OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Tech Talk Broken drive shaft

Thanks Murray, Yeh I'll remember that for the future. How hard was it to get the old cork off and what did you use to glue it back on.

To get the old corks off, I just peeled them off with a knife which then left the glue to remove.
The glue seems to be like Selleys or Norton Bear contact cement.
I found that by brushing some petrol on the glue, which softened it, I was the able to rub it off with a rag.
Once the glue was off, I used a wire brush to take the gloss off the surface to be re-glued. I also used some wax and grease remover to clean this surface to give the glue the best chance of sticking.
I used Selleys contact cement to glue the corks back on.
It is heat and water resistant.
I just used a small paint brush and applied the the glue to the cork and the clutch plate and allowed it to become touch dry as per the instructions on the can.
Then you very carefully stick the cork to the clutch plate.
You only get one chance at this as the glue is instant stick.
Once the cork is in place, I just used a small block of wood and hammer to gently tapped the cork down. All done and just like new.

Cool, thanks for that Murray. I've heard that loctite even have a glue for this but Bear Contact would be a lot cheaper.

I use cheap contact cement (Parfix, from Bunnings) to glue the 36-grit abrasive cloth sheets to the flat steel surface of my flat-disc grinder. That runs serious, solid streams of sparks for long periods of time - it is a 14 inch, 1.5 hp, three phase, belt-drive machine and I use it to its limits most of the time, changing sheets when necessary (I keep a stack of 100-plus sheets on hand). The only time I ever had trouble with the contact cement was when I used expensive spray-on industrial stuff. I can tell you, having a heavy 14 inch abrasive sheet whistle past your ear at 2200 rpm convinces you immediately to review your gluing practices.

The important things are getting the metal surface clean and flat before you attach the new sheet, so your clutch surface will be smooth, following the glue manufacturer's directions, and checking it carefully before you put it into service. I do one thing differently from Murray: I clamp the glue joint for at least 24 hours after pressing the surfaces together. Before I began doing that, I found if I tried hard enough I could sometimes peel the joint apart. For my purposes, that is unacceptable: it is a safety issue.

Good tips there Grumpy.
On the Selley's contact cement I used, clamping was only recommended if using the "wet gluing" technique.

I've used the Bear contact in industrial maintenance situations and have never had a problem.
It's the first time I've used the Selley's, but by reading the can, it's the same glue.

Safety is very important, so choosing the correct adhesive for the job and following manufacturers instructions critical.

Murray, I have issues with the whole wet-versus-dry gluing technique. I find if I use wet glue, I need to clamp it for several days to get a really good bond strength. If I try to follow the dry directions I sometimes get no adhesion - I can't break through the surface film unless I clamp the joint. Because I'm concerned at the possibility of getting only a partial bond (only breaking through the dry film over part of the glued area) I wait for the surface to become very tacky, then clamp it. Results so far have been consistently good, as demonstrated by the problems I have breaking the glue joint to replace the abrasive sheets for the grinder. So, it may be that I've come to this approach because I always did a lousy job of dry gluing. However because safety is involved in my application (and to a lesser extent in yours) I currently think clamping is a considerable advantage, and well worth the additional trouble.