Update Day 4:
Have visited 4 bowling clubs, which still have at least one turf green. They are getting very thin on the ground and only one of those clubs did not have major broad leaf weed issues. I can only guess that they are waiting till slightly warmer weather to poison those nasties.
I also visited more mower shops. Very surprised that reasonable restoration Model 45s start at about $950 retail. I did not come across a single 45 (no matter the price) that was in the league of many members� machines. Did not see one example where handles were re-chromed.
Sand blasting and electro-plating (chrome work) wildly varied in price, example quality and professionalism of proprietors. One valuable nugget of information confirmed by multiple sources was that there is only one way to remove chrome so that any future coasting adheres properly (whether paint or powder coating) is reverse electrolysis. Sand blasting may appear to remove all visible traces of chrome but full bonding cannot be achieved with any trace of previous chrome remaining. Sure it may look good for a while but many claim is that it won�t last anywhere near as long as elctro stripping the substrate before further treatment, even sandblasting .
I find it hard to believe that so many non-related entities would agree. Even one industrial sand blast (who wanted $360 per hour of �nozzle time�) said the same thing.
I have found 2 �engineers� that I would be happy to do business with for spin grinding and static blade sharpening. Surprise, surprise they are both getting on in years and happily showed me their tools of trade. I am confident that both would do a fine job to give this machine, another 50 year of life without destroying all the meat still on cylinder. There is one more who I spoke to and look forward to meeting, that has come highly recommended and has coincidentally just acquired a Model 45 electric for his own collection.
I have settled on an electro plater, who if does a great job, I will be happy to recommend as a potential resource for WA restorers, as he appeared honest and professional with exceptional examples of his craft. These weren�t his show pieces but stuff sitting on shelf awaiting customer collection.
Sand blasting has been sorted too (stiff bickies for my brother/nephew�s father who likes whatever the bloke equivalent of �shabby chic� is, ala primer finished classic autos). Have found and industrial blaster who will blast all I take to them for a carton. Also happy to provide details via PM if they work out OK.
1. I am in need of advice for tomorrow�s progression. Is powder coating really better than painting on a properly cleaned and primed cylinder surface?
2. What colour hammertone do other use for their 40/45 restos, and do you rust treat (ie ranex) after blasting and before you use the hammertone manufacturer recommended primer?
3. I have until now, had great success applying hammertone finishes via brush (even the cheapest ones have done same job if applied within recommended temp range.
4. The repro grips are potentially a goer, providing I can source the best example possible as a prototype. Am even prepared to leave $100 deposit with a sponsor who could let me have it for a while (remember, I am outsourcing manufacturer to SE Asia and things work on rubber-time).
Am estimating that I could provide 50 pairs as this would be minimum break-even point, and at only ~4 times the price the ones at existing retailers, who are selling Malvern Star bike grips as replacements.
5. Would really appreciate a close up pic of an original Model 40 catcher�s lugs.
Dinner time (back after dinner),
Later,
Cam.
PS before my dinner is getting too cold. Mr Grumpy are you certain about hp equivalencies between electric motors and Internal Combustion Engines? As I have trouble maintaining a reasonable walking pace behind the half hp motor, and I am almost six and a half feet tall? Plenty of torque in that poorly thought of and running motor.
