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#107624 02/08/20 10:49 PM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 165
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
I found this 4.2L size fuel tin (left) in a kerbside rubbish pile and appears in sound condition with a tiny remnant of fuel at the bottom with some little bits of debris.
The 5 litre one on the right has a leak at the bottom which I found out the hard way after filling up at a Caltex! Fortunately I had a plastic box I was able to put it in until I got home.
I want to dispose of it but is it valuable on the collector's market?

PS: what's the best way to clean out the old fuel and debris on the bottom?

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IMG_20200802_210417-1000x564.jpg (68.3 KB, 54 downloads)
Last edited by Mowerfreak; 02/08/20 10:59 PM. Reason: Something I forgot.

Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
Moderator
G'day MF,

Most small bottom leaks in these cans can be easily repaired with soft solder, and a good soldering iron [not direct use of a flame torch].

I have a BP Zoom 25 can I need to get around to repairing, that will require use of an old timer soldering technique called 'a tinker's d_a_m'... grin

The underscores are just to get around the forum's auto censorship... crazy


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,674
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SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
Hi Mf ,Gadge and all,

The fuel tins look like they are worth about $20 .

The Victa tins from the fifties are about $50 for an average one.

Cheers
Max.

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victa mowerfuel tin eBay.png (67.31 KB, 27 downloads)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,675
Likes: 165
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi Gadge and maxwestern,

how thoroughly do you have to clean the surface on the outside and what about inside preparation if any?


Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
Moderator
G'day MF,

Not much prep you can do on the inside [there is a post-soldering internal passivation that's worth doing, which I'll go into later on]; but the outside surrounding the hole/s [say 5-6mm at least] has to be clean bare metal, free of rust, so that it can be 'tinned' with solder.

I guess I need to get onto my Zoom can job, and take pics as I go for a write-up... wink

I'll have to think a bit about what surface prep techniques to use/demonstrate, as I have some options available that most ODK'ers wouldn't have.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."

Moderated by  Bruce, Gadge 

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