Hi Grumpy.
Happy to share my experience.
Based on your previous comments I was unsure the mylar diaphragm would work so I decided to put the new conventional diaphragm (top left marked with and x on the picture above) plus the mylar one at the bottom right in the photo. I realised that if I superposed them I would get just the shape I needed. Besides, I wouldn't be adding much to the thickness of the set given the mylar is very thin. I thought if they sealed right there was no reason why this shouldn't work. I used the conventional diapragm first to close the valves on the carburetor and then mylar on top just to close the part marked with the X.
On the weekend I tried starting the cutter a few times but nothing. Good thing is the leak has stopped. This morning I emptied the tank and put the carburetor apart. It did look very dry. Like if no fuel had gone through it at all.
Put the old pump diaphragm and gasket back in it fired up. Used for about 20 minutes in which time I turned it off and on a few times (only gave me troubles once) It was all good until I bumped the head for more string and it stalled. There was still fuel in the tank but could not start it again so left it alone for now.
I still think the mylar diaphragm or the arrangement I had set should work. I noticed I had set the trigger cable a bit too long and perhaps this is the reason why it did not start before.
Next I will use the mylar diaphragm only and see what happens.
Last edited by Jonez; 21/01/14 10:23 PM. Reason: spelling
