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Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
Novice
Hi everyone

Is there any secret removing the bearing that sits on the intermediate adjustment bracket. The bearing on my machine has seen better days, but for the life of me I cannot seperate it from the bracket.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Regards

Foles[Linked Image]

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DSC_0851.JPG (317.69 KB, 51 downloads)

Celebrating 50 years of mowing lawns with my Scott Bonnar 45s

SB 17533
SB 18452
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,998
Likes: 16
Former Moderator
Honestly it shouldn't be that hard to remove it. They are generally not that tighter fit.

If you don't have any specialised bearing pullers all you need to do is stand the whole unit upright and clamp the bearing in the end of the jaws of a vice and then use either a brass drift or hardwood block on the shaft face and tap the shaft gently out of the bearing.

Just ensure you don't damage the shaft face.

Cheers,
BB.

PS. My preference would be to use a proper bearing puller though.


I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
Novice
Hi BB

I agree it shouldn't be that hard, but this bearing was well and truly stuck on the shaft. I did see on youtube that someone had to get their bearing "professionally removed".

My 100mm bearing puller would not work, as the 'legs' could not get under the bearing. I tried two wrecking bars - one on either side - and that did not budge it.

In the end I resorted to an old cold chisel inherited from my grandfather. With a considerable amount of effort I was able to slowly move the bearing, until I could use the wrecking bars to finally remove the bearing.

This was certainly one stubborn bearing.

Thanks for you advice.

Regards

Paul


Celebrating 50 years of mowing lawns with my Scott Bonnar 45s

SB 17533
SB 18452
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
Moderator
G'day folks,

Sounds like it had become 'rust-bound' to me. Rust occupies a lot more space [like ~7x, is the engineers' rule-of-thumb] than solid steel.

In heavy industrial situations, the usual solution is the 'gas axe', aka cutting torch, on the bearing.

Saw that done once by a really good operator [boilermaker], on a jaw type rock crusher main shaft roller bearing [~ 400mm bearing OD]; popped it off without making a mark on the shaft!

The 'wedging' technique, as Paul has used here, is also a good one, in this sort of situation. But it can be misapplied...


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
Novice
Thanks Gadge

As can be seen in the photo, the shaft was not heavily rusted.

While on the subject of the shaft, is it normal for the slot (keyway) to be at a 45 degree angle at the end? You can just make it out in the photo.

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IBA_shaft_02.jpg (51.52 KB, 21 downloads)

Celebrating 50 years of mowing lawns with my Scott Bonnar 45s

SB 17533
SB 18452
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,998
Likes: 16
Former Moderator
Yes that's standard.


I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.

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