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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Novice
G'day fellas.

As some of you are aware, I've been attempting to rebuild the blown engine in my greenfield ride-on. (blew a con-rod). So far I've gotten it all back to together and mounted in place. I'm having a hell of a time re-fitting the drive-pulley with the key in place as I don't have room to bloody move underneath. I don't know if the engine will work yet as it seems my battery needs to be re-charged (sigh). I'm also a not sure how to refit the drive-belt without removing the big-arsed tension spring on the pully directly under the seat and trying to stretch it back into place?

In the meantime, I've been emailing various dealers around the country about the possibility of new engines and one fella said a few of his customers have cut out the engine mounts and refitted the new engine with the head facing forwards.

I was wondering what you guys thought about that? I'm guessing this will mean the shaft/drive pully will be in a different position requiring a different length drive belt?

Thanks for all your comments and advice so far guys cheers2


Dirty Berty's Lawn & Garden Care
Servicing the Moreton Bay Region
www.dirtybertys.com
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Novice
Just had a response from the same fella saying "yes it will move the drive shaft forward, then I could use a 15.5hp briggs & strat with some wiring mods, or just go with their 13.5hp b&s intek ncluding fuel tank, muffler and pull-start for $850 incl postage.

That actually sounds like a good deal pricewise. Still waiting for the battery to charge to see if my current engine is workable.

I forgot to mention one of the sump bolts has stripped the thread in the hole so it won't tighten (bolt just near the cam-gear. Not sure how to go about re-cutting the hole for a larger bolt, or if I'm stuffed again.

Oh the things we do to save money! ARGH



Dirty Berty's Lawn & Garden Care
Servicing the Moreton Bay Region
www.dirtybertys.com
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Novice
I'm thinking my battery charger has had it's day. It was only a cheapy my Mum gave me god knows how many years ago but it gave enough of a trickle charge to start turning it over, just not enough to keep going till the engine fired itself. I was hoping to check the fluid levels and top up with distilled water and de-sulfation addative (can't remember the name) to maintain the battery but it seems to be a sealed unit (it's a century brand, so at least it's a decent one) banghead

Atleast I know it's got good compression as I now can't turn the flywheel around by hand. Hell even the air-ratchett and air-impact wrench wasn't enough to turn it (only an Aldi 2hp compressor mind you) I'm hoping that's actually a GOOD sign! confused

Sorted out the drive-belt. I had one of my infamous "well duh" moments and checked the manual I downloaded from this forum (thank you Bruce!!) again and realised it's called a notch bar simply because the leaf-spring sits in the notch and stops it from moving. Easy to loosen the leaf-spring and lever the tension-spring with a big screwby. Pulley moved up easily, cleaned out dust and debris, slipped the belt in place then reversed the process with a pair of vice-grips holding the spring up high on the screwby to leverage it back into place on the notch bar. Right, got THAT sorted. yay

Next trick will be hoiking the damn thing up on car-ramps to get under it to install the drive-pulley properly with the pulley-key in place. Yes I realise this also means removing the drive-belt again, but now I know the trick it's no worries. banghead

Talk about learning curve... Did I mention I'm an ex-baker/business admin/child-care/mural artist? Thankyou youtube and outdoorking! new

You know... now I've tackled this engine I probably COULD have gotten that 5hp self-propelled rover going again (the ute's roof-ornament) rolleyes


Dirty Berty's Lawn & Garden Care
Servicing the Moreton Bay Region
www.dirtybertys.com
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,382
Likes: 34
Repair Junkie
****
Hi Dirty Berty and :welcome: aboard to the forum. I would make a suggestion with tools etc, you want to spend a bit to get the right stuff to work on your equipment because later on you will realise why I say this.

What I have found in the past relating to getting springs back onto areas is that a piece of starter rope is an excellent tool for doing it because you don't scrap your knuckles when the vice grips slip off and it works well for hard to get at areas.

As to battery charges we use the arlec type and even they break down after a while but not that expensive to replace.

Once again :welcome: to the forum and I am sure that you will get some good advice from the moderators as they are a great bunch of guy's. cheers2


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 37
Novice
G'day Bruce. Thanks for that, the starter rope is a good idea. I've got all sorts of bits of rope with my work gear so I should have thought of that too.

I'm slowly building up to decent gear, but with 5 kids and work-equipment, I kinda have to make do with what I can. It makes perfect sense of course, the better the equipment, the better the job.

The battery has been taking a charge over night and I've actually had the engine firing up a few times. Blowing white smoke (excess oil i'm guessing) and farting a bit before dying off again. (Well at least it's a start!!) I'm assuming the carby needs adjusting after I pulled it apart to blow the crap out, but without it running it's hard to know HOW to adjust it, and the battery keeps loosing it's charge keeping it ticking over.

I've since realised the chain of events leading to the con-rod blowing wasn't just the low oil and previous stress. When I hit the tradies pliers hiding in the long grass it seems to have sheared the flywheel key instead of damaging the crank-shaft, so that was sitting off centre and presumably affecting the spark timing. I'm wondering if this is why the battery drained out in the first place. At a very un-educated guess that's caused the engine to keep stalling with the air-filter in place (would run if I took it off).

Leaving it sitting on an angle at the bottom of the hill (where I had to leave it stranded over night) with bugger all oil in it would have been the cause of it blowing the con-rod the next morning when I chucked the re-charged battery back in and fired it up.

Now to track down a replacement flywheel key!! I've ordered a briggs & stratton repair manual on cd-rom so that'll be very handy once it arrives I'm sure. In the mean time, does any of this make sense to you guys??


Dirty Berty's Lawn & Garden Care
Servicing the Moreton Bay Region
www.dirtybertys.com

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