I was told years ago that chainsaws are much harder to tune and more finicky to work on compared to other petrol equipment. Is this the experience here?
Not my experience at all. The only thing I found is that when tuning out of the cut they need tune to where they slightly 4 cycle and the internal carburetor setting need to be spot on. Mainly the slight 4 cycle tuning is to offset the slight stiffing on the metering diaphragm as they change some after they become fuel soaked. When with some other hand held 2 cycles this happens as I peak the rpms to just find a day later they are running too lean if I don't. Usually about a 1/8 turn rich after peak.
Some today's 2 cycles have speed limiters and to slow the engine they need to tuned on the rich side especially the Stihl line. The airhead (stratified) versions can be a little picky until you learn their tuning requirements. Of course I work on several units every month so I have a lot experience in doing these and it has become a normal habit now when tuning this units.
The best thing I did was the purchase of the ultrasonic cleaner that I use as these 2 carburetors (mostly cubes) do need a through cleaning and either a full carburetor kit installed or at least the needed part replaced and the metering lever set correctly. Now of course my first UC was on the small size and I out grew fairly quickly. I stated with 2.5L then 6L and I currently running a 10L as needed the extra space for larger carburetors as I got into ATVs.
My biggest problem is the plasticize fuel lines either hardening or softing. Although the Tygon lines are good whenever I can install Nitrile rubber lines; just seems to hold up much better with the additives they in the fuels and fuel oils today. Just it line is rubber does mean it will work as there different rubber line out there too and some are not compatible with gasoline.
