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#3216 19/05/06 03:22 PM
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,427
Likes: 36
Repair Junkie
****
James,

Make sure you give the cylinder that I sent a good clean before you install it.


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
#3217 20/05/06 08:12 AM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 30
Novice
Hi Bruce,

Can you please confirm the ring order on the piston ... I have one with white steel layer on black, one black and one thin kinked one. I am assuming like so:

top groove: kinked on then black ring on top
bottom groove: white steel layered ring

Cheers

James

#3218 20/05/06 10:08 AM
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,427
Likes: 36
Repair Junkie
****
James,

The piston ring that has a silver colour is the top ring and the black coloured is the bottom (one nearest the skirt of piston). yay


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
#3219 22/05/06 10:18 PM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 30
Novice
Hi Bruce,

How do you get the top bearings out? The cam that the points ride on (top of crank) does not look as though it will fit through the top alloy casing of the crank case. There seems to be a shaped hole in the alloy casing, but I dont think it is big enough??? (about 1mm too small)

I had no trouble replacing the bottom bearing and seal.

Cheers

James

#3220 22/05/06 11:35 PM
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,427
Likes: 36
Repair Junkie
****
James,

Do you have the crankshaft out of the top housing(point side)?

The top crank side should be 20mm shaft and if so the top bearing will be correct.

As to getting out the top bearing you need the crankshaft out then you get a drift to drive the bearing towards the centre as you will see in this drawing.

[Linked Image from i65.photobucket.com]


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
#3221 28/05/06 07:04 PM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 30
Novice
Hi Bruce,

All good now!!

  • [Linked Image from i56.photobucket.com]



rockband

Thanks!!!

James

#3222 28/05/06 08:13 PM
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,427
Likes: 36
Repair Junkie
****
James,

Does it start easy now?

Suggestion:

I would move the starter around so that is facing towards the back wheel. bigshock

Reason:

When you start the mower it is always advisable that you place your foot on the back of the rear wheel because if you fall over or the compression is high you will push the mower away from your feet. The way it is at the moment you could pull the mower onto your self and cause a lot of hospital bills. chainsaw


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
#3223 29/05/06 07:57 AM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 30
Novice
Hi Bruce,

I moved starter as you suggested. It now starts from cold 1-2 pulls, and hot 2 pulls. It seems to be getting easier to start as I use it more.

Cheers

James

#3224 29/05/06 10:31 AM
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,427
Likes: 36
Repair Junkie
****
James,

Did you clean the carby jets and did you check the float level (it should be 3/16").

The mower should start 1st pull when hot if it the settings are correct.

You should only have to pull the rope about 1 1/2 foot when hot starting it sounds like an air leak or a carby problem now.

Which side did you put the ring gap on the exhaust side or the inlet side? confused


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
#3225 29/05/06 03:05 PM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 30
Novice
Hi Bruce,

The manual said gaps to exhaust side in my model (hope this was correct). I will re check the float, I calibrated a few weeks ago. The bottom seal is now dry (no dust). I have flushed the carby but not cleaned the jets specifically by dissasembling the emulsion chamber.

Cheers

James

#3226 29/05/06 08:28 PM
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,427
Likes: 36
Repair Junkie
****
James,

You have set ring gap on the correct side. yay

I would suggest that you remove the jet in the carby and check the float level. bigshock

When you put the two half's of the crankcase together did you use any gasket sealant. confused


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
#3227 30/05/06 08:12 AM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 30
Novice
Hi Bruce,

I used gasket goo to join the two halves. cool

I will clean/adjust the carby as suggested.

BTW: I think I know why the engine spat a ring ... The ring pieces that I cleaned out of the exhaust where carbon black and the ring that remained was in the second grove and was steel faced (it had the spring under it as well) ... I think the rings must have been put in the wrong order and this would have caused the carbon black one to flap around (as it had no spring) and catch on the exhaust port ... ?? rolleyes

Cheers

James

#3228 30/05/06 10:01 AM
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,427
Likes: 36
Repair Junkie
****
James,

If they had the oil ring under the top ring(compression) that is why it broke as it should be under the bottom ring.

Let me know how it all goes. cheers


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
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