OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines G3 carbs

The main Victa Gold dealer I get my parts from only supplies aftermarket caps and needles.

I did find some 10 year old stock of Bynorm primer caps and a 10 pack of needles, but still only had mixed success.

I'm also in favour of Norms modification to provide variable throttle. There's not much point running a big Victa 550 Pro flat out just cutting the lawn. It does the same job at 1/4 throttle easily. Probably the best bit is no issues!

A tip with the primer bulbs; if it has gone a bit hard, but hasn't actually cracked, there is a simple fix.

Douse the bulb with Armor-All, and let it sit for a few days before wiping off the excess. This does quite a good job of restoring flexibility.

Armor-All sure does!

This was the way the dealership I used to work at required all the new old stock vehicles to be detailed. You sprayed it all over and let it sit overnight. Then it would be wiped down in the morning ready for the salesman who would take it down a gravel road!

I don't know what the long term effect of the Armor-all on all the plastic and rubber was, but it sold them in a 1/3 of the time compared to being left un-detailed. It also meant the price could be bumped up a few thousand...

The primer bulbs on these are particularly robust, I find it very rare to come across a split or hard bulb. Must be made from some good material because some of the ones I end up with must be about 40 years old

Maybe it's the aftermarket ones that go hard? The original one on the Utility has split but is still flexible. However, it doesn't serve any purpose due to the split and requires extra pulls on the cord to start it. Still the needle doesn't stick like the aftermarket one I put on!

Is there a reliable method to test the needle for sticking by moving the float and needle by hand on the cap?

It is the only way you can test to see if it is sticking but this does not mean it won't stick when it is put back in. I had one that would work fine until you picked the mower up and tilted it towards you and this was enough to upset the level of fuel in the bowl and this was enough to make the needle stick. I haven't fitted a Briggs needle to this machine yet but I might do it tomorrow just to prove a point. It is a pain because unlike the earlier carbys with a tickler fitted you could actually see that fuel was flowing. With these primers it is a complete guess, and I would assume plenty of these mowers have gone to an early grave because of these dodgy float needles

Interestingly enough someone has just advertised Chinese made steel
Needles and matching primer caps on eBay

Well there you go, maybe I made enough noise for somebody to listen, they won't be available for a month or so, so I made the breakthrough on ODK first and mine are much better because the cost me $1.20 each

I've got a 'project mower' in hand just now, so that I can do 'how-to' write-ups on a few repair techniques; a 1982-3 season Mayfair MK326A1 full crank 160 Ute.

The primer bulb was a bit hard/stiff, so I gave it the Armor-All treatment [which I've also had occasion to use on hoses; e.g. oxy set twin hose], and it did work very well, as expected.

Just imagine the thousands who have needlessly thrown away a great mower for one that won't last an eighth as long for a simple problem.
These ignorant consumers think a throwaway four stroke is some marvel of technical wizardry because they sound different and don't need fuel premixed.
The centre of excellence for technology, Japan absolutely loved their two stroke Suzuki vans until emissions pressure put an end to them.

I just re-read the add and it looks like they have to supply a modified primer cap to take the new needle but that is still in development stages. Be interesting to know what it will all end up costing

Do you have the ebay link? I can't find it for some reason.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Metal-Ty...retor-with-Rubber-Cone-Tip-/263057735256

They have gone with a nitrile tip which is what I was originally chasing from the States but using the nitrile tip I was hoping not to have to drill the primer cap out. They were going to cost me north of $150 so I'm sort of glad I didn't fork out for those now this mob have decided to come up with these. My cost neutral hobby would have ended up in a negative position

Thank for the link. They've copied you obviously! So much for being first�

It will be interesting to see if it stands up to their claims.

Yes I thought about getting lost wax cast needles made up by Alderdice but all the time and materials to actually do it would be astronomical. Even if done as a hobby it would be time consuming.

What a coincidence. At least this should save some Victas up this way.

Norm K, would you be buying any yourself just to see what they are like?

No I won't be buying any because I have my own and I'm guessing by the time you also buy their new primer cap and add postage they will cost about $25. My $1.20 ones will do me just fine. Funny how things work out, some of the guests must be watching what goes on here at ODK. Next I guess we will see somebody come up with a modified cam

At least after emailing them Joe has offered to send me one to try once they have some available, he is not sure when that will be

Guys,

I have thrown away and replaced a few of the G4 primer caps purely because the bulbs have gone brittle and cracked.
Surely there must be replacement bulbs available? I would rather re-use what appear to be original caps (I have saved a couple) and just replace the bulbs.? Reading this it must mean that the caps I have been buying from a reputable dealer over the years aren't original if I can only get 2 to 3 years out of them..??

I have taken a few measurements, the most critical one I think is the bulb flange diameter which appears to be 24mm. I cant see anything on ebay that would be close, 22mm is about as near it gets.... but thats not close enough.

Original parts are not that easy to come by here in the UK now, bulbs perishing maybe down to our climate/fuel etc, but if there is a problem with the valve seats/dimensions/needles in the repo caps then it makes sense to me to hang on to what could be a frugal fix?