I was given one of these. Wow free. It needs a new starter cord, easy..... But every nut and screw is rusted, I got a couple out........... sprayed them with penetrating fluid. Just ordered a impact driver from ebay, $25.....it will be handy later on..... Now it owes me $25............ cheers speedy
........................Keep your blades sharp......................
Speedy, do you mean the impact drivers you hit with a hammer (like a screwdriver) or a electric one.
I bought an XU1 18v impact driver from bunnings for technically $25 (2 piece set of drill and impact for $50) and it has just enough torque to get Victa flywheel nuts off
My experience with screws that are steel to aluminum and they are rusted in place you will only break them off. For seized screws smacking them with hammer and the correct bit might jar them loose. For hex heads just sub a punch and hammer. Nuts are a different story on getting loose not many way of getting them loose then destroying the nut.
I get a lot deck spindles to rebuild and I usually will not even try removing the screws opting instead to rebuild them while still attached due to most steel screws being seized in the aluminum housings.
G'day folks, Just a FYI, for before you deploy these hammer type impact drivers.
Setting a flat ended punch on the screw head, and giving it a few smart smacks with a lightish hammer, can help to break the corrosion bond between screw and alloy. Use a heavy hammer on the driver, though.
This type of impact driver was an essential service tool, when working on 1970s Japanese motorcycles - my example dates from that era.
These bikes had a lot of M6x1.0 Philips head screws holding their crankcases together, and the screw heads were quite soft. Only these impact drivers could get those screws out.
It was so big a problem, that the motorcycle trade then offered model-specific kits of plated Allen type socket head cap screws, to replace the originals!
Another good tip is, that when reinstalling steel screws into alloy, use a low strength thread locking compound [e.g. Loctite 222] - that prevents the corrosion bonding.
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Thanks Gadge, I had a 360cc Yamaha and used an impact driver to take side plates off, that's where I got the idea from..... I'll be carefull, might have to drill them out and tap some threads..... speedy
........................Keep your blades sharp......................
The reason I use the appropriate bit is that a flat end punch tends to mess up the head to where you bit will not fit. But this trick work a lot times on cross point screw that have been messed up by someone that just stripped them. Then of course you want the head to close up some and then drive the correct cross point get it to reset and hold. I usually replace these damage screws after I get them out.
The impact driver arrived, it was too big, but got a couple of screws loose with it. Tapped a phillips head screw and the lug broke off, dosen't matter. I sprayed the motor with penetrating spray every 3 days.... for last week..... Managed to undo some allen head bolts.....on the shaft to motor join. I cut a slot in the allen head on the pull starter and it loosened, then did the other three...... lucky they all loosened, but were rusty, the penetrating fluid never got in..... Rust everywhere , hit it with mini wire brush on a drill, then Boston penetrating spray. The job is starting to turn my way. cheers speedy
........................Keep your blades sharp......................
