https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm Recent Posts en-us Mon, 09 Nov 2026 21:53:18 UTC 5 support@outdoorking-forum.com.au (OutdoorKing Repair Forum) UBB.threads https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/images/general/default/rss_icon.gif https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122535.html#Post122535
Some points of interest that might help with dating or just be for the sake of interest.

It looks to be Alpine Green with black side cover and handlebar plate.
It's got a brass dual name badge (model 450407) which in itself is interesting because another 14" frame i had with the same model number was also dual plate but was not brass.
It's got a cast iron clutch. Confirmed with a magnet but i didn't need to anyway because at some point in it's life it suffered some sort of injury near the cotter pin and has been brazed.
Speaking of cotter pins, it has a single cotter pin only. No secondary grub screw (unlike the aluminium clutch on my 14" daily driver).
It's running a Kirby Tecumseh HK25 (And it is running, although it wasn't when i got it).
The cutting reel bearings were the old style bearings that were open on one side.

Humorously the lever on the handlebars is held in place with a 1/4" bolt and two nuts.
Pretty sure that's not factory.

So with all of this info and things I've gleaned from these forums it's looking like this mower might be about 1975-76.

]]> Fri, 16 Oct 2026 02:42:38 +0000 looktall https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122535.html#Post122535 https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122478.html#Post122478 solution , but if you first need to buy an engine get one with the 20mm 5/8 shaft like Loncin or Lifan or Honda etc.

Cheers
Max.

]]> Sun, 26 Jul 2026 11:09:35 +0000 maxwestern https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122478.html#Post122478 https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122187.html#Post122187
I too have heard about the Facebook comments, and I do tend to agree with you regarding rip-offs. All of what I'm saying below on this topic--is "old hat"

My present SB Model 45 17" was purchased from them roughly 12 years ago. and at the time I got them to replace the original cylinder for a brand new 7 bladed one [Black in colour], which was then lathed as was the new bottom blade, and then adjusted to give a perfect match. It came with a Vintage 1977 B&S -- 3 HP, Model 80303 08339-01 77061001 engine on it. [See attached pic and you will be able to see the original B&S red paint, under the Black paint over-spray.] From memory, about AU$1,700 all up and delivery was free.

Suddenly, about 18 months later, the engine siezed for no apparent reason. It had the correct amount of oil, a brand new spark plug, and I looked after it well. I'm still in the process of slowly dismantling it [as time permits], to try and discover what went wrong. Also, finding the Manuals -- Operators & Exploding Parts, has proven to be next to impossible! When completed, my findings will be the subject of another post.

So, in essence, I ended up with a AU$1,700 mower without an engine. However, I can say that the back split-rollers, twin rails, clutch assembly, chains & sprockets, front roller, cylinder, nuts & bolts and catcher etc., are all still in first class condition, with no signs of rust, or dents, including beneath the side cover.

That's my experience of dealing with them...

mice-elf

]]> Tue, 17 Feb 2026 08:37:02 +0000 mice_elf https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/122187.html#Post122187 https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121969.html#Post121969
We pulled the reel and bearings today and both of them feel fine. They were replaced 2 years ago by the bloke who sharpened the reel and bedknife. They don't look like cheap bearings, they don't feel like cheap bearings but when spinning the reel under motor, one of them squeals. This thing has probably mowed ~20 times since they were replaced. Never seen moisture, always stored under-cover. It's weird. The bearings have standard size markers but no manufacturer details. I can only assume they were replaced with sub-par bearings.

I'm off tomorrow to my local bearing supplier to replace them with quality Japanese bearings and we'll see how we go. I might buy 4 and stick 2 on the shelf to replace in case the next sharpen has them replaced with "less than quality" units.

I'd like to get it sharpened, but my son seems hell bent on mowing without a thorough raking and we get the periodic "ting!". So I'll set it up with new bearings and that'll do for a while.

]]> Sun, 23 Nov 2025 11:58:20 +0000 Brad_C https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121969.html#Post121969 https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121951.html#Post121951
Regards
Tory

]]> Wed, 19 Nov 2025 02:32:24 +0000 ToryC https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121951.html#Post121951 https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121628.html#Post121628
]]> Tue, 22 Jul 2025 21:41:00 +0000 Bonnar_Bloke https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121628.html#Post121628 https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121627.html#Post121627
]]> Tue, 22 Jul 2025 21:36:41 +0000 Bonnar_Bloke https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121627.html#Post121627 https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121417.html#Post121417 I am also new here (6 years later than the OP).
I found this thread as I also was searching for the Air filter mount, as mine has identically split at the breather tube inlet.
Since I can't get a reasonably priced alternative, I am going to slather on some silastic.

Me:
I have a new (to me) 14" model 45, which going by the serial numbers on the plate and the engine, is likely a year-18months older than Andrew's.

Same 60102 motor (60102 0302 01 7005123) which I think means manufactured May 1970.
Scott Bonnar Serial# 45 18132

I bought it from a gent who had used it for the last approx 27years. And he'd bought it as a runner. So I suspect it has had close to 55 year's service!
I cut my lawn with it this morning before inspecting it further, all looks in great shape, only missing one reel adjuster nut, the handlebar plate, and it can breathe through the hole in the filter spacer. Motor starts second pull.

Will address the carby issues first, do another mow, then will tinker with it over winter.

]]> Fri, 25 Apr 2025 08:39:00 +0000 gemma_k https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121417.html#Post121417 https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121415.html#Post121415
Before I begin, have a look at [pics. 1 & 2].

I hope I can be of some help to you regarding this problem you have with your Hex. Lock-nut ¾" UNF [Unified Fine], Left Hand Thread.

To get at it, you will need to remove the damaged bearing housing completely, and the best way [and by far the easiest] is to use a bearing puller [see pic. 3]. The hole in the middle of the cylinder shaft surrounded by the red marking in your photo, is specifically there for this purpose, and also for use when your cylinder is being professionally sharpened using a lathe.

First though, remove the grease nipples then spray some WD40 into the holes. As for the alloy housing, you can use a large Stillsons wrench e.g. to try to gently rotate it, without causing any further damage.

Then, if it won't come off, you can use a bearing puller to remove it. Once it is completely off, you can then get the two parts welded together. The nut [see pics. 4 & 5] will be fully exposed and you should be able to get it off, remembering of course that it is a left handed thread nut, so you will need to turn it clockwise for removal. To prevent the cylinder from turning when you do this, place a stout piece of wood between the blades and your bench-top.

Regarding the bottom blade, once you have removed both alloy bearing houses, lock-nuts and bottom blade adjusters [see pic. 6] you should be able to take your cylinder and bed housing with the blade still on it, to a specialist and get them machined [i.e. both ground on a lathe, to get a perfect match]. Your bottom blade will need to be in pretty good nick though, for this to happen.

It is worth pointing out here that my bearings [see pic. 7] are sealed. They are [NSK 6304 V 845], and there is a Circlip [52mm INT] on each housing that holds them into place. I should also mention that these mowers, when they where first released over here, they had [NSE 6304], or the equivalent of, installed, which were sealed on one side only, and the idea was that the exposed side would sit tightly against the alloy holders wall, and you would use the grease nipples to lubricate them. Having said that, the grease nipples are still attached to my alloy housings, as they prevent any fine debris getting in, as this helps when it's maintenance time...

I hope this helps you get out of your predicament,

Cheers,

mice_elf

]]> Fri, 25 Apr 2025 08:08:45 +0000 mice_elf https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121415.html#Post121415 https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121234.html#Post121234
I have done a general search with no results.

I was hoping to find a bearing list for the Scott Bonnar 45 17" Single deck. I have found SB part numbers but was looking for a converted list of say SKF or Nsk part numbers
I wanted to do a bit of a cheat and order through work from our Bearing supplier

Is there also a bolt size list somewhere also?

Thanks in advance for any info or where I could look

]]> Tue, 25 Mar 2025 22:23:30 +0000 Nismo https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/121234.html#Post121234