Hi Micko, I don't think the carrier is a problem, the plate on the bottom of the boss that the blade bar bolts to seems to be ok, the rest of the disc, not really sure what it is for, just a bit of spinning weight I think, so as long as it is reasonably straightened out it should be ok, you could even cut it off if it troubled you
Hi all, If I have a setup similar to this Honda where the plate is part of the crankshaft hub,I just drill two holes in the plate so the bolts for the puller bypass the plate,that way nothing is bent or damaged.
Now Max that is an idea I thought of for pulling the hub in question but without seeing one in person I didn't mention that setup. Now the OP needs to make sure to avoid drilling in the stop welds.
Even using that setup here on other hard pulls I still need to heat things but some of the pulls I do are very rusted up as rust can seize things very tight.
I got three sizes the bearing separator clamps. On the larger one I need more bolt (screw) spread than the harmonic balancer puller can provide at times which why I designing a bar puller type for my machinist to make for me.
Yes they are prone to rust ,I find the coarse bolt thread on the puller is more durable compared with a fine thread when removing the blade plate boss.
Metal quality is key with any good puller which why striped the Harbor Freight puller forcing screw. Too much tolerance in the threaded puller bar creating a loose fit plus the forcing screw was very low quality. My machinist used much closer on resizing the puller bar and installed a high grade forcing screw. Just it last week om a very hard pull and no damaged threads.
In your image that puller hub look to be shop made vs commercial made so I asking is the center hole threaded for pushing against the shaft or are you using the nut to push? On this end I use my 1300 ft-lb impact on my puller which is also why I probably stripped the original forcing screw.
I do agree that coarse thread on regular screws and better due what I call sloppy tolerances. Last week I was a 3/8 screw for a 3/8 drilled hole for a tight fit. Every screw un-threaded portion I tried was so loose I had step up one size and fine tune the pivot hole in the bushing to match to clearance I wanted.
Even to find decent screws and other similar hardware I have to either go to the local Fastenal store or order them through my McMaster supplier where they don't sell the el cheapo hardware.
The harmonic balancer puller is home made,it's made from 9/16 plate.
The cheap professional ones have snapped when the going gets tough.
I was using a high tensile unf thread that was about 15/16 in diameter but that stripped .the thread at least 3 times so I just use a coarse thread that pushes against the nut.
When the coarse thread gets too worn on the bolt it will be replaced as I have a few spare.
As harmonic puller I got an old one from the 70's that a lot better made than the ones I have seen lately myself. As for yours being home made it is probably stronger those cast ones. This why I make several of my own tools too as I have a much better idea of what I going to use the tool for.
For some things there simply no commercially available for the job the we access things or at least for there is not with out a lot of extra disassembly.
