It does get a little confusing Norm because of what people call the rectifier when referring to the charging system.
I thought you had already tested the stator output to confirm the red wire has a Rectifier diode ( converts AC to DC)
This is something you test or look up part numbers to be sure what you have as there are a few different charging systems.
If the red wire doesn't convert AC to DC then it must just be a Diode.
Non-Rectifying Diode or Protection Diode: There are instances where the diode serves a different purpose, such as:
Flyback or Protection Diode: It might be used to prevent voltage spikes or back EMF from damaging the stator or electrical components, but this typically will still serve to redirect current rather than perform rectification.
In some systems, particularly where DC is necessary, the diode is used primarily for protection rather than full rectification, but this would be less common.
If the component in question is converting AC (alternating current) to DC (direct current), it is functioning as a rectifier diode
The rectifier diode also prevent reverse flow of current back to the stator.
People can refer to the rectifier diode as just a rectifier or just a diode but the correct term is rectifier diode if it converts AC to DC.
It's a Rectifier that has diodes inside so people call it a diode or rectifier , if you test the DC output and it's unregulated your rectifier doesn't have an inbuilt regulator.
The primary function of a rectifier is to convert alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC), and this is accomplished by using diodes.
Additionally, check if there are any additional components in your charging system that may also contribute to voltage regulation
1 With the Basic Rectifier: If it is simply a diode rectifier, then it will only convert AC to DC without regulating the voltage. In this case, the output voltage can vary with engine speed and can exceed the desired voltage, potentially leading to overcharging the battery.
A basic rectifier, which is typically a half-wave or full-wave rectifier using diodes, will not regulate the voltage of the DC output. It will simply convert the AC input to a pulsating DC output, which can vary in amplitude depending on the AC input and the diode characteristics.
2 Full-Wave Rectifier: Uses multiple diodes (typically four in a bridge configuration) to convert both halves of the AC waveform into DC.
A full-wave rectifier uses diodes arranged in such a way (often in a bridge configuration) to allow both halves of the AC waveform to contribute to the output, resulting in a smoother pulsating DC output compared to a half-wave rectifier.
When people refer to a "diode" in the context of rectification circuits, they are often referring to the role that diodes play in the rectification process.
Some Stators have a Rectifier Regulator All-in-One.
Steps to Identify a Rectifier Regulator All-in-One
Labeling: Look for labels or markings on the component. If it is indeed a rectifier regulator, it may be labeled as such. Common terms include "Regulator/Rectifier" or simply "R/R."
Physical Characteristics: These units are typically larger than a standard rectifier / diode
The following is a list to lest the rectifier .
Multimeter Testing for a Rectifier Regulator All-in-One.
AC Voltage Testing: With the engine running, check the AC output from the alternator (typically using AC voltage settings on a multimeter) before the component. You should get a rising AC voltage as the engine speed increases.
DC Voltage Testing: Measure the output voltage from the suspect component while the engine is running. If you get a stable DC voltage (usually around 12-14 volts) regardless of engine speed after the component, it's likely functioning as a rectifier regulator.
No Load Comparison: Check the voltage with and without load; if the voltage remains stable within the normal operating range under varying loads, it suggests regulation is also occurring
Check the part number of your rectifier or regulator and look for its specifications online or in a parts catalog. Most manufacturers provide documentation indicating whether a part is just a rectifier, just a regulator, or a combined rectifier regulator.
To determine if you have a rectifier regulator all-in-one for a Briggs and Stratton motor, look for labels, consult wiring diagrams, perform voltage tests, and check manufacturer specifications. This examination will clarify whether the part serves both the rectifying and regulating functions.
- Hi Max, I don't know why they make it so difficult, these charging systems have followed the same principle since they came up with alternators back in the sixties. Nothing unique about the Briggs setup, a stator and a rec/reg to direct power to the battery
- Hi Max, I don't know why they make it so difficult, these charging systems have followed the same principle since they came up with alternators back in the sixties. Nothing unique about the Briggs setup, a stator and a rec/reg to direct power to the battery
It all about saving a penny here and there. And also getting more money as we have to upgrade these charging systems.
You know its the guys with the pencils sharped on both ends.
Yes Briggs made it more difficult than it needed to be with about 30 different stators plus all the different wiring .
The easiest way to know what you have is to do a test or get the part numbers then do a search.
As far as I know with cars the RV1 Valiant from 1961 had Alternators and was told Holden EH had them but only as a heavy duty option and alternators were standard in the HD Holden.
Hi Max, I can't remember if the EH came out with an alternator, I have a feeling that it might have been the HD which came out with disc brakes as well, but the highly dangerous vent window that opened inwards that could catch your hand on the steering wheel if you weren't careful
I've never seen an original EH with a factory alternator but helped an auto elec rebuild alternators and starters a long time ago and remember him saying EH were the first Holdens with alternators.
I've also seen others that say it was an option on some EH cars.
Good review on the EH there Max. From what I remember the EJ even though it still had a grey motor it was fitted with the new style gearbox where you could leave the bell housing on and unbolt the box and fit a new clutch. Much easier to do than having to completely remove the box on the earlier models
Yes I remember the EJ alloy bolt on bell housing well Norm.
I had a good EJ box here ,they were so small, must have been the smallest Holden gearbox ever ,ended up throwing the gearbox out, couldn't find anyone that wanted it ,I did manage to get rid of a few earlier cast iron bell housing gearboxes though,the only non synchro first gear Holden gearbox I used in a vehicle was an EH 3 speed from a 179 which had bigger gears than the EJ box and I converted it to floor shift ,from memory I think the EH 3 speed was still the same gearbox used in HK.
It was a while ago Norm probably at least 10 years ago.
I don't think you will find too many people these days that would want a non synchro first 3 speed box , there is one listed for $50 now online it says EJ but is EH.
The wreckers was full of olld Holdens with recently reco motors and they sold complete motors for $50.,the V8 motors were the same price but mostly 253.complete RB30 motors were also $50.
Had a heap of old Holdens and just scrapped them as they weren't worth selling , people would give you cars for free or you could buy a complete car for $50.
I'm getting to the stage with these E/S Deutschers that it might be easier to just have them on $10 trickle charger all the time because how many times a year are they going to be used for cleaning up around under the fruit trees? Probably 3 times a year which means the battery will probably go flat between mows
Hi Max, I have a 12 volt system running through my house, it powers the smoke detectors the CO2 monitors, kitchen clock, street number out the front, light at the front door and a 12 volt pump in the garage downstairs as a back up if we loose power here and a high water alarm in the sump pit which alarms if the 12 volt pump activates. I have a battery each end of the house and they are on constant trickle charge, battery maintainer and have been for years now. The only time I had trouble with a battery overcharging was when I got smart and hooked it up to a solar panel. It worked fine until the controller stuffed up and cooked one of the batteries. That battery is still connected and works fine just powering my system but if I put any load on it it falls over. Anyway these little trickle chargers don't seem to overcharge the battery. I think they put out 1000 milliamps, which is probably what a battery looses just sitting these
So you just use a charger like the one below to maintain the batteries ,I need to get something to maintain a battery just not sure if to go solar or electric plug in.
I have heard some of the small solar charger panels only last 4 years.
Hi Max, I am using these chargers, have been using them for years with no problem. I have 5 of them hooked up running 24 hours a day with no issues at all and they use virtually no power at all and I monitor my power daily. The solar panel I set up was only a cheap Chinese thing and it only lasted probably 18 months before it went haywire and cooked the battery.
