G'day all
The main thing is to preserve the crankcase numbers.
The fact that the cylinder has moved 5mm is equivocal -
is it a result of the crankshaft turning to reach TDC;
or has the piston genuinely moved in the bore?
Blumbly's 'two-nut' approach is the conventional method
for removing studs - but that may not be the best option here,
given the objective of saving the crankcase and the extra-long
length of the studs (torsional issues); and the severe corrosion.
Stud extractor tools are used commonly if the 'two-nut' approach
doesn't work.
My best advice is the un-seizing of the piston-to-cylinder.
Both Gadge and Norm have expressed the view of timely chemical
treatment.
It may be that holding the engine cylinder in one hand and tapping
down with a hammer handle on the piston head will do the trick.
This seems to be a multi-strategy approach, and I feel all contributors
have given good advice; but the most gentle must be the chemical and
wait-and-see approach.
After your long sojourn, we may have to call Chuck Norris.
----------------------
Jack
