I�ve got a question about the full crank G4 carby governor. Where the vac line connects to the port on the cowling, the port is able to be twisted, I remember reading that this effects the max speed and how the governor picks up revs.
Assuming I start with the inside of the ports rubber protrusion looking like a �sad face� (sorry, that�s the best description I can give), does anyone know which way increases and which way decreases rpm? I had a quick go, but I couldn�t work it out.
Don't really know, never looked at the inside when i've adjusted them. It should make a notable difference at full throttle RPM when you turn it, either direction. If you get nothing, then you have to make some checks, is the diaphragm seated correctly?, bottom seal leaking?
I had a look today, it turned out the governor pipe itself was old and the end had enlarged (creating a vacuum leak) and making it rev much higher than it should.
I did start it, and it seemed better, however i left it too late and didn't have the chance to try the port direction. With a certain neighbor, if i turn on a lawn mower (or line trimmer) after 6 pm on Saturday, they decide they must mow their 'lawn' at 9:01 am Sunday morning. Line trimmer first, then leaf blower then Briggs engined mower.
No issues with any other neighbors though, so i suppose its not too bad.
Much better than those neighbor that wanted to play American football at 5-6 AM on Saturday and Sunday morning especially after I had been on the road all week working. I kinda like to sleep in on those days.
Well I got my point across one Saturday morning as I left before daylight, when an rented me a plane for a solo flight. I sneak in gliding in at minimum legal height when to full throttle and pull the nose up. You should them running over each other to find cover. They just didn't know who exactly who did it; they had their suspicions, but they didn't play football anymore except in the afternoons after that.
I can just imaging those neighbors running for cover. They deserve it - just plain rude to be playing football, or anything else that loud, at those early times.
I have been directly under an A380 (or maybe 747, anyway it was bloody big) only a few km from landing, the pilot was fighting heavy winds and absolutely floored it. I thought it was an earthquake Watching the little Cesnas, and twin prop planes coming in that day was also pretty interesting.
A380s are known for being remarkably quiet, though I think turbo fans have reached their zenith in the silence stakes. They won't ever achieve more silence. Fuel efficiency maybe.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Ok Tyler I just had a look at one I just pulled from a side pull full crank with a G4 carby, is it the correct position? I have no idea but I will do my best to describe it for you. . Looking at it the boomerang is towards the bottom of the cowl,facing away from the head end with the top edge of the boomerang slightly above being level with the top of the cowl. Sure it makes sense to me but not sure if it makes sense to you. Probably a bit too difficult to take a pic because it is all black inside. My son is over from NZ on Thursday so he will be able to put up a pic somehow if you need it.
Hi Tyler the boomerang should angle up to the hole and maybe the angle could be a little steeper. What it looks like is about 25 past 10 on a clock and the end of the cowl that sits over the head is to the right
I have got another side pull full crank out the back for parts, from curb side collection (straight fueled). The cowl is unbolted, so I will grab it and take a few photos of it. Your explanation is good, its just i haven't had a really good look at the bit from inside the cowl to understand fully.
Hi Tyler, that looks about 20 past 8, the one I have is turned further clockwise. I have no idea if this has any bearing on how it functions, I don't use them.
Hi Norm & hi Tyler, Norm, do you blank it off then? If so, How and why? Isn't it better to have the engine increase as it encounters tall grass, or is the system too temperamental and you prefer to increase revs yourself using the throttle? I used a late model Powertorque (10 years old or so) in someone's lawn and the governor was working well as the engine kept constant revs really well as it hit thicker grass.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
MF, all depends on the grass you are cutting, if you are just mowing a lawn you set the revs you need and that is all you need to do,long grass/jungle rev it up, push it in and back the revs off when you don't need them, not rocket science, and that was how Victa tamed the Australian back yards with the toe cutters. You drive a car, come to a hill you put your foot down, go over the top and you lift your foot back off.
G'day folks, Another data point pic of the control button position. This one's off a 1982-3 Mayfair Utility, 160cc full crank, side pull starter.
Tyler, the Victa Workshop Manual adjustment procedure is; 'Adjust the speed by pushing the vacuum control button in and turning it slightly clockwise or anticlockwise to obtain the recommended speed'. No clue as to which way should do what!
This is the speed at full throttle no load; 3500-3800 rpm for catcher mowers; 3500-4200 rpm for non-catcher. So a rev counter of some sort is needed to set this correctly. I use a simple 'vibration tachometer', as shown below.
The manual [and the G4/LM Service Bulletins on the ODK site] is silent on initial setup of the button.
The only possible clue to this, is the exploded pic in the manual, showing the control button components. This shows the button in the 'quarter to two' clockface position.
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
I just pulled out my full crank utility (which fired up first pull after sitting unused for about 9 months) and tried adjusting the governor - I found twisting the control button clockwise reduced engine speed, and anti clockwise increased engine speed. This was in my case anyway. Hope this helps.
I haven�t had a chance to have another look at it � spent last Saturday cutting down a tree, so I didn�t have any time to bring out the Victa. Tree went well � fell where I wanted it (and fortunately not on top of me ).
With regards to the governor, will it �reset� itself when turned beyond a point and starts the cycle again? Only thought of that possibility other day.
I will try turning clockwise �it was already running quick, and I didn�t want it to throw a con rod or blade or anything else if it revved harder. I�d trust experimenting with it if I had it a while and knew it well, but since I just picked it up, I don�t fully trust it yet.
Took 20 goes to start it the first time (probably fouled the plug with the bit of oil I put down the bore). Starts 1st or 2nd go now, so it can�t be too worn out � no scoring and the rings are good.
They really built them well. Unlike a lot of the stuff around now. I finally worked out those damn auto-chokes on Homelite and Ryobi line trimmers, so they start first or second go as well (that required slight modification though).
Thanks for the help, I will let you know how it goes.
Disconnected kill wires, still nothing - then it started to rain.
It has Super Start electronic ignition, and the powertorque stored next to it started first go, shed was a little damp, but not too bad.
I think the old Commando may have been a bit jealous of the new (used) mower I got the other day. 2003 Masport Maxicatch 550 with a Briggs Quantum XTS 60. $20 with catcher - stale fuel was the only issue. Although the blades are shot, and of course filthy oil, but strangely clean air filter and spark plug.
Tyler, the easy thing to swap over is the ignition module, the coil is not that easy because it is only fitted on the side pull models. Are you testing through the plug or off the end of the wire, could be plug?
Luckily, I have a side pull for spares (dont know if its points or electric ignition though) with good spark - but straight fuelled engine. Is there a difference between points and EI coils (besides having the EI module)? Its a mid 80s MSAA craftsman Standard with steel deck and nylon bush wheels - so probably points ignition.
Tried 3 different plugs in the Commando (just in case) and the wire to the block - didn't make a difference.
The HT lead is a bit short though - what do you use to bring them back to the required length?
Hi Tyler, side pull will be electronic, the ignition module is riveted under the plate, follow the wire from the coil. I would change the module first, they do fail. I rivet the module on the top of the plate to get a bit of airflow over it. Then test and see if you have spark, if not change the coil, and if you get spark you know where the problem is. As for the plug lead does it has the screw in the end with the rubber boot covering it? Even if you have a points ignition motor just ignore the points and fit a module and that saves all the points/condenser problems
Hi Norm and Tyler, Just as a side note, the early side cranks had points, the later ones had electronic ignition. That's why they all have the small hole in the block just under the coil to feed the kill wire out of. Either way, change the module and then the coil, and fit a module if it doesn't have one to eliminate the issues Norm has outlined. Cheers, Ted
Hi everyone my first post here and sorry to resurrect an old thread.
I just wondered if anyone can tell me if the so called governor control button shown on the previous page is the same part as is used on the PT engines.
Hi Dandare, I have never bothered comparing them because the F/C one goes through the sheetmetal cowl and the PT one goes through the cast iron in the base of a PT so the PT one will be longer and I'm not sure how it is clipped inplace
I just wondered if anyone can tell me if the so called governor control button shown on the previous page is the same part as is used on the PT engines.
No the governor vacuum pickup button is different but if you were desperate you could get the powertorque vac button to work in a full crank. Probably have to make a spacer washer then a bigger washer and Silastic it in.
I actually wanted to do it the other way round ie FC into PT as I had one from a Corvette handy. I did jury rig it in line but made no difference, maybe it's not the problem anyay.
Hi Dan, I'm not really sure but the original carby design had many design faults in it I'm thinking that Victa were just being too smart after long lunches at the pub. I had a bloke ring today saying his PT24 inch was constantly revving too high and this is a very common problem with the PT's don't hear much about F/C's having these problems. Trust me I don't spend a couple of hours modifying each carby for the hell of it and if I had a better way of making them reliable I certainly would
Watching the little Cesnas, and twin prop planes coming in that day was also pretty interesting. 
