OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Double SB45 restoration

Hi mikeo,

Well that was done all rather quickly.

Can you please supply some photos of the rails so that we can archive them for future usage as this topic is becoming more common than you think.

Also can you put up progress photos as you go so that all of us can refer to them just like the thread you highlighted a few posts back now ?

I'd be interested how much the re-chroming is going to cost as it's a lot more expensive now than it used to be.

As far as nuts and bolts are concerned I don't think we have that on file as that was never made available by SB at any stage. The only thing I can suggest is that you take a sample to an outlet like Coventry Fasteners, United Fasteners etc. and they'll match it up pretty close to your originals.

BTW. we are all glad you've decided to proceed with the project. I'm sure it will be a fine example when completed.

Cheers,
BB

re-chroming the bars in their not pitted from rust condition is going to be around the $200 mark. still thinking about that one

here is a pic of separated bits to go off to sandblasting. the engine mount cracks were repaired in the standard way(groove and tig weld). Would still like to make an improvement to the mount bolts in the future, maybe on the 17" just focusing efforts on one machine at a time so lucky number 20" gets to go first.

Hi Mikeo,
Great progress on the mower. I have purchased decent replacement deflectors and catchers over here in the West from Needham sheetmetal. They have all the patterns. Bit far from you but may be a good starting point in finding someone local. I have also reinforced my 20" twin rail with some steel gussets in the hope it will offer more protection from the issues already discussed in this thread. My opinion is it must be of some help as I intend to keep the mower and use it as a working example. I have posted a pic of my repair on my current thread. On another note I have completed all work on my mower myself (less the welding-done by a good mate) including removing the bottom blade. If you take care and time anything is possible so enjoy your project. I look forward to your future posts.
Mr Jones.

Hi mikeo,

Firstly thank you for that photo.

Now am I correct in my observation regarding the rear rail that it is slightly sagged due to heat ?
I have just had a friend of mine drop off his chassis that has been professionally welded and it also has a slight amount of sag towards the middle. It will have to have the engine slightly shimmed up on the two centre mounting points so as to perfectly align it to the clutch.

I'm starting to feel that a gusset should be welded in place on the underside before all the fractures are welded up. This would reduce sag or twist in the rail. Again a pro would know this I'd say.

Please run a straight edge along the top of the rail and see if there is any gap between the straight edge and the rail in the middle area and let us know.

Cheers,
BB

Thanks Mr. Jones. I'll pop over to your thread and check it out.

I thought the the rails were sagged too in the middle at first glance and i quickly ran a straight edge along it to find maybe a 1-2mm drop but looked more like a loss of material and paint due to grinding back welds flat. it will be a test to see how it pulls up with engine bolts tightened up and checking alignment with clutch.

had another quote on the chrome at $150 plus gst so am getting lower. long lead times on the job though due to a high number of vehicle restorations it seems. One plater had 5 months of work booked in

I managed to find some hammerite hammer finish paint in the deep green that had been used previously in another restore thread. reel and bedknife are being done in delicious red.

I found a fella near me that is making some replica catchers. i am going to propose to him to fab me up a new deflector. the 20" deflector still has the top and bottom mounting brackets on it so should be able to recover those for re-use. also have the deflector on the 17" in VGC to use as a template.

I have the original 20" catcher with pressed side plates. the bottom is rusted out and its fairly dented but would really like to have a go at repairing it before using a replica as i like the side plates much better. i'll see what the expert says

is this what all solid decks look like underneath in terms of the engine mounting bolt plates? or have these been retro-fitted in this case?


thats very similar to what i was envisioning for my repair

also Mr. Jones, can i ask how you achieved the polished finish on the front roller of your 17" rebuild? is it a polish and clear coat?

Hi mikeo,

I must admit that I'd not run the risk of using the engine block to pull the rail up as it's made of die cast which isn't that strong especially when there's a constant stress load put on it and also vibration. I would shim it up instead as that's less strain on all components.

I must admit that I like the following method of shoe horning that folded up section into the underneath of the rail and what's also important is the way the threaded nuts have been stitched into the folded gusset so as to strengthen the actual mount point better than original.



The only downside to this is that it's a rust trap with ramifications to appear later on.

Cheers,
BB

Easy Mikeo, Its a brand new roller and end caps purchased locally. No secrets here.

Sandblasted completed. Painting is 99% done now. Waiting for that to dry nice and hard. Have been polishing nuts...........and bolts, and springs, handlebars. Got some new stickers. Waiting on some end caps, grips and the engine. Reel is off getting sharpened still. Bit cloudy up here so photos dont do the paint colour justice. such a cool colour, deeeeep. corona box full of small painted parts. running out of room very quickly.

assembly has begun. rear roller is complete and in frame.

Starting to look good! If you don't mind me asking....how much was it to sharpen the reel and bed knife? I need to do the same. Also, does anyone here in WA know where to get this done and at a reasonable price?

Going to disassemble my SB45 soon and check to see what needs replacing and what has to be repaired. I know for sure, that the clutch is trashed and must be replaced.

I use Armadale Mowers in Champion Drive, Armadale. They do a good job and I can't remember what I paid but they are just aground the corner from me. They also stock most S.B parts

My reel and bedknife sandblasted/painted/sharpened incl postage return was $195. I think you have to PM if you want the details of the place.

20" all done. ready for another 38 years of service.

That's sweet, well done! Mine's never going to look like that.

Bet you could also sell that for a pretty penny.

It is going to be sold, I really thought about keeping it but its just too big for my place. It just looked so good next to the fair condition 17" I also have. My 17" machine will be next job. Will be hard actually using a restored machine for lawn duties though. Just to get the 20" onto the front lawn for photos involved laying down a path of foam camping floor mats and getting the missus to help lift and carry It would be heartbreaking to damage or scuff the paint after all the effort to get it perfect.

Hi Mikeo,

Congratulations are definitely in order on the completion of this one.

It's certainly turned out to be much better than parting it out hasn't it. A lovely result indeed.

May I ask a couple of questions ?

Firstly why did you do the late 1960's colour scheme and decals on it opposed to the late 1970's which the machine actually is ?

Also, did you purchase the catcher from Jason (SB Obsession)?

Cheers,
BB