I was able to free the valve stem using Kroil penetrating oil (PB Blast would probably work well too) a vice grip plier and a heavy flat blade screwdriver and hammer. Sprayed the end and also in the intake port, let it sit for an hour. Then clamped the vice grip over the machined head of the valve stem, inserted the screwdriver between the nose of the vice grips and the aluminum housing, put prying pressure on the screwdriver to keep it in place then tapped the end of the screwdriver with the hammer to apply more prying force in a straight backwards direction without bending the stem. The stem backed out of the hole but was still tight. Sprayed it as before then tapped it back into the hole with the hammer. Sprayed it again, reattached the vice grips and repeated the prying with the screwdriver and hammer spraying each time I got to the end of the movement. It eventually became very easy to move especially when I twisted the stem in a circular motion (spun it in the hole). Scraped the old gasket material and used steel wool to get the last bits free then sprayed everything from top down with carb cleaner to flush all dirt and steel wool particles out. Reattached spring and spring plate and rocker arm and had helper pull starter rope while I watched the valves move. Put new high temp gasket Silicone and reattached the valve plate cover. Cleaned the carb and gaskets and reintalled. If you tackle this make sure you know how all of the gaskets go as you take the carb off. I now have to wait 24 hours for the gasket to cure. If anyone sees anything I did wrong please let me know before i add oil and gas and try to start it up. If no comments I will add post to let you know if it worked