason is for it but you are right,(according to my workshop manuals).
A 125cc ring pegs face exhaust and a 160cc pegs face the inlet.
I'm sure that there would be a reason but I've never wondered enough to try to find out.
I've just put them together as there say and haven't had any problems yet.

I understand it's designed that way to keep the gaps spaced away from the scavenging ports and of course the inlet and outlet and to stagger them. Stagger either side of the inlet on the 160.

Ok I got it. Read elsewhere that keeping the ends of the rings away from ports was desirable as a sharp end edge may catch a port and break a ring. From the look of the heat blow by on the piston I took out, really light but would be best kept away from the exhaust side so there we go. Ring pins to the inlet side it is.

Here is a pic of my remastered decal for the Power Plus.



Wadda ya think?

Have to work out how to get it laser printed and then waterproofed? Any ideas on that?

Hi, I have just acquired the same wv155ao mower. Just wondering the best way to replace the belt on it.

Thanks Spence

Hi Spence,
Easy if you have a good rattle gun, remove the blade carrier, unbolt the motor, lift the motor up and slip the new belt over the shaft and over the rear drive pulley then bolt the motor back down

RGs are cheap as chips and you don't need a compressor. Battery ones are easily obtainable and will knock off a blade carrier easily.