OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers First Scott Bonnar 45 Resto

No worries Perthmower,, and glad to see you got it stripped and everthing went OK for you...

Re re-painting the engine, before you mask it up, give everything a good cleanup first by degreasing and when hosed off and completely dry, rub all the painted surfaces down with a product called 'Prepsol' or otherwise known as 'Wax and grease remover...

You can get it from an automotive paint shop, or Super-Cheap, auto-One etc., and comes in 1 litre cans. Just be careful with it...it is extremely flammable...so no sparks or smoking around it!

I had nothing to do so instead of blasting I got to it with an abrasive disk
And emry getting it smothish lol
Guys, what primer should I use on this?
Thinking of some sort of filler first?

You'll need to match the type of primer to the paint that you're going to use (over the top of it). For example, if you're planning on using enamel, use an enamel primer. If you're going to use acrylic lacquer, use an acrylic primer.

You can usually get away with spraying enamel over an acrylic primer, but not the other way around.

If you've got access to a spray booth, you could consider 2 pack.

If you have some larger scratches or imperfections, you can use a 2 part automotive filler. There are primer fillers and spray putties as well, but unless they're 2 pack, they don't have very high builds and they tend to shrink back over time... revealing the imperfections again

Hmm, are there 2pac fillers in a can?
Pretty sure you can use 2pac fillers/primers than acrylic paints?

Which way would you?

Cheers rolla

You wont find 2 pack paint in an aerosol can I'm afraid. It's called 2 pack / 2k because it's a 2 part paint (base and catalyst) and needs to be applied with a spray gun. It also contains isocyanate which is very hazardous to your health. It's strictly the stuff of professional spray booths and the operator would normally wear a pressure spray suit with breathing gear. It's unsafe and probably illegal to apply at home.

I've heard of acrylic being applied over 2k primers but I've got no experience with it myself. You could always ask a paint rep. If you're going to use a 2 pack primer, you may as well use a 2 pack base coat and clear. It'll be more durable and less work.

If you're painting at home, stick to enamel or acrylic

Do I need to put on a rust protection? Or is that in the primer?
Will need to do some research I think haha

I will use this as a primer I think
http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au...tal-paint/rust-guard/primer/metal-primer

Then paint with hammertone

The paint itself will be the rust protection, provided that you've prepared the surface well before priming, and that you've got good coverage.

The whiteknight paints are an enamel and really easy to apply. Just take your time and do lots of light coats, you want to avoid runs at all costs. Enamel will take a lot longer to flash off than acrylic so it's easier to get some runs if you're a little heavy fingered on the aerosol or spray gun.

The can will have guidelines on how long to leave between coats, follow that and keep em nice and light and it'll look sweet. There's no cutting and polishing with enamel, so when you're doing your very last colour coat, you can go a little heavier just to get a nice glossy appearance and you're done.

Can't seem to find hammertone in any green at all ?
Any hints as to where to get similar to original colour?

Might just paint colour as peettee has done if I can't get any

Cheers

Hi again Perthmower, and ODK members,

I have a mate who works in the automotive paint field that told me recently he could probably match the colour, starting with a hammertone deep tint base and gradually adding the tinters, to come up with the final Scotty colour.

You would need to take a part of your machine with the original colour (inside of the chain-case cover would be perfect) to your local auto paint supplier and ask him to get in some hammertone deep tint base and then do the colour match for you....

You may have to try a few places to find someone that can actually colour match from a sample. Most retail auto paint suppliers will only match from a paint code (usually found under the car bonnet). Unfortunately there is no code to go by for our beloved Scott Bonnars.

I used to work in an auto store mixing and selling paint (10 years ago admittedly) and we were all useless at trying to colour match, so we only went by code. Having said that, I have no doubt an old painter with some years in the game could match it easily. I'd hazard a guess that Darryl's mate is one of those kind of tradesmen, just what you need!

If you go down this track it will most likely be acrylic lacquer that you're supplied, so grab your primer at the same time to suit

Oh and if you're not worried about the hammertone, there's plenty of great looking greens (or whatever other colour) in both metallic or solid as off the shelf colours. I've seen other restorations get very close to the original colour, just not with the hammered effect.

I took an old Honda GXV120 cowl to my local Bunnings for colour matching. After I rejected the local expert's selection (White Knight Rust Guard Flame Red) she applied a small instrument to the cowl I'd brought and read off three primary colour dimensions, then mixed up a sample. However she also painted a sample piece with some of the Flame Red. We agreed that the Flame Red was a better match, though it is difficult to get it exact when the sample cowl was as faded as mine was.

So, if you want to match a colour, find a Bunnings where the colour match expert is a lady of 70-odd who's been doing it a while.

Lol to the 70yr old lady in bunnings, there all 17yrs old

It's not going to be a show piece so I might just find a good colour as this will be easier I think,
I have already primed the chassis is rust guard enamel primer

Might have to try super cheap or something like that, anyone know a name of paint that is close to the oriniginal?
Although not close that sherwood green looks nice that someone on here has done

Ok guys, how do I remove the clutch part without damaging anything?

Cheers

The round piece of metal sticking out of the inner clutch half is a captive cotter pin, can you please take a close-up pic of it and post here.
Thanks mate,

Right, Perthie, now we are in business. I want you to tap the top of that cotter, (which you obviously have, without the nut on) gently down, as far as it will go...that should release the inner clutch half from the shaft, and slide it off the PTO engine shaft. A good idea is to soak the cotter with Penetrene (ie. all around it) and tap gently away,,,once you get it moving, you are in business!

Perfect ! It worked a treat

Cheers

Good stuff mate! What was the condition of the cork lining in the other clutch half like?