OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Power Torque - Head Bolts

I did up my Orange Power torque and mowed some oarsome lawns..........
Anyway sunday she made a big bang and smoke came out under head.......I cleaned it off prior to pulling it apart and found a 3cm piece of head gasket.
Thought I would check the head with some 400 wet and dry sandpaper , on a piece of glass, kitchen window. It ground down very quickly so there was not any big warp.
Put it together and mowed the front lawn, then it seemed tp loose power, but I could get it back by riggling throttle, so it's the carby.
Changed the carby with 2 new o rings on manifold. . It kicked a bit bt now it's a pain in the A frame.......
I have ordered a few of those carby primer bulbs , and i will fit new ones....
I should have used a proper socket handle to tighten head bolts.....
It needed o rings as they were stuffed, so it's progress.

You just need heaps of spares to try out.................
speedy

What did you use?
It's nice that you have renewed a lot of bits and bobs, but you haven't solved the underlying cause if the motor is still being uncooperative.

I used a 120 mini socket.. it wasually works and is small to handle.
Yer it was going so well. Those primer bulbs always crack... it a carby problem.
speedy

I am not sure if this is the right place for this. This is my first attempt attempt at putting a question on this site. But I have a Victa Power Torque and I cannot get it to start at all. I have replaced all the 'O' rings as per the manuals and videos I van find. there are no leaks in the carby. The mower ran before I did the 'O' ring replacement but now it will just not start! There is spark(new plug). I am wondering what else I might try yo get this thing to go.

The problem is in the carby, they are a pig but once sorted they are a great carby, except for the brain fades that were built into them by Victa. Sorry I can't help trying to explain what needs to be done except that it has absolutely nothing to do with replacing the "O" rings. If it ran before why did you decide to replace the "O" rings

It only ran for a short period then would not restart. I followed the information as far as I could about what the problem could be and when I did replace the 'O' rings they were una poor state, flat, cracked not seating properly, so I reckoned that it would not hurt to do them all and eliminate that issue as a problem. Probably created another one.
I am not sure about the needle as it does not seem to move very freely when the float is moved up and down. Sometimes ther is more fuel than needed other times there does not seem to be any. Have also replaced this.

Welcome to the frustrating world of the LM carby, seems you have also discovered the float needle problems. I did get some after Christmas that even though they look the same they seem to work but they are still nothing to give me any confidence. I will get some more from them and see how they go. With the fuel on give the top of the carb a tap on top and sometimes this will knock the needle out of the seat and allow fuel to flow. Give that a try before I try to explain how I modify these carbs. And at this stage you haven't come up against the [Censored] kill switch problems

Thank you NormK. I have not yet encountered problems with the kill switch but I have read quite a bit about the frustrations with it. I assume my turn will come. I will give your suggestion a go to see if it works

I fixed a friends Power torque last week, the starer was cracked, so I bought an old PT from dump for $20. It needed all orings, a hole in carb I plastic welded. carb and tank full of dirt.... Any it started , perfectly, she was happy.
Before I took the rest of the old one to bits I thought I'd clean carb and put the old cracked starter backon , anyway it started and I mowed the lawn, so now it's one of my main mowers.......
The carb primer bulb was damaged so I as it works by creating pressure to force some fuel and prime hamber, I just put a tube and blew into it, it worked..

Still can't get my orange PT going, now it has no spark so will look into that.
speedy

The problem with the primer is you have to assume it is priming, and if the needle is sticking up you have no hope of it priming

Doesn't it start pissing fuel out the primer button?

Kng49, another thing you need to check it that the 3 studs holding the pull starter on are tight, this is the top seal on the motor and this could be sucking a bit of air.
Mowerfreak, it will only leak if the float needle does not shut off, remember the primer button has a hole in it.

Thanks NormK I have tightened the studs up according to the tension according to the manual
I did this when I replaced the crankcase 'O' ring. i hope that with all the 'oO' riungs being replaced the air sucking bit would be eliminated or reduced to the best level possible

OK so if it doesn't start now it is the carby, and I do not attempt to use these carbys without modifying them and that is a little project on its own, but it guarantees the carby will work

I had another go at trying to get this thing started and with a new needle (orange) from the local mower shop, it actually started!!! It even responded on a hot start attempt after it had been running for awhile. I did this ages more times and it did not miss a beat so hopefully I have got it to where I want it, it's going!!
Thanks for your input NormK, it gave me inspiration to continue to on to get the mower running again.
At the moment job's right.

Glad you got it sorted you were lucky to get a needle that works, if you can get ontop of the carby problems they are a fantastic motor, I have been fighting one this afternoon trying to get the kill switch to stop jambing up, might have to give up on this one, some will work and others I might pull to bits 20 times before I give up. I would like to meet the designer somewhere on a dark night

How frustrating these things are! I thought I would try and start the mower after my success the other day in getting it to start and restart when hot. Just to let me know who is boss, I tried it today to see if it would start, before I could really claim a success, and the thing refused to follow the rules.
Checked the carby for leaks, none; checked for fuel in the carby, ok; just would not start. Did not have time to really go much further but the needle seemed to move ok with the float when I took the primer cover off. Not sure if about its performance with the carby back together.
Looks like its back to basics again but I am not sure where to go at this point.
Any suggestions would be good. The thing is not much good if it has to be pulled apart every time I need to use it. Very frustrating.

They can be made to work perfectly but they require modification. I will hopefully do a video of the step by step modification procedure in the next day or so, it is simple but too many moves to try and explain

I have been thinking of a solution..... we need a new forum on this site for somewhere to go to post what we do when we are at the brick wall........., call it the brick wall. you just have to hit your harder against the wall, and you will win....
I make pallet furniture, here's what I made today......
it's a NBN / mobile recharge table/ and a place to put my keys... table.

cheers speedy

Norm that would be a great idea. Having seen first hand the benefits of the carby mod I can affirm that it's well worthwhile.

Hi Tiger, we are doing it as a step by step series of photos not in a video form at the moment. I have also stopped adding the extra extensions to prevent the spider from dropping because I was having problems with getting the glue to hold

Here is the link to the carby mods
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/82291.html#Post82291

Finally got the orange PT going good. It was the live wire coming off the side off the cail, the vibrations have broken the wires and the plastic coating was hard. Probably good to make new wire looms up for these old engines.

Speedy, not a common problem I have found with the Powertorques, such a brilliant design on the bottom of the motor under the heat and with the fan moving air over the wires and coil to keep them cool. Rare for a coil to fail on these

You have to watch that coil to flywheel clearance.... the wrong setting will stop them dead. it written on the bottom of the flywheel. Such a good idea. All settings should be moulded onto motors....

I got one back i sold to a mate, he said it was no good to him as he pulled the starter and as buggered before he could start mowing.
I cleaned the LM carb on the PT and half a cup of water on the fuel tank and a teaspoon in the carb. Now starts 2nd pull..........
He cleans it too much..........
cheers
speedy
ps
it a drought up here, you could drop a match and the lawns would burn, farmers are ploughing veges and cane farmers are running out of money and their water limits......................... it's bad. all footpaths are dead....

Here's the park opposite me...........

I mowed a lawn today, dry , you could burn the contents of the catcher easy. But the orange PT went well for 30 min then did a high rev low reg cycle for 15 min , tried to finish last/ chaff paddock then it stopped.......
I'll clean carb and see what happens....
Bundaberg has had driest feb in history. Fraser coast has water restrictions.....
sad speedy

It might just be getting too hot on a hot day. See how it runs tomorrow. If it goes alright again and starts giving the same symptoms again try giving it a five to ten minute break and grab a refreshment then see how it goes.

Hello Mowerfreak
It's the carby, doing similar today. I am grabbing some refreshments now and planning to take carb apart.....

Thanks
speedy

Speedy, I would be interested to know if the LM carby mod solved the problem, I'm pretty sure it would