OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Greenfield Ride On Mower Frames Re: Greenfield Ride-On - Electrical Wiring

I have searched on here and found a bit of advice but am in need of some assistance please!

Cut a long story short-

My 2007 Greenfield 15.5hp 32 Fastcut was imported to the UK a few years back and left to sit in long grass for about 5 years so everything got seized/rusty.

When I got it running there was a scuffing sound (on tickover) coming from the 12" drive plates under the seat. Because of this "neutral" was near impossible to get. It was either shuddering forwards or backwards on tickover. Also the chain does not run straight/true/misaligned, so I thought some TLC would be good!

Greenfield told me "the bearings on the clutch shaft can be loosened and the shaft tapped sideways to align the chain and then retightened. Also the bearings on the axle can be loosened and also moved sideways slightly."

So having had the axle apart previously and seeing there is no room for adjustment down below due to the spacer behind the chain sprocket on the axle, the axle will not go any further in the direction i want it to, I thought I would remove the clutch assy, take it all apart and see what was causing the scuffing sound and see if I could adjust anything up top.


1st Question- How do remove the chain drive sprocket!!

It is on a woodruff key, I removed the 13mm bolt and washers, soaked it over night in penetrating fluid, got a 3 legged puller on it, no chance, warmed it with a torch (not too much as the bearing is close to it) got a 3 legged puller on it, no, it just will not budge!! Stuck tight.

So, I turned my attention to taking the clutch apart from the other side to check the cork lining (my Greenfield has only done 69 hours work) and they are fine, the nuts were tight as tight can be, springs were good, there was a black grease on the shaft, I would say the scuffing sound was from maybe swelling of the cork from years of sat around in the damp? Plus, the faces are not exactly machined dead flat? So I put a shim (from an MTD axle) on the side I could get at to give it a bit more clearance on the forward side (Right hand side).

Once reassembled it ticks over nicely with a bit more freeplay in the foot pedal before drive is taken up, I took it for a run and doesn't slip, but will keep an eye on it, maybe try a thinner shim at a later date, but I do need to take the sprocket off as that and the bearing behind it are stuck to the shaft (even with the tiny Grub screws removed).


My next question is-

What is the maximum wattage bulbs that a Briggs & Stratton 15.5hp Intek can run in the headlights? Or does it take the power from the battery, not from under the flywheel like the side valve Briggs?

Mine was built without lights, but I fancy having them, Greenfield say they are NLA but they were simply reverse lights from a ute/truck?

So, looking at photos of Greenfields for sale on eBay.aus I have a good idea of how they now fit and ordered some universal reverse lights from eBay.uk, just a case of finish making the bracket and heat shield and wiring it in, but what wattage bulbs do I fit? 5w? 10w? 21w?

I must just say that Greenfield service is brilliant, I emailed them needing an ignition key (mine came without one) and also needing a charging diode pack as mine had been filled with water over the years (hung in the loom upside down) and corroded, after its first run for many years it must have shorted out and made the hour meter run for almost a whole day so it is now reading 91 hours when it should only read 70 (Grrrrrr)

They said they would send it free of charge to me!!

So today I received the key, and a complete charging harness!!

Result!

Video of its first test cut the other week along with its other stable-mate (1988 MTD Lawnflite 504) which as you can see is just so slow compared with the new yellow beastie!



So, two bits of advice please, removing the drive sprocket, and bulb wattage