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Joined: Mar 2008
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Thanks Tomo! It worked exactly as you described, getting a spark. Now for the compression.

Joined: May 2012
Posts: 467
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sounds good now ! wouldn't go pulling the engine down , your visual inspection through exhaust sounds promising , just block decomp hole and make sure you have the two resistances.
those old 125cc normally run well after a points and carb clean.
as far as the loose decomp top , not uncommon and normally doesn't affect the operation
cheers tomo

Last edited by tomo4192; 20/08/13 04:36 PM.
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I haven't been able to feel the 2 resistances as you described Tomo but I went ahead and put some petrol into the spark plug hole to see if it would fire up. I pulled a few times and nothing happened but on the fifth pull there was a small explosion, maybe I put too much petrol in. I thought good sign, at least something is happening. I then put more petrol into the spark-plug hole and after pulling on it about 10 times it started up and ran for a few seconds. There's still work to do on this but I'd like to know a few things.
1) I tried to adjust the timing the best I could, the fact that it took a number of pulls to get it going, does that suggest that the timing is perhaps not quite right or will it not start if the timing is out?
2) There's not much of the snorkel left and therefore plenty of air is getting in, would that have any effect in starting the mower?
3) The photo above shows how that instead of the conventional spark plug boot there is something resembling an electronic spade terminal, can I stick a screw into the high tension lead (what size?) and get a spark plug boot for it?

Joined: May 2012
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Hey there , the fact that the engine fires is a good sign .
as far as timing goes it can cause erratic running hard starting or even dislocate your shoulder (kick back) as long as your points are just starting to open at 3mm before tdc its close enough .

the snorkel is important as the air cleaner gives the engine restriction.

the spade terminal looks ok they originally came out with a similar terminal , a victa later model spark plug boot is easy to get heaps listed on ebay and then just a screw about 2cm long and not to fat will screw up the ignition cable, then push boot over top.

the hard start from fuel down the plug hole , most likely just caused from a wet spark plug from a little to much fuel , when the fuel is forced from the crank case to the cylinder in normal running the fuel enters more of a mist rather than a liquid, once you cleared enough of the fuel you put down the plug hole it fired .
cheers , mitch

Joined: Mar 2008
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Thanks Mitch sounds like you really know your stuff. Appreciate you answering all my questions. I've got a snorkel from another mower but don't remember what type of mower I got it, can they be easily adapted from one to another?

Joined: May 2012
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been tinkering with victa 2 strokes for a long time now they were all i ever touched once ! , as far as the snorkel goes the air cleaner pipe is a pretty standard size about 32mm should be able to dummy somthing up.
ill wander out to the shed and take a picture of what ive done in the past.

Joined: May 2012
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ok so this part is off a later victa 2 stroke with whats known as a g4 , its has the throttle cable running inside the snorkel , local mower shop should have one you can use .
remove the rubber end (or trim the rubber and use the bend )
remove the throttle control and cable from the other end .
you can get away with just pushing the pipe on to the carby like pictured and also onto the air cleaner .
make sure you re-use your hose clamp for good measure.


[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Last edited by tomo4192; 21/08/13 04:13 PM.
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Thanks Mitch, pictures are very clear and great for understanding the process.

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The spare snorkel i have is the corrugated type from the powertorque engines. I didn't manage to get the rubber radiator type hose which was the old snorkel off the mayfair over the corrugated hose, the rubber hose didnt have enough give. Can anything be done to stretch the rubber hose over the corrugated one?

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Hey man . don't think its possible to strech it
over the corriggated one . but the corrigated
one will do the job until you find a rubber one

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Could cut the cable as the powertorque snorkel was a little short too grin

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i normally remove the power torque control/air box and cable?

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Originally Posted by tomo4192
i normally remove the power torque control/air box and cable?


Sorry Mitch, what do u mean here?

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sorry ive lost where this is going haha did you mean you were going to trim the rubber end to make the pipe long enough ?

Joined: Mar 2008
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Originally Posted by tomo4192
sorry ive lost where this is going haha did you mean you were going to trim the rubber end to make the pipe long enough ?


No the powertorque snorkel is a couple of inches shorter than the original rubber hose, one thing I thought about was cutting the throttle cable and moving the air filter/throttle switch down, this would mean i could use the powertorque snorkel (it is a good fit on the inlet). Its getting late though and maybe I'm not making sense.

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oh ! i get it now , did you use the rubber bent end that was connected to the corrugated pipe ? would give you a few more inches

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No I couldn't join them.

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the one i had in the photos had a rubber end with a wide section to connect to the corrugated pipe

[Linked Image]

Joined: Mar 2008
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I tried to widen the rubber hose to match what you had but there wasn't enough give in it. I'll try the Reject Store to get some hose. Rang 2 mower shops and they didn't have any hose.

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I can send you the rubber bend if you need it just
pm postal address

Joined: Mar 2008
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Originally Posted by tomo4192
I can send you the rubber bend if you need it just
pm postal address


Thanks Mitch, I have sent you a PM, the hose would have to fit the throttle cable body outlet.

Joined: Mar 2008
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Have put some fresh petrol into the petrol tank but alas the mower will not fire up so there is a carby problem.
1) From what I can see in the manual this mower has a G3 carby, I can't see how to get it off so that I can clean/inspect it. How many parts must be disconnected so I can get the carby off?
2) The petrol tank (plastic) has a couple of small cracks in it. One is hairline, the other a little thicker. Are there any products/fixes that can be used to repair this?
3) There is a priming button near the carby with what looks like a vent hole (?) nearby, is petrol suppose to trickle out of it after pressing the primer? How many primes are needed on these? Is it like the G4 which says 1 but really needs 3 primes?

Joined: May 2012
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Hey ! Yes g3 carb to remove there is a clamp holding it on the cylinder
Like a hose clamp use a flat blade screw driver to loosen. disconnect throttle cable
disconnect fuel line and kill switch wire then jiggle off carb
All you should have to do is remove the two screws under carb and remove float bowl
carful not to damage gasket
you will see a little brass fitting
this is the jet remove it and blow it and the holes under it with compressed air

Joined: May 2012
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This will clear any obstuctions clean and re assemble .
the primer you simply holdd down until fuel comes out the hole below the primer.
Those plastic tanks were prone to wearing through and crack ect if its not leaking don't
stress be carful with the vane on the carb don't force it to move this
strips the gears in the carb and will cause over revving

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Originally Posted by tomo4192
the primer you simply holdd down until fuel comes out the hole below the primer.

No fuel came out of the hole when I pressed on the primer.

Joined: Mar 2008
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Originally Posted by tiger
Originally Posted by tomo4192
the primer you simply holdd down until fuel comes out the hole below the primer.

No fuel came out of the hole when I pressed on the primer.


Further to that, I kept pressing on the Primer (or Tickler as I believe it's called) and may have pressed it too many times. I checked the spark plug and it was a little wet so I guess I could have flooded the engine?

Joined: May 2012
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hey there ,
sounds like your getting fuel if your plugs wet , normally you would get a trickle out the hole below the tickler , your needle and seat may need cleaning it may not be seating properly

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Mower starts fine if I use start ya bastard but I'll give the carby a clean today. The muffler is missing the washer that attaches to the engine. Also can't see where the muffler clip attaches to on the body of the mower.

Joined: May 2012
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hey man , sounds like the carby is the next place to start, i wouldnt run it on start you bastard as this makes the engine run dry and does damage quickly the muffler clips hold onto the cylinder .
the washer is just a gasket you can get away with it not being there. but are available new still

Joined: Mar 2008
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Thanks again Tomo, have now cleaned the carby, pressed the tickler and got some petrol but the mower won't start. I'm assuming the muffler clip goes on the bottom of the muffler but there's no where convenient on the mower for the clip to go onto.
Also the throttle cable doesn't turn the mower off and doesn't really change the revs as it should. At this point just happy to get the mower started and take your point about the Start ya Bastard.

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