Just to clarify the flat plate puller option, here is my Briggs version:
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
As you can see, it is hardly a major construction project. Mine, being for Briggs engines, has just 2 screws, which are 1/4" UNC to suit the existing holes in the flywheel. I used what I had, so I have to tap each flywheel with 1/4" UNC taps before I use the puller. (Briggs specifies self-threading 1/4" UNC screws, which I don't have.) I don't know the screw size for Victa flywheels, and of course there are three screws instead of two. To use the puller you just loosen the flywheel retaining nut until it is at the end of the thread to support the center of the puller, then thread the screws through the flat plate with the nuts on the same side as the head of the screws. Screw them into the pre-tapped holes in the flywheel until they bottom. Turn the nuts until they are firmly against the flat plate, with light even pressure on all of them. Go around the screws turning them 1/4 turn each. Repeat until there is substantial, but not major, pressure on the flywheel retaining nut under the flat plate, then tap the center of the flat plate (directly above the flywheel nut) once lightly with a hammer. Apply another 1/4 turn to each nut, and repeat the tap. Unless the flywheel is rusted on, by now it has disconnected itself from the taper with a loudish bang. Undo the screws from the flywheel and put the puller away until next time.

As Ty said, if there is any sign of rust on the crankshaft or corrosion on the flywheel, use Penetrene before you begin the process.