OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Victa VC Mustang

Hi Guys,

Update!
Carb fully rebuilt and looking good however, we now have a intermittent spark, so looking at the points. Next problem.....we can not shift the nut on the flywheel to get to the points. We have tried using penetrating fluid, air impact guy, but its seized solid!

Anybody out there got any suggestions please?

A more powerful impact gun. It should zip off unless some prankster stuck a bead of weld there. Then you have the fan to remove. I suggest a three arm puller. I've broken a stubborn one using a two arm job.

First thing i would ask is which penetrating oil - if its just wd40 it wont do the job. something like RP90 or loctite freeze and release would give better luck. it is also a shoulder nut so soak around the nut as well as the thread.

I would forget about removing the fanwheel, forget about the points and condenser and just fit an ignition module. So much simpler and easier.

I'm totally with NormK there. It just requires one wire cut IIRC. Could you refresh our memory NK?

In a 1981 Victa catalogue they were actually featuring electronic ignition models as slightly more expensive than the points version of the 160 two stroke.

Hi MF,
you just cut the kill switch wire and connect the module into that wire. and earth the module body to the metalwork somewhere

Thanks guys...there is still hope!

Do we have a part number or preferred electronic ignition so I can search in the UK? Anything that could help would be appreciated guys.

Me, I just get one off a trashed Victa Powertorque engine as they outputted millions of the things.
That's how I got a side pull full crank going as it's module died.

Hi Tusk,
Problem is postage to the UK is cost prohibitive but you can try this bloke if you really want one. Thing is out here we get these 2 stroke mowers off the side of the road all the time.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/234632190585?

Positive update!!

We have managed to remove the nut and flywheel.

Set the point to 20 they were pitted and at 25!

Got a problem with the starter now as the drum is very worn so the pawl's are not gripping to turn the flywheel.......I have ordered a new one.

Keep you guys posted.

NormK came up with a solution to that as well by making vertical scribes inside the cup every 1cm or so to give the pawls something to grip.

Also there are washers in the starter shaft made of friction material a bit like brake shoe material that need to be placed in the right order with the other washers in order for the starter pawls to extend fully each time the cord is pulled.

As MF said, file slots in the cup all the way around the inside of the cup about 10mm apart and it will fix the problem, starter will never slip again