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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 27
Novice
I have a wonderful one owner (before me) example of these, which ran perfectly until I hit some bricks hidden in long grass. The deck came up rapidly with the handle whacking my right leg just below my right knee.
It did some damage, with the brake arm now fouling the side of the cutter pulley when the deck is down, and when up, the brake pad arm is a long way from the lower face of the pulley - and the brake pad has gone. I cannot see how to get it all to line up again - nothing seems bent.[Linked Image]

Of greater concern is the piece of metal found on top of the deck - 8.75: long, holes 7" apart, with witness marks each end. I cannot see where it has come from.
Can anyone please point me in the right direction for fixing this, and identifying the mystery part and where it might have come from?
Many thanks,
Doug (Brisbane)

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cutter down.jpg (19.87 KB, 18 downloads)
cutter up.jpg (24.66 KB, 18 downloads)
metal piece.jpg (10.25 KB, 18 downloads)
witness marks on metal piece.jpg (118.83 KB, 18 downloads)
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 212
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Hi Doug ,

With the flat bit of metal 8.75: long all I can see in the parts manual is a slot like the grass or dirt left on
the flat metal where the bolt hole is thus indicating it's possibly from the top of the cutter deck above the discharge port
or possibly underneath ,could be used to prevent flexing or cracking of the cutter base where other components (like the chute or guards) attach.

You may need to undo a bolt move the brackets so they are straight then tighten the bolt .

Cheers
Max.

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base.jpg (45.84 KB, 11 downloads)
cutter-down 1.jpg (20.07 KB, 7 downloads)
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 27
Novice
Thanks Max.
I spent some time on it this morning and have answered both of my questions, as follows:
1. The reason for the odd configuration of the cutter brake bell crank was that the threaded rod that goes to the front of the mower and back into the U piece that attaches to the top of the bell crank had been pulled so hard the spring had bound and the end of the rod had been pulled out of its hole and was jammed against the cross piece. Easily fixed once it was out.
2. The plate with the threaded holes is an Engine Mounting Bolt Plate. The engine mount bolts go down beneath the engine deck and screw into it. Need some Loctite for next time. If there is enough clearance I'm going to get longer bolts so I can put Nyloc nuts on so it can never vibrate loose again.
Cheers
Doug


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