Hi Jeff, easier to give it a hone and a set of rings with the motor still mounted. The pulley looks the same as the one I took off the one with the Briggs on it and I think it will be the same as the one I have here off a Full Crank. I would say they have used the same pulley on all the 24's. Just the same I will probably pull the motor off just so you can have a look. Weather is a bit average today so I might pass on doing it today as I have a new mission making up these float needle clips.
Ok got to have a look at it and I can't believe it was running reasonably well till it stopped and I have discovered what the odd noise was when I picked it up. Con rod was rubbing on the crank and cut quite a groove in the flywheel. Piston is badly scored so I will just put another motor on it that I have put a new set of rings in.
Here is some pics for you Jeff of the Powertorque/Briggs and I would assume the Honda pulley used on the 24/600's. The one on the left is the F/C and the one on the right is the PT.
How did the conrod wear a groove in the flywheel? Surely they are on opposite sides of the bearing and seal? I wonder what caused that to happen? Bearing shot perhaps?
Do either of those pulleys need a separate boss? The PT one on the right looks very thin ( maybe pressed metal,) without the interfrence fit cone that fits over the flywheel.. Is the PT pulley much different to the FC?
Having never seen either, I'm having a little trouble grasping the concept. Mine is very different.
Hi Jeff, Conrod sits on top of the flywheel, not sure why it was rubbing on the flywheel, I will investigate that later. The PT pulley is a pressed metal one and fits straight onto the standard PT boss. The FC pulley is a solid one with a taper in it to fit the FC shaft taper With the PT one the dished side faces up towards the underside of the motor and this gets the pulley at the right height for the motor to bolt directly to the base. I will get a pic of the base so you can see what goes on there. The Briggs and Honda motors use the same pulley but they have a boss to fit the shaft with the PT prong design but it uses a center bolt to hold it on. This is something I noticed with the 550 I was working on recently it has a FC motor but the boss is held on be a center bolt not the usual big nut. This FC must be specific to the self propelled, just thinking about it I will go back and look a bit closer at that one and have a look and take a fer pics. I removed the pulley on that one to get the belt on and off but didn't investigate it fully.
I was thinking of the flywheel as the alloy part on the bottom just above the boss, with the magnets etc for the magneto. I guess the steel part inside the motor is a flywheel too but I would have called it the crankshaft. Just terms I suppose but now I understand what you mean. Have another look at it, I wonder if the bearing has a lot of play in it perhaps because of the very tight belt drive. It has to be very tight to avoid kick back. I think its too tight for long bearing life.
Your PT 24 pulley is now very similar to the way my substitute ended up. I think it started life as maybe an automotive alternator pulley, or perhaps air conditioner compressor pulley. Probably sourced by a visit to a car wrecker. After I turned it out to fit the standard PT boss, I filed a couple of grooves in it to take the PT boss prongs. Seems to work OK.
The belt that came with my FC 24 was an 11A1180 automotive fan belt. That means 11mm automotive They are very cheap like $12.00. . It was too long so I replaced it with a 11A1155. Its also a little long but the next one down is 11A 1130 but I think that would be hard to get on. I read on this forum that the Victa belt is 11M 1150 and probably is Kevlar or aramid reinforced, so much better but much more expensive. Time will tell how long these automotive belts last. So far so good is all I can say. The original one looked quite old but who knows how much work it actually did. They are all polyester so I think they must stretch more easily.
This just reminds me of the ongoing problem with this slasher. I fitted another motor to it that I had given a hone and put a new set of rings in it, and it fired straight up with no problems so I pulled the motor of and put it on the shelf ready to go the next time I wanted a motor. Fitted it on the slasher and I can't get an attempt to start from it, so I have walked away from that for the moment
Did you change the carby as well or is this the same carby as from the previous motor which would not go either. Not the old stuck needle valve issue? Crook fuel in the tank?
This reminds of the time I was helping a mate with a ute. Original motor was completely shot so fitted new rings and bearings. No go lots of smoke. Blamed out of round bores etc. Fitted a S/H complete engine that was a "good runner". Exactly the same result. Changed carbies a few times to no avail. Turned out the owner had filled the tank with diesel and was blissfully unaware that he had. Drained tank and refilled with petrol. Started first time and ran perfectly.
All this took about 3 months. The smoke should have told us something as should the fact that it was making oil in the sump. Ute still runs well 10 yrs later. We put that down to experience,
Yes Jeff this is the yellow 600, fuel is fresh, I put 4 liters of fuel through it over Easter before it stopped. Same carby and I did think about changing the needle for one of the ones I filed down the other night. So far I have fitted 4 of those and all 4 worked straight up. It is a waiting game now to see if they still work in a couple of months. Another interesting thing is the reject needles I had were all in one container, ones that flooded , fuel out the primer cap and the others that just would not start. Of the 4 I have fitted none have leaked so I am still not sure where I am at. In hindsight I probably should have put them in different containers but at the time I was in no mood to think along those lines, I just wanted to fix them and get them out of my hair.
Hi Jeff, I fitted a shortened needle and another plug, I got it fired up for a few minutes and then it stopped again, but the really strange thing is it was making a similar noise to the original motor. I think I will pull the motor off again and put another one on and see where that takes me.
Hi Jeff I forgot to mention, the noise only comes in when opening the throttle from idle and it is a knocking noise, but as soon as the revs come up the it runs fine, as did the previous motor. Yes MF this second motor I put rings in and ran it on the original base and I didn't hear any strange noise then
Some motors do have a knock in them. I always thought it was gudgeons or something. Its intermittent too.It doesn't matter.
Maybe a flat /hard spot on the belt. Try another belt maybe Those automotive belts are cheap enough. Other than that I have no idea.
Sure is an interesting case. I hope you do not have anybody waiting to pick this one up. Has to be someting in the frame, base, pulleys , spindle belt or blade disc. Not much left to try is there.
Hi Jeff, I'm wondering if it might be a PT thing being only supported on the bottom side. Maybe if I increase the idle it may not cause the issue. Never heard anything like it with the F/C's. No problems time wise, nobody wants a mower now, at least not till September/October
I don't remember any knocking noise in my PT conversion to the FC 24. It was a bit of a noisy muffler so its not easy to tell. There is a slight belt whirr maybe because the automotive fan belt I am using has the cogged profile in the Vee.
It might be worth having a look at the spindle. In a well-worn 24 like mine, the sides of the vee are showing quite a bit of wear so there is a definite lip on the pulley from the belt. I was a little worried about it because that is one part you will not get. It does not seem to cause a problem though.
Hi Jeff, I had another look at this slasher yesterday, a couple of pulls and it fired up. Knock was still there so I increased the idle a little and that seemed to have gotten rid of most of it, still a slight knock if I increase the revs quickly but it only knocks once and then it is fine. I won another F/C one yesterday but I haven't picked it up yet, supposed to run fine
I wonder if it might be worth pulling the starter off and having a look to see if there is any wear marks on the conrod and crankshaft like there was ion the previous engine.
