OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines G4/LM: End Cap Not Seating On Carby

Cleaning up a powertorque carby, all going well except the end cap of the carby which has the breather hose(that connects up to engine) will not seat on the carby body. It appears to click but doesn't seat properly and comes off when a little pressure is applied. Cannot detect any warpage on either the carby body or the end cap, can you sand a little of the body away to get it to fit or is there a better way? Just to clarify, talking about part 17 onto part 7.

Don't sand it at all, check the diaphragm is seating correctly. If it still doesn't stay on, consider a new cap (17)

they have a propensity to warp..
Best to get new cap....

Thanks guys, did try a spare cap that I had, not a lot easier. Found that with the original cap it would seat if there was no diaphragm and spring. Anyway eventually got it on but the throttle cable ball end has slipped out of the throttle mechanism after I connected all the wires and hoses back up I've done a few of these carbys before, this one is proving to be very difficult.

Best is take off the motor and assemble it all then clip onto manifold

In the end this is what I did, not completely satisfied with result as throttle lever is a bit stiff at one point in its movement but anyway it runs ok.

Is the cable bent? If there is even a slight kink in the throttle cable it will seem stiff and wont move freely.

Pete.

Pete, I think it's the kill switch configuration that's causing it because it wasn't happening when the wires were out, just hard getting them to sit and work as they should and still have the cable move freely.

ah ok, in that case maybe the kill wire is inserted too far into the body of the carby?

Have you fitted a new 'long' cut out plug? Most places will sell you the long one when infact you need the short one, i just trim them down to size. Move throttle to atleast half way, apply a little bit of lube and insert the plug into the carby, push it in with a screwdriver or similar until it's just seated, then insert wires.

Wet socks you are spot on, all to do with the kill wire insertion, took a bit of fiddling around to seat it so everything was right.
Dan thank you as well, will do it exactly as you said, much easier your way, assuming you just cut a couple of mm off the long plug?

Good to see it worked out. These carbs are great once working properly and every time you do one it will get easier and easier. Every now and then though you will get one that just won't play the game. I had one yesterday that I had to re-insert the wires 3 times to get it right.

Also a helpful hint when the plugs wear out they sometimes get stuck in the hole when you pull out the pin and this will stop the next plug going in the hole - if you're not thinking clearly you can spend a fair amount of time cussing and not realise all you need to do it poke a screwdriver through the hole to push the rubber out!

Pete

Good tip Pete, I've done a few of these carbs, you're right, they do work well and the few I've done have been ok to work with. This current one has been difficult for no obvious reason.

The biggest issue i see with these is using non genuine parts. I picked up a near new mower this week after the owner put a carb kit through it and wouldn't start since. The bloody (yellow) needle was atleast 2mm too long (Poo quailty control) it couldn't let any fuel in. Fitted a genuine (orange) one, bingo! Ive come across non-genuine cut out plugs in some cases the rubber is simply too soft and they didnt work correctly, air filters don't clip on the fitting and seal correctly as the hole is slightly too big. It's just crap, i only use genuine parts for the carbs in some cases they are the same price or cheaper.

The carby I was working on still had the original end cap I think so not sure why it was so difficult, I couldn't detect any warpage either. I always ask before I buy Victa parts whether they are genuine and I'm assured that they are, I wonder sometimes. Needle being 2 mm longer, that's appalling. You have me worried, most kits I've bought have yellow needles, must check their length.

2mm was probably an exaggeration but anyways here's a comparison picture, not even close!

I could be wrong but I believe all the different colours are different sizes. Not 100% on the reasons for it but that's what I've been told. The shape of that yellow one is a bit off and I can't see it actually sealing in the seat anyway (Looks blunt) however the pink/red one there looks to be a bit worn down too.

Pete

good point , seems almost always its the black ones that work well now yellow never seem to work , but then again .... its taking 2 or 3 go's now the get the primercap to seal often now even with new o ring , is it just me ?

I cant think of any logical reason for different lengths, the caps, floats and bodies are virtually all the same. As far as i was aware the colour just distinguishes genuine and non genuine. I have some black ones too they seem alright size/shape though can have dags/bit of excess plastic on them. Like i said genuine orange victa is usually the same price. Yeah i get the odd one that takes a couple goes at sealing, sometimes a used oring cant actually help in these cases.

No, I've had the same thing happen to me. You need to get just the right amount of tightness on the brass jet screw for the primer cap to hold. Never had any luck with used o-rings either.