OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Scott Bonnar 45 Restoration - Crumpet

Hi all picked up this old girl can you help me to identify it im having trouble up loading pics

[img]https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2017/01/full-11026-32247-img_5454.jpg[/img]

IM trying to also track down decals and what colours should the frame and motor be

Thanks for your time

You can get decals from a chap who sells on ebay. Motor is October 1980 manufacture. Mower is a sb 45. There should be a plate on the mower frame , can you get a photo of it. It should say sb 45 and then another series of numbers. Others will correct me if I'm incorrect on my observations. I'm not an expert on sprocket evaluation but one of them appears worn.

Brass tag has 45 31716 on it

What is the right stickers for the year model tho

Hello Crumpet

I understand your desire to get the decals right.
This is a solid deck 14".

The earliest brochure I have for the 45 seems to have been
rushed - in that there is no chain-case decal shown. However,
the second brochure (below) depicts what it should be.

These decals are available from Silensmessor on eBay.
This machine is covered in these brochures:

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/58161/BROCHURE_-_Domestic_Product_Li.html
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=64934



Hope this helps.
------------------------
Jack

So the engine is not the original to this scotty

Hello Crumpet

It's best you acknowledge responses before re-posting.

Yes, this engine cannot be original.
Solid deck 14" machines were powered by smaller silver-coloured engines...



Hope this helps.
-------------------------
Jack

Sorry cyber jack new to this stuff. Well that's a bit of a shame might post up my other machine so you can have a look and tell me a bit about it might be better off restoring that one if it's a bit more original. 😀 Also do you know where I can get my hands on some Scott bonnar hand grips ( pun not intended)😂😂😂

This question has already been answered in your post in the "Wanted" Sub Forum.

Thank you BB can you tell me if the shaft clutch would be better as the alloy 1 or the cast and all so is the busk better being plastic or brass.

Thanks for you time

Please Explain ?????

We have no idea as to what you're trying to say.
We need more information and correct spelling about the question you are asking.

Sorry Bb which one of the clutch's are better to use the cast one or the alloy i have both and they are both 3/4 shaft size

Hi CP,

Without a doubt the cast iron clutch bodies are the ducks nuts and I'd fit one of those any day over the cheap Die cast units. Sadly these are no longer available and were discontinued sometime during 1975 along with the Kirby Engine.

Cheers,
BB.

Sweet Thanks BB

I will fit the cast iron body one up with the brass thrust that I have just fabricated up.



I have also seen a clutch counterweight for sale is there a need for 1 how do i know if I need it.

I've got onto Queensland paint supplies in Rocklea and they are mixing up some green hammer tone for me to match up the same colour as the inside of the chain cover.

I'm up in the air with the handle bars being re chromed got a quote for $160 to do them will look good with them done.

Hi CP,

Love that brass thrust pad, mass produce them and you can start a business up with them. Honestly how much do you think you can make them for ?

Yes Chrome will look far superior and $160 aint a bad price.

You won't require the balance weight as that's for the diecast model clutch that uses the two grub screws and not the cotter pin.

Looking forward to seeing the colour.

Cheers,
BB.

Hi BB

Thanks it was not to bad to knock up the thrust I had taken me about 30 min. Not sure how much I could make them for just found some scrap at work and started making it
you think there's a market for it.

See how funds go for the bars I do want chrome

Thanks for the tip on the weight that is a small saving keep going at this rate I might be able to get the bars done lol

Should have paint on Friday see what they come up with hope the colour on the inside of the chain cover is right looks dark green hammer tone

Pic to come of the chain tensioner that I made too

Also HAPPY AUSTRALIA DAY

Is there a pic of a brass height adjuster nob any where it think i read that they come out with them

Happy Australia Day to you as well CP !

As far as brass Height Adjusters is concerned, they were only fitted on the Series 1 machines and went by the way of the dodo as a cost cutting exercise and replaced with the cheaper and lighter diecast unit. The brass unit was hardly noticeable as they were painted the same colour as the machine itself. There are many restorers that have made the brass unit a feature of their machine by polishing them and not painting them and why wouldn't you as brass is a far more of a decorative metal than wasting it by paint it. The same example could be made of timber, why paint it and hide its beauty when you can make it a highlight ??

Cheers,
BB.

Another reason for using brass on the Series 1 machines could be, that Scott Bonnar were brassfounders for much of their history. There's a thread on ODK HERE that mentions their exiting this business in 1974, so does the timeframe for the height adjuster material change seem about right?

Hi Gadge,

I'd say you are spot on with that observation, but I feel that they continued to use their own foundry for diecast opposed to brass as it was fast becoming the cheaper alternative and had become the new wonder metal in the 1970's as it lighter and was easy to cast, easy to machine and certainly made your tooling last much longer and lastly was so much cheaper. For a manufacturer it was a win win situation.

Sadly it's draw backs are, lack of strength, non ability to weld it successfully and basically a tad too soft. In America it was basically known as "Pot Metal".

Cheers,
BB.

here is a pic of the chain tensioner i made up too.
I need to remove a link out of the chain aswell

Hi CP,

That's a great replacement you've made there as the series one tensioner hasn't been available for years. I have to ask the question though, why do you need to remove a link from the chain ?

Cheers,
BB.

Hi BB

Did thay roll tho or did they sit stationary and the chain just wear in one spot until next service
I dont really but to allow for chain cover clearance it is a new chain and I might have missed counter the number of links

The originals were just bolted stationary and as you suggested and rotated at service time.

I must admit if I could find some round ones I would fit them onto my series one machines opposed to modifying the series two units to fit.

OK I wasn't aware that you've changed chains, thus that explains it.

Cheers,
BB.

Thanks Bb

The info is great .

Do you know if the outer rear roller bearing can be swap with any other bearings that I can get form a local bearing shop

Thanks for your time
PS some pics to come of the rebuild

How do I get this apart

HI CP,

Honestly there is no reason for stripping these halves down any further. If the reason is purely cosmetic then I'd advise that you get the rusted sections bead blasted as those bolt heads will instantly shear off if you attemp to remove them.

Cheers,
BB.

Hi BB
Thanks for the advice
It's just that inside of them are badly rusted so I was hoping too strip it out