If it went from great spark to no spark, just from being dismantled, it isn't that likely the coil was the problem.
Which carby does it have? If it's the all plastic G4, the stop switch in it is a more likely culprit.
But anyway, set the points and give it a go. Make sure the end of the square flywheel key is fully seated in the notch in the top of the points cam, before replacing the flywheel - this locks the cam timing in position.
Those points pictured above are fitted with an original plastic dust shield ring around the contacts, which has to be removed to set the gap. Up to you if you replace it afterwards - most wouldn't bother, as it doesn't seem to do much.
first coil replacement complete, but as i do not have feeler guages. is the gap for the points 0.0685? what would be a substitute measuring tool.
sean
No, the correct points gap for all 'coil under flywheel' 2-stroke Victas is 0.50mm/0.020".
And spark plug gap is 0.635mm/0.025"for all Victa 2-strokes.
Only the very late model points ignition/external coil models use 0.685mm/0.027" points gap. Setting the gap too wide will advance the spark timing, and may cause hard starting or kickbacks.
I just went out and put the micrometer over a few hacksaw blades - thickness varied a fair bit, and they were all over 0.020" size. So not that good a fallback, these days.
Most business cards run about 0.015-0.018", so that gets you in the ballpark, if the contacts are adjusted to a fairly loose grip on the card. The contacts must be dressed smooth first, to use this method.
You really do need a feeler gauge set for this sort of work - even Bunnings will sell you a decent 32 blade Kincrome one for about $12!
